24 Hours in Banja Luka

Without sounding like a grumpy goose, most of the cities covered in this massive love letter are easily traversed in 24 hours. You can spend more time in all of them, obviously, but don’t get lost in thinking you need to spend days in the places. I once spent five days in Foča, which was pleasant enough, but the town was sick of me by the end of the week. Alas, Banja Luka requires more than 24 hours to do properly, but the beggars of lore were not known for their freedom to choose. Here’s the perfect day in Bosnia and Herzegovina’s second-largest town.

Morning

Spend the morning getting to know the centre of Banja Luka, by which I mean wander around for ages until you think you’ve got your bearings. The centre isn’t huge, this ain’t Tehran, but it does have numerous side streets hiding little cafes and the like. You’ve got plenty of choices for that first coffee of the day, so it depends on what you’re after. Looking for something with character and a great view of the mosque? Head to Eklektik. Cafe Yoko, Kadar and Ciglana are all excellent options in their own right, as is Rotkvica. You can’t go wrong, really.

Coffee devoured, you can set about seeing the sights. If you did plump for Eklektik as a coffee stop, that puts you in prime position to check out the Ferhat Pasha Mosque, destroyed during the war and subsequently rebuilt, a mosque named after the man who originally built the city. Kastel Fortress is nearby, one of the symbols of the town, and you’ll have to pass the uber-romantic and very sad monument to lovelorn Safikada to get there.

Then back to the centre of the centre’s centre, to consider the huge and rather beautiful Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, Banski Dvor Cultural Centre, the City Museum and the city’s Contemporary Art Gallery. The museum might not have working lights, but it does have a detailed history of the town (along with some great taxidermy and a horrifying Jasenovac exhibition), while the latter is always showing something special. I went to a Željko Opačak exhibition there once, it was wonderful.

Afternoon

There are plenty of options for lunch in Banja Luka, and all of that will depend on what you’re searching for. If you like burgers and steaks, Kodiak is excellent (and has a non-smoking section upstairs). If you want the best pizza (okay, pinca) that I’ve ever eaten, jump a cab and head out to Impero Romano. Actually, what am I talking about, you should absolutely jump a cab and head out to Impero Romano. Did you not read what I just wrote? BEST PIZZA I’VE EVER EATEN.

Impero Romano is also in the right direction for the afternoon’s activities. When you’ve had your fill of pinca, head to Banja Luka’s Trappist Monastery, the Marija Zvijezda Convent. You might not be able to get in (this is still a living, breathing monastery), but the history is fascinating and the little shop holds its own. There is an abandoned power plant nearby that lovers of sinister tourism should check out, before nipping up to the Nektar brewery for a tour and some crisp lager.

Evening

You can eat at Lovački Bar if you want to stay in this part of town a little longer, but I’m all for returning to the centre and heading to Mala Stanica. The old station is a shoo-in whenever someone tries to tell you the best restaurant in town, and it gives you a prime spot for heading into the city for some excess afterwards. Of course, culture vultures might be interested in a showing at the theatre, so check the schedule to see if anything ticks your box. If you’d rather just drink beer, head to Mac Tire Pub and settle in for the evening. Eschew Nektar in favour of delicious Gorštak, a craft beer from nearby Laktaši that deserves all the love. I’m not sure about the mint one, but that’s just one. Be sure to stop around Krajina Trg to see all the beautiful people meeting up, while Petar Kočić Park (across the road) is named after a poet with a fantastic moustache. Seriously, a real bush.

There are loads of things missing here. When it comes to morning coffee, Kafeterija 5 might take the crown for the best coffee in the city. The same goes for the evening, where Master Craft Brewery serves up some of the finest pales ales and craft lagers in the country. Energetic visitors should consider ambling up Banj Brdo to check out the spomenik (well, the views, more importantly), while lovers of street art should head to Borik and start searching for the murals. Banja Luka has so much to offer but gets bugger all in terms of attention, but hey, that means there is more room for us.

Morning

Afternoon

Evening

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