TOMISLAVGRAD city guide

Tomislavgrad surprised the heck out of me. I don’t know what I expected, but I didn’t expect a bustling little town of stone houses, tangible history, buzzing cafes and a bus station that conjures up memories of Mudvayne. Much like the members of Mudvayne, Tomislavgrad is also known by its Yugoslav-era name; Duvno. The Romans called it Delminium, medieval Croatia and Bosnia referred to it as Županjac, and its current moniker was first introduced in 1928. All good and well, but it isn’t as if you are wandering around asking people about the town’s name, so focus instead on the stone buildings that give a sense of the nearby sea.

TRANSPORT

I believe it was Kud who once said, ‘I am everything, and I am nothing’, and Tomislavgrad bus station (Kralja Zvonimira) was obviously paying attention to LD50 all those years ago. There is something excellent about the station, possibly its size, perhaps the proud yellow text telling you exactly where you are, maybe it is the cafe called Penguin. Despite this, nothing seems to work, the town isn’t particularly well connected, and the toilets are perennially locked. I hereby predict that one day, Tomislavgrad will have a top-five bus station in Bosnia and Herzegovina. That day is not today.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Franciscan Monastery & Museum

Another gorgeous Franciscan Monastery in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Tomislavgrad’s Franciscan Friary is a relatively modern creation. It was built (along with the Church of St Nikola Tavelić) in the early 20th century, with work starting in 1924 and being completed in 1940, just in time to be severely damaged by Allied bombing in World War II. You can’t keep a good Franciscan Monastery down; we know that, reconstruction was completed in 1987 before the 21st century brought extensions and further developments. It is relatively standard architecturally, ticking the Romanesque box and shimmering in its simple grandiosity, but all these are good things. It is a gorgeous building in a delightful setting. Croatian architect Stjepan Podhorsky was the architect, if you were wondering. The Franciscan Museum, Gallery and Library are nearby. Trg fra Mije Čuić 1, +387 34 356 800

King Tomislav Monument

You don’t need me to tell you that Tomislavgrad takes its name from King Tomislav, the first King of Croatia, but you might require me to inform you that the town hosted Tom’s coronation in 925. Okay, not the city, but a field nearby, and it isn’t agreed upon by historians, but I’m running with it. A statue of King Tomislav stands in the town centre, paying homage to the forefather of Croatian politics and nationhood. Mijata Tomića

Čaršija Mosque

Also known as the Džudža Džafer Mosque, Tomislavgrad’s central mosque stood peacefully in this spot for nearly 400 years, even surviving the war relatively unharmed until it was attacked in 1997. The mosque was restored to its former glory, although the real magic lies behind the closed doors. The mosque’s interior is gracefully intricate, all soft flourishes that go unnoticed until time is spent, with the ceiling proving particularly striking. Džudža Džafer? Not too much is known about him, not even whether Džudža was his real surname or merely a nickname, it being the Bosnian word for ‘dwarf’ and all that. The keeper of the mosque lives next door, and will almost certainly invite you inside if you are friendly and linger long enough. 84 years young, to say the least.

© Facebook / Tomislavgrad kroz fotografiju

Veliki Samograd

Looking for a sinkhole? Tomislavgrad has just the thing. Located just 10 minutes (driving) southwest of the city, Veliki Samograd is a natural phenomenon, a deep sinkhole that is oval-shaped and largely unexplained. Dimensions? 19m long, 100m wide, between 40 and 60 metres deep. Big, for want of a more complex term, and the name tells you as much as is known. Veliki means big, and Samograd means ‘self-made city’, loosely. A small cave is at the bottom of the hole, although that is only for the bravest explorers. You can’t get up to it by car, so drive the 6km and hike the rest.

Buško Lake

Buško Lake is bloody massive, a vast body of water stretching across both Livno and Tomislavgrad municipalities. Why is it here in the Tomislavgrad section, you ask? Well, most of it is in Tomislavgrad, and Livno already has enough on its tourist plate. The lake is artificial, created from water drained from the karst area, and has developed into a comfortable home for a broad range of scaly beasts like carp, trout and CHUB. Yes, CHUB should always be spelt with all caps. The name loosely means ‘Muddy Lake’, a reference to the farmland that covered this place before the lake was created. Keep an eye out for the winsome bridge next to the main transport bridge, by the village of Prisoje.

Ottoman Cemetery

It isn’t exactly a showstopper, but I must mention it nonetheless. A small Ottoman (presumably) cemetery sits quietly in a small burrow close to the monastery, remarkable only in how unremarkable it is. But don’t you think that is a little weird? I guess people are buried here, far from home, destined to rest as traffic shuffles by. There aren’t many headstones, but they are noticeable. The colourful mural only adds to the scene, a conveyor belt of animals from fish to bird to mammal.

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Renome (Mijata Tomića 100, +387 34 354 010) is an excellent modern cafe and restaurant in the town centre, a sophisticated spot with good coffee and tasty burgers and cornflake chicken, which always gets a thumbs up from your humble fabulous. Pauk (Mijata Tomića, +387 63 166 623) takes care of the beverage side of things, a small but perfectly formed joint with pictures of movie and music icons adorning the walls. American licence plates hung everywhere, that kind of spot. Gradska Kafana (Kraljice Jelene 5, +387 63 492 139) and Bubbles (Kralja Zvonimira 5, +387 63 282 614) are also decent shouts.

SLEEPING

Hotel Tomislav (Mijata Tomića 124, +387 34 356 210) is in the town centre, a short walk from the bus station and most of Tomislavgrad’s main attractions. It has an old-fashioned feel, so get ready for some healthy nostalgia to go with all your dreams and snores.

TOMISLAVGRAD