24 Hours in Bijeljina

The good side of Stanišići // © DMZ001 // Shutterstock.com

Nestled up in the northeast corner of the country, not far from the border with Serbia, Bijeljina is one of the biggest cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina. That’s right, revel in the total lack of character in that opening sentence! Bijeljina is a fascinating place, dominated by towering stacks but with plenty of curiosities hidden within its streets, along with a buzzing cafe scene and the small matter of a massive etno-selo nearby. You’ve got one day, here’s how to spend it.

A fairly accurate representation of love, really // © John Bills

Morning

Truth be told, this is more like 18 hours in Bijeljina, because the afternoon is an out-of-town adventure, so get to steppin’. Make a beeline for the town’s main square, Trg Kralja Petar I Karađorđevića, and get yourself a coffee there. It doesn’t matter where, you are in a rush, so down that espresso and head over to the Semberija Museum. Housed in one of the oldest buildings in town, the museum ticks the usual boxes but does a fine job of checking them off, with an excellent look at the modern history of Bijeljina embellished by an ethnographic cover of the entire region. Yes, there is archaeology. No, I didn’t look at it.

With all that newly acquired information, head out into the wilds of Bijeljina and look at the city with new eyes. The Atik Mosque is nearby, a typically stunning piece of architecture that was originally constructed in the 16th century and played the role the birds do for us mortals. Nothing happened in Bijeljina without the walls of the Atik Mosque discussing it within seconds. Rebuilt in 2003, it is a darling work.

Speaking of darlings, Bijeljina’s City Park is itself a darling, a heavily-shaded stroller with monuments of famous Serbs hidden within. You know the names, Tesla, Pupin, the usual. Don’t make the mistake of spouting that science-fiction nonsense about parks being the ‘lungs of a city’ though, don’t be silly. Walk from the park towards the massive Water Tower before continuing towards Svetog Save street to consider a dilapidated building that once stood as a beacon to love. It was here that Jovan Dučić met and fell in love with Magdalena Živanović, a love that societal expectations refused to let bloom. The building is utterly neglected, and only the twin murals of Dučić and Živanović give any indication as to its curious position in the annals of this place. Take a photo or two before stopping at Bašta Cafe for a coffee, tea, soft drink, beer, whatever. You do you, boo.

I hear there is a tree with an incidental Jesus nearby, but I didn’t find it. You can insert your own ‘not ready to find God’ joke here if you must.

Shiny domes! // © Aleksandar Blanusa // Shutterstock.com

Afternoon

Jump in a taxi and head back towards the border, it is time to check out the largest etno-selo in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Stanišići opened to the public in 2003 and has grown and grown in the years since, developing from a pond and a tavern to the massive complex you explore today. It is a little weird, truth be told, and I’m not entirely sure what to make of it. It is all very beautiful, but the original purpose seems to have been lost in the race for girth. Still, there is plenty to see here, plenty to keep you occupied for a good while, so stroll around the grounds and check out all the quaint bridges, old houses and black swans. Yes, black swans. You can also eat here, with traditional cuisine flowing out of the kitchen of Konoba Stanišići.

On your way back to Bijeljina, stop to admire the quite gorgeous St. Petka monastery, a massive nunnery just outside the city grounds. Them’s some shiny domes, I’m sure you’ll agree.

Another busy night at Praha // © Praha Bijeljina // Facebook.com

Evening

You’ll be tuckered out by now, surely, so stop at Restoran Lovac for food and conversation, if you’ve got any space left after Stanišići. Bijeljina has no shortage of options when it comes to evening enjoyment, but the quaint gardens of Garden Pub, Praha and Penny help them stand out. Did I say quaint gardens? I meant beer. Obviously. Hotel Drina gives one of the best massages in Bosnia and Herzegovina, so you could sack most of this off and just get elbows planted into your back. Worth. Every. Ache.