SARAJEVO VRATNIK guide — John W Bills

One of the oldest neighbourhoods in the city, Vratnik is also where many of my first Sarajevo memories were formed. I used to curse the slopes as I trundled up to Haris Youth Hostel, but the views more than made up for it. Centuries of life and love had passed in Vratnik before this four-eyed Welshman arrived, with the low hum of Ottoman life prevalent from the 16th century onwards. As with many other parts of the country, Prince Eugene of Savoy burned it down in 1697, and Vratnik was subsequently reconfigured as a walled city, a protective network constructed around Sarajevo’s people. That explains the gates and fortresses, although many of these were built before Eugene’s terroristic violence. Today, Vratnik is arguably the most “Sarajevo” of the city’s neighbourhoods. In some way, it is what Baščaršija advertises itself as, namely a time machine to Ottoman Sarajevo, with narrow streets, steep hills, community spirit and minarets in every direction.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Bijela Tabija (White Fortress)

That’s a fortress, hot damn. There isn’t a whole lot left of Sarajevo’s White Fortress, but it was erected in the 16th century, so don’t be surprised. The actual birthdate of the Bijela Tabija is a point of contention, but everyone agrees it is bloody old. It was in a shoddy condition before the war, and the shelling from VRS positions in the hills only exacerbated the issue, which gives us the fortress we find today. There are always plans to renovate and reconstruct, but those plans never materialise. I hope my cynicism is proven wrong in the future. Poddžebhana 15

© MuamerOsmanbegovic // Shutterstock.com

Jajce Barracks

Much like the White Fortress, the future of the imposing Jajce Barracks isn’t clear. Even from a distance, it is clear that the building is woefully neglected and on the verge of collapse, but who can pay for the upkeep of such a spot? The barracks were constructed in 1914 at the behest of the Austro-Hungarian army, originally named after Prince Eugene of Savoy before being renamed after the moving of a military hospital from Jajce. Naming it after Eugene wasn’t in the best taste, as that guy famously burnt Sarajevo to the ground, but the Austrians weren’t exactly the most self-aware. Yes, Franz, I’m looking at you. The massive building has been in this poor state for over 20 years. You can see it from pretty much anywhere in the city centre. Yes, the views are fantastic, but just watch out for the whole “might collapse at any time” aspect of the place. Bijela Džamija

Višegrad Gate

It doesn’t get as much attention as the other two gates closer to the centre, but the Višegrad Gate has always been more important. When it was constructed in the early 19th century, the Višegrad Gate was the main entrance to the city, the arrival point for traders and travellers looking to enter Sarajevo. Today, it is more of an endpoint, where Vratnik stops and the wilderness begins. A small monument outside the gate honours Frederic Maurice, a delegate from the Red Cross who died here in 1992. Višegradska Kapija

Crvena Tabija

Unlike the Yellow and White fortresses, nothing remains of Sarajevo’s Red Fortress. Once an integral part of the city’s defence structure, today the Crvena Tabija is nothing but a patch of land surrounded by ramshackle houses, high above the city on Strošići, close to Zmajevac. The land is trapezoid in shape, small but perfectly formed, but you aren’t walking all the way up here to discuss shapes. You’re going to walk up here because the view is, in my humble opinion, the best in the city. All of Sarajevo spreads out in front of you, filling the lungs with desperately needed air and the heart with waves of joy. The walk is pretty darn steep, so do be careful, but it is worth it.

Vratnik Mosques

Unsurprisingly, for one of Sarajevo’s oldest and most traditional neighbourhoods, Vratnik has many, many mosques. I originally toyed with the idea of writing about them all, but that may have to wait for another day. For the time being, I’ll shine a light on some of the most impressive, although you should really spend a day wandering around Vratnik’s narrow streets to choose your own favourites. My favourite? That title goes to the Porčina Mosque (Porčina), also known as the Mosque under the Walnut Tree, but most notably known as Lady Kerima’s Mosque. It was Kerima-hatun (wife of Sinan) who established this gorgeous mosque in 1522, along with a mekteb and turbe, both of which were destroyed by Eugene and his forces at the end of the 17th century. Elsewhere, you’ll find the graceful White Mosque (Tabijska, 1536-ish), the proud Carina Mosque (Carina, 1516), and many more. Each has a story to tell, and each is packed with memories of this famous old neighbourhood.

Saburina Kuća

One of the finest examples of Ottoman-era residential architecture in Sarajevo, the Saburina Kuća (Sabura’s House) was reconstructed in the 21st century to somewhere in the vicinity of its former glory. Its first life began in the middle of the 18th century, a residential complex for the wealthy Sabur family, a clan of coppersmiths and copper traders. There were richly furnished houses for men and women, a courtyard, gorgeous gardens and many outbuildings. The last male of the Sabur dynasty passed away in 1867, and the last of the Saburs died in 1905. Within two decades, the house was dilapidated to the point of destruction, and the war did the rest. Today, it stands proud once more. Saburina 6

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Unless I’m missing something obvious in the great mountain of guides, Vratnik is pretty underwhelming on the food and drink front. I’m not sure what to blame that on. The hill? The residential area? These older residential areas in Sarajevo tend to be pretty light on cafes and restaurants, which I’ll guess is because most folks cook at home, although I’m not sure if I’m making a based assumption there. Either way, the only cafe or restaurant of real note up here is Kamarija (Pod bedemom, +387 62 546 496), which is next to Žuta Tabija and has excellent views of the city.

SLEEPING

Most of my formative Sarajevo nights were spent in Vratnik at the genre-defining Haris Youth Hostel (Vratnik Mejdan 37), although I’m not entirely sure what the latest is there. Haris is in the United States, I know that much, and is it Haris Youth Hostel without the man himself? Can it really be Haris Hostel without Nedžla? I once stayed at Hotel Hayat (Abdesthana 37, +387 61 448 707) and remember it being more than decent, so let’s go with that.

VRATNIK