DISPATCHES
Široki Brijeg // Stop Talking So Loud
If I am going to find God anywhere, I dare say I will find him in West Herzegovina. A day in Široki Brijeg, with uncouth grasshoppers and the ubiquitous presence of eternity.
Orašje // Water from the Same Source
There is a lot of struggle in travel, but every now and then, a fog is lifted. In Orašje, for the briefest moment, everything was okay.
Kulen Vakuf // That Schopenhauer Quote About Happiness
Kulen Vakuf is the biggest town within Una National Park, but that is a pretty liberal use of the word ‘biggest’. Dive into history, violence, happiness.
Stolac // He Can’t Stop Laughing
The Čaršija is the place to be in Stolac, especially if you are a male with a predilection for morning coffee and loud conversation.
Fojnica // The Amazing Intelligence of Crows
Crows are incredible animals, but they don’t make for great travel writers. A morning at the monastery in Fojnica, filled with history, books and failure.
Konjic // A Bridge, A Museum, A Beatle
For years, I have referred to the bridge in Konjic as the ‘George Harrison of Bridges in Bosnia and Herzegovina’. I have no idea why.
Ključ // The Inherently Pessimistic Last King of Bosnia
In hindsight, the Last King of Bosnia was a pessimistic name. The story of Stjepan Tomašević, Ključ, and the end of a kingdom.
Tuzla // With Your Ghost Right Next to Me
There is very little about Bosnia and Herzegovina in this one, but that might make it the most BiH of all these pieces. What if the best version of you isn’t all that impressive?
Zvornik // The Drill Drills On
Zvornik is a border town, and border towns are places of emotional purgatory. And drills. Too many drills.
Kiseljak // The Water Before You is Somehow Special
Kiseljak is famous for one thing, and you can thank Josip Bać for that. He didn’t invent kisela voda (obviously), but he made sure everyone was aware of how awesome it is.
Sarajevo // When Gavrilo Met Franz
On June 28, 1914, Gavrilo Princip met Franz Ferdinand in Sarajevo. The rest, as they say, is history.
Međugorje // Greater Love Hath No Man than to Fashion his God into a Cigarette Lighter
I tried hard not to be cynical, but neurotic commercialisation is inspiring. The story of the undeniable miracle of Međugorje.
Gornji Vakuf // Overstayer
I didn’t expect Gornji Vakuf to conjure up thoughts of worth and purpose, but I don’t make the rules.
Goražde // Our Colour Green
The view across the Drina in Goražde is one of the most stunning in BiH, no matter which bank you find yourself standing on.
Stolac // Slabs of Shapes and Sizes
3km outside of Stolac lies the most famous of BiH’s stećci necropolises. Necropoli? Who knows. Either way, these medieval tombstones are fascinating.
Visoko // Clay as Oxygen; or How to Save Art from Oblivion
In a small village near Visoko, Vahid Ohran is single-handedly saving hand-crafted pottery from oblivion. Respect your craft, people.
Banja Luka // Ferhadija Mosque and a Rhythm Section
Banja Luka was built around the magnificent Ferhadija Mosque, but what does that have to do with bass, drums and a toe-tapping rhythm?
Vogošća // Tell My Imaginary Wife I Will Be Home Late
A manic piece about a night out in Vogošća, punctuated by worries about my imaginary family and a nod of respect for Hal Robson Kanu.
Ostrožac // The Berks in the Castle
The most beautiful ruined castle in all of Bosnia and Herzegovina, the story of Ostrožac is the story of a family of Berks.
Kakanj // Friday Night in Kakanj
Anyone can go out in Sarajevo and have a good time, but what is a Friday night like in Kakanj? You might be surprised. You might not.