SARAJEVO ALIFAKOVAC guide

Alifakovac is as old as the hills. There’s a joke in there somewhere; I’m just not intelligent enough to make it. Alifakovac was one of the first urban settlements in these parts, and it takes its name from an old guy (as in, from old times) called Ali-Ufak, a lawyer who was supposedly a witness at the founding of the city. There are many large cemeteries in Sarajevo, but few are as integral to the development of the neighbourhood as Alifakovac. In fact, it wouldn’t be entirely wrong to call it a neighbourhood that was built around the cemetery, and Alifakovac was the final resting place for everyone from travellers to local officers to ordinary folks. Today, it is a charming residential area on the slopes of Trebević, where every house supposedly has access to a view and sunlight.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Alifakovac Cemetery

While focusing on cemeteries always feels a little wrong, but this is no ordinary cemetery. Alifakovac is one of the oldest parts of Sarajevo and this is one of the city’s oldest (and biggest) cemeteries, the final resting place for many important individuals from the 15th century onwards. The sea of white markers can be quite overwhelming, including among them the grave of Ali-Ufak, a 15th-century qadi who witnessed the legal beginnings of what became Sarajevo. He is just one of over 500 souls laid to rest here, some remembered in Bosnian, others in Arabic, some even in Cyrillic. While I don’t want to bring light to a graveyard, the views of Sarajevo are spectacular. Veliki Alifakovac

Inat Kuća

The House of Spite! Sarajevo’s (in)famous Inat Kuća is relatively defanged today, housing a decent traditional restaurant as enjoyable for its architecture as its dishes, but this place is all about the story. When Austria-Hungary took over, they cleared a load of land to make space for the magnificent Vijećnica. There was just one problem. One stubborn dude refused to sell his house, and it just so happened to be right in the damn way. Jumping ahead somewhat, he eventually struck a deal with the authorities, whereby his house would be moved to the other side of the river, brick by brick, and reassembled as was. Thus, the House of Spite. It seems more like the House of Compromise, but you get the point. The Hadžijski ćevap is fantastic. Veliki Alifakovac 1, +387 33 489 767

Hajji’s Mosque

Sat peacefully behind the Inat Kuća, the Hajji’s Mosque (or the Vekil Harać Mosque, depending on who you ask) was constructed in the 16th century. The name? Well, the Hajji version comes from its reputation for hosting pilgrims before they began their journey to Mecca, while Vekil Harać was an officer under Gazi Husrev-beg. Moniker mysteries aside, the mosque has been renovated and rebuilt several times, and a charming fountain sits in front. The mosque is walled off, which is a shame. Veliki Alifakovac

Timurhan Nezir Mosque

A charming little mosque close to the famous Alifakovac Cemetery, the Timurhan Nezir Mosque was initially constructed in 1565. A plaque on the door pays homage to those who helped construct it and bring water to the neighbourhood, which is always pleasant. The mosque is only open during prayer time. Čeljigovići

Sarajevo Geysers

A bit of a misleading name, but the Sarajevo Geysers are still pretty delightful. The cascading water can be found in Bentbaša, a short walk from Vijećnica and the Inat Kuća, and rarely do people stop and pay attention to them. I’m not entirely sure why, but make the most of it and enjoy the charms.

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Alifakovac is surprisingly thin on the brews, booze and bites front, largely due to the residential nature of its development. Inat Kuća (Veliki Alifakovac 1, +387 33 489 767) is at the bottom of the hill and gets plenty of attention because of its history and story, although the food can be hit and miss. Cafe City View (Podcarina 1, +387 61 322 222) offers exactly what you’d expect from somewhere called Cafe City View, and it more than lives up to the moniker.

SLEEPING

Alifakovac is a residential neighbourhood on a hill, so there are not many formal accommodation options for visitors. That isn’t entirely true; there are plenty of apartments, but Hotel Boss (Braće Morić, +387 33 869 656) and Hotel Herc (Podcarina 1, +387 33 232 597) are the only hotels of note. On the subject of the apartments, I find it impossible to ignore the charms of ApHEARTments (Maguda 14, +387 65 796 099), for reasons that should be obvious to anyone who has read more than one of these guides.

ALIFAKOVAC