24 Hours in Višegrad

The magnificent bridge in Višegrad // © Rcav // Shutterstock.com

24 hours in Višegrad, nema problema. You could spend the whole day in the town, obviously, but there are a couple of sites outside the metropolis (12,000 or so people) that are worth a gander, so get some wheels and get going. We’ll start outside. If you want to stick in Višegrad all day long, just drag out the Andrić stuff. There’s no shortage of it, after all.

Dobrun Monastery, just outside Višegrad // © Nenad Basic // Shutterstock.com

Morning

Some 12km or so outside of Višegrad is Dobrun Monastery, a hella peaceful Orthodox monastery with a story to tell. Constructed in the 14th century, Dobrun faced utter obliteration under the weight of the Nazi onslaught during WWII, but greater powers (as in miracles, not the Greater Powers) prevailed, and somehow the place survived. The monastery is still active today, so be respectful when you visit. Also, look out for the statue of Karađorđe in the hills. Head a further 9km towards the Serbian border to check out the Vardište Memorial Complex, a small cemetery for soldiers killed during World War I.

You’ll have to drive a solid 30km to our next stop, but you’re heading to some artistic miracles, so quit whinging. Head for the village of Žlijeb and ask for directions to the Pisana Stijena, the Written Rock, where curious hooked inscriptions are found on seemingly isolated walls. Nobody is entirely sure what they mean, why they are here or even how they were created, but that allows you to make up your own theories. The truth is out there, after all. They say the river will flood again when the drawings are gone. Maybe it was a shrine, but it certainly offers great views of the valley with one poetic house in the middle. Maintaining the theme of the morning, the nearby Trševina Memorial Complex pays respects to soldiers killed fighting in World War II.

The Princip mural in Andrićgrad. Make of it what you will // © Tatiana Popovic // Shutterstock.com

Afternoon

Okay, back to Višegrad proper to dive deep into the waters of Ivo Andrić. Start at Andrićgrad, the slightly bizarre (but also quite impressive) brainchild of cinema’s Enfant terrible, Emir Kusturica. Its 2014 construction was shrouded in controversy, but it has developed into the main focus of modern Višegrad. Višegrad has seen plenty of history, and most of it is remembered here. Most of it. Some of the murals are a little wacky, but there we go. Nip into Goya for a jolt of caffeine before heading back towards the actual centre of town, stopping at Kruna for a traditional lunch.

There is masses of Andrić in Višegrad, and the reality is you’ve come here to see the bridge. Višegrad’s City Gallery will give you a solid introduction to modern art in the area, and the museum’s curator will give you a few hints as to where you can find more Andrić in the town. There are murals everywhere, while the nearby Ivo Andrić Memorial Classroom is a fascinating insight into the early education of the great writer. The City Library also has an Andrić corner, so prepare to feel inspired.

A quite magnificent bridge // © sarenac77 // Shutterstock.com

Evening

You’ve done well to hold off, so perch near the Mehmed Pasha Sokolović Bridge and consider the day done. This is the bridge that inspired Andrić’s iconic Bridge on the Drina masterpiece, and Hotel Višegrad has a terrace with an excellent view. What more is there to do other than stare at it? Consider the history, often celebratory, often grim. Head across the thing and mosey down towards Anika for dinner, where good food and better views combine for a darling dining experience. You’ve come here for the bridge, so make the most of it.