TREBINJE city guide — John W Bills

I’m not one to break the habit of a lifetime, so let’s come straight out with a big statement as an opening gambit. Trebinje is the prettiest city in Republika Srpska and a top three city in Bosnia and Herzegovina as a whole. Heck, in terms of looks, it might be in a league of its own. The view across the Trebišnjica towards the Stari Grad is one of the country’s great delights. The city itself is a brilliant adventure, a history-packed charmer with a keen eye on keeping its standards high for the ever-growing number of visitors trekking down here annually. As a handsome man once said, it is a city of rebels and poets, where the thoughtful scribbled while the brave made plans to fight for what they had. Trebinje is one of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s great highlights. I can be a bit optimistic about the future tourist arrivals in BiH, but I’m underselling Trebinje. Get on this train before it speeds out of the relatively undiscovered station.

TRANSPORT

Is it the best bus station in Bosnia and Herzegovina? Maybe, just maybe. Trebinje bus station (Vojvode Stepe Stepanovića, +387 59 260 430) is centrally located and has an easy-to-use ticket office, a timetable, toilets, and a cafe with WiFi. There is a supermarket next door for all your snacking requirements. Trebinje has direct connections to Mostar, Sarajevo, Istočno, Foča, Banja Luka and others, including runs to Montenegro and Serbia. If it isn’t the best, it is definitely in the top five.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Hercegovačka Gračanica

Perched high upon a hill in the centre of Trebinje, Hercegovačka Gračanica is arguably the most idyllic monastery in Bosnia and Herzegovina. I could wax lyrical about the views all day long, vistas that showcase the glimmering magic of Trebinje from above, but the whole ‘everything the light touches’ part is just the starter. The monastery itself is the main meal, aesthetically inspired by its famous contemporary in Gračanica (Kosovo), completed in 2000 and where iconic Trebinje-born poet, traveller and diplomat Jovan Dučić is buried. That explains the name of the restaurant if you were wondering. The walk up Crkvina Hill isn’t the easiest, but I did it, so you should be more than fine. Crkvina, +387 59 261 362

Stari Grad

Protected behind high walls that remain steady today, Trebinje’s Stari Grad is as serene as old towns get in the modern tourism age. The old town was developed by the Ottomans in the 18th century and holds many treasures within its boundaries, although by ‘treasures’, I mean ‘historical structures, excellent cafes and delicious restaurants’. Two mosques stand out, with the Osman Pasha Mosque attracting love-heart eyes in the centre while the Sultan Ahmed Mosque ponders peacefully close to the river. Anđelka’s Gate is nearby, a pilgrimage spot for fans of 21st-century Serbian TV dramas. Ranjeni Orao was filmed here if you want to make sense of that.

Arslanagić Bridge

I do love an Ottoman-era stone bridge, and Trebinje’s entry is one of the finest. The Arslanagić Bridge (also called the Perović Bridge) was constructed in 1574, but it takes its name from the 17th-century dude who set up a toll booth here. Thanks to It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia, toll is now synonymous with troll, so have fun with that. The bridge was originally 10km upstream but was moved stone by stone following the construction of a hydropower plant in the ’60s.

Freedom Square

Trg Slobode is everything you want a small town market square to be. I don’t want to say it is hemmed in, but it is, shaded from the fierce sun by buildings and chestnut trees, allowing the people of Trebinje to go about their business. Whether that means buying and selling fresh produce or catching up with friends, it doesn’t matter, as conversation is the real pull. Take a seat, order an espresso, and watch Trebinje do its thing. Trg Slobode

Tvrdoš Monastery

History, culture, wine, serenity and tumult all find a place in the story of Tvrdoš. Set along the banks of the Trebišnjica 8km northwest of Trebinje, the monastery was erected on the foundations of a 4th-century church and really came into its own in the 16th and 17th centuries until Venice destroyed it in 1684. What we see today was constructed in 1924, a gorgeous structure that is arguably best known for the fantastic wines it produces annually. Those wine cellars are delightful, historical attractions in their own right, no matter your weekly wine intake. Oenophiles should have Tvrdoš at the top of their Trebinje to-do list, but the monastery complex is a must for anyone. Tvrdoš, +387 59 246 810

City Park

Trebinje’s City Park is one of the best in the country, with ample opportunities for a romantic stroll or a little historical exploration. There are several monuments here, from a World War II memorial to statues of famous folks, and the Cathedral Temple of the Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord is arguably Trebinje’s finest city centre church. Club 809 is a decent spot for a coffee.

