Orašje

Orašje is the administrative centre of the Posavina canton, although it is far more interesting than that unnecessarily dry introduction. It is a beautiful town in its own way, although the mass of closed storefronts suggests an uncertain future. Its past is glittering, however, from its origins as Terra Tolys in the 12th century to the French-inspired urban development that came in the 19th. Its population grew when Muslims from neighbouring came here to escape persecution, and the early 20th century saw a slew of firsts come to these parts. The first primary school, for one, followed by agricultural co-operatives, post offices, telephones and all the rest. It is even said that a hair from the head of Muhammed is kept in its central mosque. Orašje is that sort of place, one where every street suggests something important from the past while simultaneously offering an uncertain future. I like it, but that shouldn’t shock you.

TRANSPORT

An excellent bus station (Četrnaesta 97, +387 31 710 045). The office is way too big for a town of this size, and the location isn’t too great (a 20-minute walk south of the town centre), but it has everything you need. Well, except wifi. And up-to-date information. Okay, it isn’t excellent, but it is better than I expected, and that is worth celebrating. The lack of up-to-date information isn’t all that important as there aren’t many buses running through here. Orašje is connected to Sarajevo, Tuzla, Brčko, Zenica and Mostar, although the latter is a night bus. No, thank you.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Tolisa Monastery

Generally speaking, Tolisa is a quiet village 6km or so from Orašje, but there is more to this than meets the eye. The devil is in the details and whatnot, but Tolisa’s famous landmark is all about the angels. The Franciscan Monastery is another gorgeous Catholic structure that rivals those found in Tomislavgrad, Široki Brijeg and others. Constructed in the second half of the 19th century, the monastery and Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary shimmer with grace, surrounded by statues and busts of those who left their mark here, notably the man who got the whole thing moving in the first place. His name was Friar Martin Nedić, for the record, a man of words indelibly linked to 19th-century Bosnian culture who received his education in Tolisa. On that subject, Tolisa actually got the first civil elementary school in Bosnia and Herzegovina (1832). The monastery is home to a packed museum and a vast library, although it is best to call ahead to see if visiting is possible. Fra Martina Nedića 1, Tolisa, +387 31 754 064

Sava Promenade

The Sava separates Orašje from Croatia, and this mighty European river has been the focus of development here since forever. The promenade in Orašje isn’t exactly long, but wandering along the banks of the river is a delightful way to spend some time here during summer. Feel free to stop in a cafe or two.

Sultan Abdul Aziz Mosque

The central mosque in Orašje is another in a long line of charming mosques around Bosnia and Herzegovina, but there is a legend that suggests something more meaningful. According to the story, a pilgrim from Mecca visited Orašje many years ago, bringing a single hair from the beard of Muhammad (PBUH) with him. That hair remains in this mosque, although it only comes out on the 27th night of Ramadan. You won’t get to see it, and that is absolutely fair. Instead, marvel at the darling white and green motif of this 1862-constructed mosque. It went unscathed during the war if you wanted more evidence of its importance. Sedma ulica

Church of the Blessed Aloysius Stepinac

The walk from the bus station in Orašje to the town centre isn’t the most exciting, but the peaceful presence of the Church of the Blessed Aloysius Stepinac certainly brightens the stroll. The parish church is the centre of Orašje’s Catholic community, and its strongest suit is its simplicity. Construction began in 1998 and was completed in stages until its unveiling in 2006. Četrnaesta ulica, +387 31 714 545

Mezaristan

I’m loathe to recommend cemeteries as it always feels a little disrespectful, but the Orašje Mezaristan is something else. The cemetery is small but perfectly formed on a small patch of land between the bus station and the town centre, with more ostentatious tombstones providing an engaging juxtaposition next to the more restrained traditional markers that are a common sight across the country. Četrnaesta ulica

City Park

Sticking with the small but perfectly formed, Orašje’s central park is more of a square with trees, grass, monuments and benches, but it does the job. Ćevabdžinicas to the left, cafe to the right, mosque behind, stuck in the middle with you and all that jazz. There are three monuments in the small park, each paying respect to lives lost in the wars of the 20th century. Treća ulica

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Orašje is a small town, so don’t expect streets lined with international eating options and glitzy cocktail bars. I’m not sure if you get there anywhere in Bosnia, but you aren’t finding it here. What Orašje does have is an excellent restaurant at Hotel Navis (Nasip, +387 31 711 000) and several decent ćevabdžinicas, with Baća (Deseta ulica, +387 31 714 442) and Sava (Deseta ulica, +387 31 713 693) getting my vote. On the coffee and alcohol front, a couple of decent little spots along the river do the job. Corso (Nasip, +387 63 178 781) is pleasant, The Mutvak (Nasip, +387 63 642 381) is also, while People’s Caffe (Nasip, +387 31 714 700) is a splendidly stylish option.

SLEEPING

Hotel Navis (Nasip, +387 31 711 000, info@navis.ba) is a little pricey but fantastic nonetheless. The rooms are excellent, with all the mod cons and a few old-fashioned ones, and the restaurant is the finest in town. A riverside location seals the deal. Ten thumbs up.

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