ŽIVINICE city guide — John W Bills

I’m not going to sit here and implore you to visit Živinice. The town is overshadowed by neighbouring Tuzla, to the point where Tuzla International Airport is actually located within Živinice municipality. The disrespect continues with the city itself, as there aren’t a whole lot of attractions to bring visitors to the streets of Živinice. Despite all this, it is an eminently likeable place, with busy streets and buzzing cafes, as you’d expect from the 14th-largest town in the country. Nobody is entirely clear where the name Živinice comes from, which seems somewhat on-brand with the city. The history ticks the usual boxes, going through the same overlords until independence in the ‘90s. The town was known for metal production and furniture, which maybe sums it up. But, and it is a large ‘but’ that should come bolded and underlined, Živinice is a fun place that showcases modern Bosnian life at its most authentic, and that should be celebrated.

TRANSPORT

Živinice’s bus station (Željeznička, +387 35 774 625) is modern and well-organised, with a little shop, a waiting room and a toilet. Sometimes you need to ask for a key, sometimes you don’t; it all depends on the roll of that fateful dice. It depends on whether the toilet is unlocked, but you get the point. There is also a timetable, but you are more intelligent than me if you can understand it. The bus station is a breezy 10-minute walk from the main square. Almost every bus that goes south or west of Tuzla runs through Živinice, so you can consider it well-connected. Theoretically, there is a train station, but don’t expect any trains. The airport (designated as Tuzla but located in Živinice municipality) is 7km east of the town centre.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Bulevar Nesiba Malkića

Živinice’s main drag ticks all the usual boxes, with cafes, restaurants, bars, monuments, fountains, one of those signs that remind you the name of the city, and all that jazz. Most of the city’s significant events occur here, and the Sebilj is a humble nod to the Ottoman years, albeit made out of white marble instead of wood.

Central Mosque

The central mosque in Živinice is a pretty one, with a copper-covered dome and two towering minarets that possess a pleasant green and white colour gradient. Construction of the mosque began in 1955 and remains unfinished, but couldn’t it be argued that work on God’s structures should never be considered complete? Heavy stuff, but this mosque is very pretty nonetheless. Oslobođenja 23, +387 35 773 362

Sebilj

The sebilj (fountain, essentially) is the great modern symbol of Živinice. Sarajevo’s famous sebilj is made of wood, but Živinice’s is an altogether classier affair, made of white marble and shimmering all year round. That material suggests it isn’t quite as old, and that is true, with Živinice’s sebilj being unveiled in 2020. It isn’t old, but it is darn pretty and mighty practical, providing the people of Živinice with drinking water on those sweltering summer days.

Chapel of St Ante Padovanski

A quaint and unassuming church located at the entrance to Živinice (from the Tuzla direction), the Chapel of St Ante Padovanski is the oldest preserved Catholic building in town. It isn’t ancient, being finished in 1912 and all that, but it is charming enough to warrant attention. The chapel was renovated in 2014 and is a short walk from the town centre. I Ulica

Tito Monument

Busts of old Joey Tito aren’t as rare as you might think, and you’ll find them across this region in particular. Živinice’s contribution to the Tito troupe is next to Central Park and is usually adorned with flowers, wreaths and other classic signs of remembrance.

Central Park

As the name suggests, this park is in the centre of Živinice. A monument to those who fought to defend the town in the most recent war sits here, a Lily structure adorned with the names of the brave. There is also a monument of Nesib Malkić, the Živinice-born military commander tasked with organising the town’s defence at that time. The park is just off the main pedestrian drag and is a delightful little spot for peace and fresh air.

BKC Živinice (Bosnian Cultural Centre)

The building isn’t exactly the most alluring, but cultural centres are generally more valuable for what happens inside. The Bosnian Cultural Centre in Živinice (BKC) is no different, with a packed schedule of events throughout the year, from concerts to readings and beyond. The centre is across the road from Jet Star, the first of three mentions for that charming little place. Alije Izetbegovića 42, +387 35 773 908

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Most decent eating and drinking options in Živinice are on the main pedestrian street. I had fantastic ćevapi at Bulevar (+387 35 772 777), while Pub ‘80s (+387 61 736 467) serves cold beer and hot coffee. Jet Star (Alije Izetbegovića 55, +387 35 774 866) doubles up as a bar and restaurant as well, while Mliječni (25. Novembar, +387 62 376 897) is under the central mosque and specialises in traditional dishes.

SLEEPING

Not a huge range of options in Živinice, which is slightly surprising considering the nearby airport. Motel Jet Star (Alije Izetbegovića 55, +387 35 774 866) is simple and charming, with a busy pub and restaurant underneath. Hotel President (Ljubače, +387 35 808 549) is where you should stay if you happen to be the president, obviously, but it is 6km out of town, so maybe not.

ŽIVINICE