DONJI VAKUF

Donji Vakuf holds a special place in my heart. I’m not 100% sure why, but it does. This is the real heart of Bosnia and Herzegovina, home to one of the country’s best bus stations, a gorgeous mosque, some delicious veal, and plenty of history. Much of that history is lost, but prevailing wisdom agrees that it was founded by Malkoč-beg (the first Ottoman governor in these parts). The town changed its name several times (Fakvi-ziv, Donji Novi, among others) and has always been a magnet for artisans, traders, merchants, and officials. A good buddy of mine says the town moves, as it seems to be on every bus route. I’m not going to argue.

TRANSPORT

As anyone who has ever heard me talk about bus stations will know, Donji Vakuf’s stanica (770. Slavne brdske brigade, +387 30 201 560) is one of the best in the country. It has practically everything one could want from a bus station in Bosnia and Herzegovina: a cafe, a toilet, working (and free) Wi-Fi, a nearby supermarket, a faded facade hinting at better days, and an easy-to-use timetable. The cafe is excellent if you are into warts-and-all windows into real life.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Blue Mosque

When the sky is blue, the dome of Donji Vakuf’s central mosque is the most beautiful sight in Bosnia. That is a big statement, but there is something about the blue-on-the-blue beauty that stirs the soul into melodies of unbridled joy. The first mosque was constructed in 1572, with Ibrahim-beg Malkoč (son of a celebrated Ottoman Bosnian military officer) supposedly at the helm. As you probably guessed, the mosque was renovated, rebuilt and reconstructed over the years, unveiling its latest incarnation in 2000. That blue, my oh my, what a magical blue. 14 Septembar bb.

Sahat Kula

On a small hill (seriously, I walked up it) above Donji Vakuf is the town’s Clock Tower. What better place for a clock tower? Back in the day, the people of Donji Vakuf could glance up at the hill to see if it was time to pray, go home, or do whatever. The tower dates to the 18th century, but the original bell went back further, being made in Venice (or Carinthia) centuries before it was brought to Donji Vakuf. There isn’t a bell now, of course, and there isn’t even an old-fashioned clock face, these being digital times. The clock was kept on time by a digital signal from Frankfurt, although the clock didn’t work at all between 1917 and 1952. Does that mean Donji Vakuf did without time for 35 years? I can neither confirm nor deny that.

Memorial Park

Donji Vakuf serves up a two-for-one on the memorial monument front, with a small park on the side of the road between the bus station and the town centre. One monument honours those who died defending the town during the most recent war, while an altogether more grey structure is dedicated to the Partisans of World War II. A small stream runs next to the park, but the stream has seen better days, and the same can be said for the buildings next to the park. I’m a big fan of 2 + 2 = 5 graffiti; that is always fun. The Bosnian War memorial is gorgeous in its own way, with the names of men listed along with quotes and other displays of remembrance. 770. Slavne brdske brigade

Church of St. Teresa

Constructed in 1934, Donji Vakuf’s central Catholic Church (Crkva svete Male Terazije to you, buddy) is a catholic church in the centre of Donji Vakuf. There really isn’t much else to say. The church goes about its business across the road from the monuments and small park. 770. slavne brdske brigade

Church of the Assumption of the Holy Mother God

Without meaning to repeat myself, Donji Vakuf’s central Orthodox Church (Crkva Uspenja Presvete Bogorodice to you, buddy) is an Orthodox Church in the centre of Donji Vakuf. This church stands opposite the Blue Mosque, with restrained red trim accentuating its cream walls. The church was constructed in 1888 and came through the last war with minimal damage, although it seems to be constantly undergoing renovations. Vrbaska bb.

Prusac

The darling village of Prusac will get its own fancy guide in time, but for now, it must sit patiently under the umbrella of its parent municipality. On the surface, Prusac echoes the feel of many similar villages around the country, with its gorgeous views and harmonious mosques, but there is more to this than meets the eye. Prusac is home to Ajvatovica, the annual celebration widely considered the largest Islamic cultural and traditional gathering in Europe, a coming together of thousands to celebrate the miracle of Ajvaz-dedo and water coming from stone. For 51 weeks of the year, Prusac is a sleepy village with monuments, mosques and marvellous panoramas. It comes alive in a blur of heritage and history for one week at the end of June.

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Donji Vakuf isn’t renowned for its heady nightlife, so don’t get yourself in a lather expecting a booze-filled night of mischief. The bus station (770. Slavne Brdske brigade, +387 30 201 560), that’s where you should go, although don’t expect an Instagram-worthy night of pop hits. Old dudes drinking beer, that’s what you’ll get. On the food front, Orhideja (Jaz bb, +387 30 333 967, orhidejas@gmail.com, see below) is the place to go. My favourite restaurant in Bosnia and Herzegovina? Possibly. The pizzeria in the town centre is fine, but pizza aficionados should head 9km north to Di Casa (Oborci, +387 30 261 402), just outside the village of Oborci. Coffee? Camel Caffe (14. Septembar 66) is friendly with a delightful outdoor section, while Galerija (14. Septembar, +387 61 143 724) is a Donji Vakuf classic with photos of the town covering the walls. I had a good coffee at Eko-Dijamant (Žrtava genocida u Srebrenici) when I was first in town, a coffee accentuated by a conversation with the owner about Bosnia’s pessimistic future and rose-tinted past. She gave me a calendar packed with photos of Josip Broz Tito. Good times, good times. I have it on good authority that Etno Selo Semešnica (Pribraća, +387 61 154 289) is also fantastic, and the pictures suggest so. Soon, buddy, soon.

SLEEPING

Orhideja (Jaz bb, +387 30 333 967, orhidejas@gmail.com) is the only game in town, although that isn’t something to be read with sadness. This charming motel and restaurant on the city’s edge has a lovely setting and serves up (quite literally) the best veal I have ever eaten. I don’t think Hotel Vrbas (14. Septembar, +387 61 447 438) functions as a hotel anymore, but it certainly does as a cafe and venue.