Brčko city guide — John W Bills

Elephant in the room, don’t beat around the bush. Brčko is Bosnia and Herzegovina’s third entity, a free district not tied to the Federation or RS. Why? Well, look at where it is. It is the gap between the two sections of RS. It was predominantly Bosniak before the war (55%), but the war was the war, and it was a sticking point in the peace negotiations to end it. Both sides claimed it as their own. The solution? Make it a third entity, a free district, a Bosnian Augsburg, if you will.

To most visitors, that doesn’t really mean much. What is important is that the town has gorgeous buildings (the city hall is stunning), a darling location on the Sava, some brilliant pubs and the best hotel breakfast in the country.

TRANSPORT

Oh, Brčko, that bus station (Zelježnička, +387 49 215 657). Not good, not good. Brčko is a well-connected city, one of the few that has direct buses to various spots in the Federation (Sarajevo, Tuzla, Mostar, Zenica and others) and Republika Srpska (Banja Luka, Bijeljina, Istočno Sarajevo). There isn’t much at the station besides a ticket window and a cafe. It is also 2km from the town centre, a 20-minute walk depending on your average walking speed.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Vijećnica

Brčko’s City Hall is an absolute beaut, one of the most aesthetically impressive in BiH. Constructed in 1892, this beauty predates its big brother in Sarajevo, and you can see the influence with the gorgeous sand-washed colours and Moorish architectural hints. The building is symmetry in action, all intricate angles and vibrant colours. It serves as the centre of city administration in Brčko, but, come on, you aren’t here to worry about signing papers and photocopying. Look at it, take it in, enjoy it. Trg Robertsa B. Owena 1, +387 49 490 008

War Monuments

Brčko is best known for being a free city, although that doesn’t mean a whole lot, just that it was key during the Dayton discussions that brought the war in BiH to an end and thus exists as its own district, not in the Federation of BiH and not in Republika Srpska. It is home to all three of BiH’s constituent ethnicities, although to say the place is all mixed together would be wrong. The town is unique because it has three separate monuments to remember the war, one for each group. It is what it is.

© Wirestock Creators // Shutterstock.com

Fountain of Youth

One of the wackiest city symbols you’re going to come across, that’s for sure. Brčko’s Fountain of Youth needs some repairs, but the statue it is famous for will live on forever, at least in the minds of curious travellers who venture to these parts. It is of a young girl holding the tail of a fish or using a fish as some steering rudder, or maybe the two are coming together to create some sort of Megazord-esque superpower.

Mosques

The riverside Atik-Savska Mosque is the most famous in the town and, understandably so, originally a wooden mosque that was expanded and developed over time and is now a genuine national monument. It is the oldest mosque in town, hence the ‘Atik’ part of the name. The White Mosque is certainly not old, but it might be the most impressive in town. The mosque is surrounded by the greenery of the main park in Kolubara (a part of town, not a type of bird) and is bloody massive, complete with mekteb and all the rest. You can’t miss it, seriously.

Palestine Palace

The Palata Palestina is a beautiful building by the town’s green market, but this building is for lookin’ only. This Neo-Renaissance stunner often gets top billing on the list of ‘Brčko’s Most Beautiful Buildings’, and while I’m still giving it to the Vijećnica, the Palestine Palace is a more than worthy adversary.

Partisan Memorial Cemetery

It doesn’t get as much press as some of its spomenik counterparts (it doesn’t really get any press), but Brčko’s Partisan Cemetery is a fascinating piece of history, remembrance and modern-day neglect. The busts of several Partisan fighters (all of whom have their eyes closed) are found in front of pockmarked gravestones in a hulking concrete necropolis, not huge but impactful nonetheless, with a single warrior standing above. Svete Ristića Svračeta

Sacred Heart Church

The only Catholic Church in Brčko, The Sacred Heart Church (a fairly loose translation) is found just a short walk from the centre of town and has been a staple here since 1861. The bell tower is one of the finest outside of Herzegovina for all you bell tower enthusiasts. The church also looks pretty darn excellent in the fog.

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Brčko has no shortage of cafes. This is Bosnia and Herzegovina, after all, but not too many of them stand out in any particular way. Cafe Corso (Trg Mladih, +387 65 750 000) is the best of the cafes on the main square, with a comfortable interior and a vaguely Habsburg feel, while Elti (Bosne Srebrene 16, +387 49 490 095) takes the prize for the main pedestrian drag. Brčko is shockingly good for beer, shockingly good, I tell you. First up, we’ve got Pub Up (Jovana Dučića 1, +387 66 979 704), and what it lacks in cheerful staff, it makes up in inexpensive and well-poured pivo. Pivnica Silver Wings (Bulevar Mira, +387 66 771 731) is excellent; I had a super good evening here with a jiujitsu brown belt and a trainee priest. Tri Sobe (Bulevar Mira, +387 63 285 203) ticks all the boxes too. Laufer (Dobriše Cesarića, +387 66 602 384) is the town’s craft beer; you can get it in a surprisingly large number of places (and you can also visit the brewery, but give them a call in advance).

Brčko will surprise you on the ‘putting things into your digestive system’ front. Wait, what? Anyway, restaurants, lots of options, all of them good. I ate at Marko Polo (Svetoga Save, +387 65 293 829) on my first night and was immediately impressed by how busy and efficient it seemed. I ate some seriously good ćevapi at Palma 2 (+387 49 216 175) down by the river, the sort of ćevapi place that doesn’t have wifi, barely has a menu, doesn’t have ice and will cook the meat right in front of you. The best type of ćevapi place. Just outside the city (well, 7km or so, actually) is Bakarni Lonac (Plazulje bb, +387 49 305 040), a super popular hotel and restaurant that will serve you quite massive portions of grilled meat in a rustic setting with an excellent selection of regional wines.

SLEEPING

I love a big, sweeping statement and am about to make one. Hotel Jelena (Bulevar Mira 5, +387 49 232 850) makes the best hotel breakfast in Bosnia and Herzegovina. If that isn’t reason enough to stay there, I don’t know what is. The staff are friendly, and the beds are comfortable if you need more convincing. Vila Bakarni (Vuka Karadžića 37, +387 49 411 411) is another good option in the city centre.

BRČKO