Konjic city guide — John W Bills

Where Bosnia kisses Herzegovina, as the old saying goes. Konjic is right on the border between the two and, as such, touches on several characteristics that make both splendid. The city is one of the oldest permanent settlements in Bosnia and Herzegovina, with folks setting up shop here almost 4,000 years ago. Today, it is a splendid mix of Ottoman-era flourishes and 20th-century concrete, with a gorgeous bridge in the middle. Actually, that sums Konjic up quite nicely. Its two main attractions are an Ottoman bridge and a secret Yugoslav nuclear bunker. The town is famous for its woodcarving, and recent developments suggest that local organisations are waking up to the touristic potential of that. Watch this space. In the meantime, enjoy a pretty town of 10,000 people, with the turquoise Neretva running through and deep green forests all around.

TRANSPORT

Wherefore art thou bus station, Konjic? Stopping on the side of the road does not constitute a bus station. Still, these are the lemons from which we must create lemonade, so what can you do. Konjic is on the road between Mostar and Sarajevo, and buses stop next to the Aroma bakery (Kolonija 5) on the other side of the river from the centre. That does mean there is a bakery, cafe and a Žeks doner, but you won’t find any information, and you’ll be buying your tickets on the bus. A short walk to town, nothing too dramatic. Don’t take your kebab onto the bus, please. Konjic train station (Željeznička) is a much more formal affair, meaning it has an actual building. Two trains head to Mostar and Sarajevo each daily, one in the morning and one in the early evening.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

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Stara Ćuprija

I once referred to the Stara Ćuprija as the George Harrison of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s Ottoman-era stone bridges despite knowing nothing about The Beatles. I’m sticking to the moniker. The history of Konjic’s showpiece is different to its contemporaries, from the beginning to the current day. The bridge was finished in 1683 at the behest of Ali-aga Hasečić, and it was actually destroyed by the retreating Nazis in World War II. The socialist Yugoslav government had no interest in reconstructing it, but the post-Yugoslav era had better ideas. The bridge was restored stone by stone in 2009. It is a gorgeous sight, especially from the Yuri Gagarin bridge, a little downriver, as the mountains provide a stunningly green backdrop.

Armijska Ratna Komanda D-0

An interesting one is this, and not just because of the whole ‘top secret nuclear bunker’ thing. RK D-0 Armijska Ratna Komanda, better known as Tito’s Bunker, was an obscenely expensive project that served no purpose outside of feeding paranoia. It was built to house Tito and his inner circle in the case of a nuclear attack on the country, which obviously didn’t happen. The complex is vast, to say the least, and it is easy to lose your bearings when wandering through its narrow halls and into its various rooms. It had everything, from communications to energy supplies, enough to fuel hundreds of people for life underground. For six months, anyway, after which someone would need to go up and see what’s going on. The bunker doubles up as a fantastic art museum, with innovative works throughout. You can only visit with a guide and on an authorised tour, so contact the Konjic tourist office to make that happen. +387 62 922 992, info@visitkonjic.com

Lukomir

High in the hills lies a village that captured the hearts of social media accounts worldwide. How could it not? Lukomir is beautiful, a stunning village staying true to traditions, where old-fashioned is the only way. The village sits on the slopes of Bjelašnica and is the most remote village in Bosnia and Herzegovina, which is a marvellous claim to fame. Unsurprisingly, it is getting more and more attention every year. No public transport heads up here, so organise a private tour with the tourist office.

Boračko Lake

Sat peacefully at the foot of Prenj, Boračko Lake is one of the most delightful glacial lakes in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Swimming here is a joyful experience (I’m told, I’ve not done it myself, being a weak swimmer and all that), and the lake is a real treasure for those looking to explore the mountains. A range of fish call the lake home, from carp to trout, and it isn’t hard to see why Boračko is a popular spot for recreation and relaxation.