Museum of Herzegovina

Set on the edge of the Stari Grad, the Museum of Herzegovina is one of the best museums in the country and maybe the best in Herzegovina. As the name suggests, the museum tells the story of Herzegovina through ethnographic displays and educational boards, although the English ranges from decent to non-existent. The museum also contains exhibitions covering Jovan Dučić (our buddy was the impetus for the museum’s development), Milorad Ćorović (a 20th-century painter), Radovan Ždrale (a writer and sculptor), Atanasije Popović (painter), Milena Šotra and more. The building is charming, and Trebinje’s old railway station is opposite. Stari Grad 59, +387 59 271 060

Duži Monastery

The story of this monastery 12km south of Trebinje is eternally tied to the more famous Tvrdoš. Duži was born out of the destruction of Tvrdoš, as the monks looked for a new place to do their thing. It is an altogether more humble setting, but that works in its favour, as does the strange experience of descending steps to enter the monastery itself. You might even see a cow when you are here, which is always pleasant. Duži

Monastery of St. Peter and St. Paul

Peter and Paul must be sick of each other by now, surely. The Monastery of those two dudes is located 5km or so south of Trebinje in Petrovo Polje (Peter’s Field), and the complex is made up of St Peter’s Church (the remains of it, at least), the reconstructed Church of St Paul, and the usual low hum of tranquillity provided by monasteries. St. Paul’s Cave is found in the nearby hills, where the eponymous saint used to do most of his baptising. Zgonjevo, +387 59 260 688

Jovan Dučić

Not the man himself, in a literal sense, but his influence. You’ll feel it all over Trebinje, which is no great shock. Dučić was one of the most impactful and influential writers of his time in these parts, a moustachioed man who travelled far and wide and worked in diplomatic circles. His home town was always close to his heart, and you’ll see his name and likeness everywhere here, from monuments to streets to souvenirs.

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Eating in Trebinje is a delight. In the old town, Kolo (Stari Grad, +387 59 271 700), Porto Bello (Stari Grad 37, +387 59 223 344) and Humsko (Stari Grad, +387 65 333 216) are the standouts, with the latter also brewing its own excellent beer. Sticking with beer, I’m immeasurably sad that I didn’t get to experience The Brick, and Andrew’s OZ Craft Pivo is sorely missed. Don’t worry; the good folks at Porto Galo (Obala Mića Ljubibratića, +387 66 851 493) pour the crispest pint of lager I’ve had in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Botanik (Svetosavska 13) is the best coffee place, while Platani (Rista I Bete Vukanović 1, +387 59 274 050) is an excellent place for a morning brew while watching all the activity in the main square. Outside of town, Studenac (Milentija Perovića, +387 59 482 627) is dictionary definition picturesque, while the views from Dučićev Pogled (Crkvina, +387 66 314 137) are as magnificent as you’d expect from a restaurant in such a setting. Last but not least, Trebinje is a significant wine producer in the country, so oenophiles should make a beeline for Anđelić (Gorica, +387 59 259 222), Vukoje (Hrupjela 28, +387 59 270 370), Aćimović (Mosko, +387 65 211 889) or even the terrific Tvrdoš Monastery (Tvrdoš, +387 59 246 810).

SLEEPING

Trebinje has many decent hotels waiting to provide slumber and (usually) breakfast. Sesto Senso (Obala Mića Ljubibratića 3, +387 59 261 160) has a fantastic location just outside the old town, while Platani (Rista I Bete Vukanović 1, +387 59 274 050) and Central Park (Trg Slobode 6, +387 59 490 850) are smack bang on the main square. A little further out, we find Apis (Voja Koraća 17, +387 59 222 101) and Nar (Republike Srpske 35, +387 59 226 600), both excellent hotels in their own right. There are loads of private apartments dotted around town as well. Long story short, you’ll have no trouble finding somewhere to stay in Trebinje.

TREBINJE