24 Hours in Livno
The Hajji Ahmed the Ducat Minter’s Mosque in Livno // © Ajdin Kamber // Shutterstock
Wild horses! History! Mosques! The eternal calm of fields! A big lake! Wild horses! All this and more await in Livno, the administrative centre of the creatively named Canton 10, in the west of Herzegovina (but not West Herzegovina). Got 24 hours in Livno? Use them wisely.
A Morning With Mosques
We’re going for a walk in the morning, so do your stretches and limber up. The Hajji Ahmed the Ducat Minter Mosque is Livno’s finest and is found on the hill that looks over the town, although there was a time when the disparate houses on the hill were the town. This is where the Ottomans developed Livno, but today it houses friendly folks and lovely mosques. A fine combination, for sure. Wander up to see the Ducat Minter’s mosque, checking in on the three other mosques in the vicinity. There is also a pretty Orthodox Church and the Croatian Consulate, giving this a trifecta feel in Bosnia and Herzegovina if you’re doing the whole BiH Bingo thing. For the record, BiH Bingo is an awful idea. Still, all very pretty, but watch out for that one dog that might be a bear. Yes, there is a wall between him and you, but at some point, he will realise that he can smash through the wall.
More morning walking, but you can stop in the centre of town for a coffee or a tea if such things are required. Honestly, the cafes of Livno are all fairly identikit, and the coffee is the same everywhere. Sensation! has the obvious benefit of an exclamation mark, while Cristallo seems to be a popular choice for business types. Resist the temptation to have your coffee at the Pivnica because you’ll be there later.
Mosey a couple of kilometres out of town towards the Franciscan Museum and Gallery Gorica, a treasure trove of Livno history, art and culture. The exhibits cover a whole lot of ground and the whole thing takes pride of place as the town’s main tourist attraction. That is more than fine with me, although I doubt Livno cares about my opinion. Give yourself plenty of time to explore the entire complex, and get your souvenirs here.
The wild horses of Livno // © ZoranZoki // Shutterstock
An Afternoon Running With Horses
No matter how bad the proofreading job on the back of the buses might be, the wild horses of Livno are the main pull in this part of the world. Yes, a herd is very different to a heard. Still, horses are the opposite of dogs. First of all, horses are ace and dogs are rubbish, but second of all, horses are at their best when wild, whereas dogs are at their best when sufficiently domesticated. Livno’s wild horses are a sight to behold, joyously galloping through the plains as the big man upstairs intended, not a care in the world. You’ll need to drive out to the aforementioned plains to find them, of course, so head to the Krug plateau and hope for the best. Alternatively, get yourself on an official tour and bask in the magic of wild horses.
If wild horses aren’t your thing (I’m guessing you’re a dog person), head to nearby Buško Lake to look at a big ol’ body of water, glistening in the summer sun, renewing agricultural life in the surroundings and all the rest. If you head through Prisoje, you might even get to see a butcher hacking away at a cow. Cool? Depends, I guess. I love me some beef, but come on, there needs to be a limit.
© Pivnica Livno // Facebook
An Evening With Pivo
Okay, now you can go to the Pivnica. Livanjska might just be the most underrated city beer in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and both the light and mixed are well worth a sippin’. The Pivnica is right next to the main square too, has delicious pub food and an old fashioned Czech beer house sort of feel that should always be encouraged, especially if it exists outside of the grubby fingers of Prague 1.
As for sleeping, there aren’t a huge number of options, but that’s okay. Hotel B&M ticks all the boxes, so save yourself the worry and stay there, converse with the excellent staff and enjoy the fine food available in the restaurant. Or, alternatively, give up human life to go and run with the wild horses. The choice is yours.
If you’ve been eaten by the bear-dog in the old part of town, I am sorry.
