24 Hours in Zenica

It feels difficult to write about Zenica without also talking about industry, and it is nigh on impossible to write about it in a tourist sense without using words like ‘neglected’ and ‘unappreciated’. When I was last there, for instance, the hotel reception had no materials for Zenica, only brochures for Tešanj and Čardaci. Now, I’m not going to change this with the power of a single post, but hey, hope dies last. Zenica is a fascinating town with something different to offer from the rest of the country, and that is why you should give it at least 24 hours of your time. At least.

An aerial view of Vranduk and the surroundings // © Ajan Alen / Shutterstock

Morning

As seems to be the trend with these 24 hours pieces, head outside the city for the morning. You’ll probably stay at Carpe Diem, so enjoy your breakfast and coffee before hitting the road and staying on it for approximately 13.5 kilometres until the impressive expanse of Vranduk Fortress shimmers into view. You can see why the medieval Bosnian Kingdom decided to build the thing here in the 14th century, although back then, the placing above the Bosna river was more for security purposes than tourism. We live in luckier times. Vranduk had a reputation for being a difficult spot to travel, where the most stringent of checks were put in place as travellers and traders tried to traverse the territory. Alliteration, baby! The drama of the Bosna river is arguably the highlight, although the old-fashioned displays inside certainly hold their own.

Back to Zenica once you’re done, to explore the industrial capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Does that make it the Manchester of BiH? Maybe, just maybe. The afternoon will be spent in the City Museum, but pay attention to a nearby house first and foremost. Sat directly opposite the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, the Hadži Mazića Kuća is a seemingly innocuous black and white house that contains history in its walls. More specifically, the old house was where negotiations were held to stop Austria’s march towards Sarajevo. You can’t go in as it stopped being a part of the City Museum in 1992, but look at the thing and have a good old think about what you’re doing.

Zenica’s museum is one of the best in the country // © John Bills

Afternoon

Some lunch before the City Museum? Strangely for a city of this size, Zenica doesn’t really have any standout options on the food front. It is much of a muchness, so nip into Restoran Maida Opatija for a quick lunch and then get ready for the culture. The restaurant is super close to the museum, which is good news.

The museum happens to be one of the most comprehensive in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The entire history of the area is told, covering everything from medieval Bosnian lords to the industry of the 20th century and beyond. There is an exhibition of 20th-century technology too, waiting among floors and floors of history and culture. You can see all the usual ethnographic nods, along with a deep dive into traditional Bosnian embroidery. Did I mention that this place was comprehensive? Hella comprehensive.

Them’s some tall buildings // © Adiss Alic / Shutterstock

Evening

What to do with the evening? As non-committal as it is, wander around Zenica and get a feel for the architecture of the place. Sure, the big towers take most of the attention, but the city’s old centre is a charming collection of colourful buildings that belies the usual grim adjectives thrown the way of this city. Excellent cafes and bars are waiting here too, none better than the delightfully Bohemian Bonaparte, with its fairly lights and book-filled walls.

Come to think of it, I had a really good pizza in Zenica. It was at Pizzeria Corner if memory serves. Other Italian staples are available, so pig out to your heart’s desire. It is also nearby to some more examples of Zenica’s architectural ensemble before completing the circle that will take you to the open-brick comforts of Cozy Pub. Bar food is also available here, by the way.