City Museum

Konjic’s City Museum is somewhat underwhelming, with two small rooms showcasing simple artefacts from the city’s history. The house itself is the real highlight, and it also houses temporary exhibitions throughout the year. Be sure to call ahead if you want to visit, as opening hours are inconsistent. Stara Čaršija, +387 36 727 080

Mehmed-čauševa Mosque

You might find yourself sitting at Restoran Han with a heaping pile of grilled meat in front of you, gazing across the river at the mosque, thinking to yourself, “I wonder what the name of that beauty is?” Fret not, reader. It is the Mehmed-čauševa Mosque, a gorgeous mosque with more than 500 years of history behind it, standing alone next to the shimmering Neretva. It is also one of the busiest mosques in town, so time your lunch for Friday prayers and watch Konjic get to work. Zuke Džumhura

Zuko Džumhur House

Yugoslavia’s greatest Bohemian was born in Konjic, and his home is now a museum dedicated to his fascinating life. Zuko Džumhur was his name, and eccentricity was his game. Writing and painting, actually, and Konjic’s favourite son was a hugely-influential travel writer and illustrator. The opening times suggest that his birth museum is open every day, but that isn’t true, so call ahead and make sure you can visit. Zuke Džumhura, +387 36 727 080

Čaršija Mosque

Also known as the Junuz-Čauš Mosque, the Čaršija Mosque dates to the 16th century, although it suffered greatly during the most recent war. It was rebuilt entirely, and its current status is a triumph. A small graveyard pays homage to those who died defending Konjic during the war. Stara Čaršija

Church of St John the Baptist

It took a long old while to build this monastery church in the heart of Konjic, but good things come to those who wait. The design idea changed over time, but the end result achieved the aim of providing a peaceful sanctuary for anyone seeking such a thing. It is a relatively modest affair, although this is a positive remark. Maršala Tita bb.

Rakitnica

I’m not going to waste your time talking about undiscovered places. The fact that I am writing about it on this website suggests that it may have been found by folks already. Still, the air in Rakitnica is a little different, no? Cleaner, that’s for sure. Rakitnica is technically a tributary of the Neretva, but this thrilling canyon is much more. It is all glacial waters, high-adrenaline activity and heavy-breathing hiking, with one trail leading all the way to Lukomir. As with several things in Konjic, the best way to visit is through the tourist office. I don’t want to sound like a broken record, but it is true.

Vardačka Mosque

Konjic has many pretty mosques, but only one has a damaged minaret. The Vardačka Mosque is one of the few in Bosnia and Herzegovina without a top to its minaret, wearing its scars like a proud survivor of real trauma. The mosque was mentioned in the 17th century and was constructed by Husein-bey Mulić, and the small museum contains products created in the Ismail Mulić woodcarving school. Varda

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Konjic isn’t a big beer place, so you can more than likely say goodbye to any hopes of a raucous night. Don’t worry, the break will do you good. There are a couple of bars in the centre of town, namely Zanzibar (Maršala Tita 78, +387 61 981 165) and Intermezzo (Maršala Tita 88, +387 62 292 888), but this is very much a coffee and cake sort of place. You’ll find both of those at Oaza (Maršala Tita 69, +387 36 726 772). The Intermezzo mentioned above is a solid brunch option, but you should definitely look towards Vidikovac’s (Musala bb, +387 36 831 534) views, Han’s (Donje Polje bb, +387 36 725 300) location, Novalića Kula’s (Maršala Tita, +387 36 727 170) traditions or Hajduk’s (Trg Državnosti, +387 36 726 602) ćevapi for lunch. Last but not least, Miris Lipe (Stara Čaršija, +387 61 387 579) is the best cafe in town, and it isn’t even close.

SLEEPING

Konak (Stara Čaršija, +387 36 735 550) and Oaza (Maršala Tita 69, +387 36 726 772) are the two decent options in the town centre. The former is old-fashioned and tends to dine out on its riverside location and traditional architecture, while the latter is a much more enjoyable affair with a good cafe on the ground floor. Garden City Konjic (Trbića polje, +387 36 712 800) is a splendid option for anyone not bothered by sleeping outside the centre. Motel Konjic (and Hostel Konjic) is very closed. When I was last there, a man inside told me that it was closed ‘forever’, complete with sweeping hand gestures. I saw no reason to doubt him.

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