24 Hours in Jajce
Quite magnificent // © Mike Ilchenko // Shutterstock.com
Is it the most beautiful sight in all of Bosnia and Herzegovina? Quite possibly, but I’m not the person to make such a judgment. Still, there is something about massive waterfalls overlooked by a dramatic town that leaves a mark on the soul, right? Jajce is blessed, blessed, blessed, and while those waterfalls are the heart and soul of the town, there is plenty more to this place than cascading water and a keen sense of drama. One of the best pubs in the country, for a start, along with museums, catacombs and a supremely friendly dude making wooden souvenirs in an old family house. Okay, fine, the waterfalls too. For the perfect 24 hours in Jajce, follow my lead.
The darling Pliva Mills // © Shutterstock.com
Morning
Before exploring Jajce proper, head out to the Pliva Mills to get a sense of the scope of beauty here. Located just outside the centre of town, the Mlinčići have been doing their thing here since the Middle Ages, creating produce and looking as beautiful as any other mill on the planet. As far as aesthetically pleasing entrees go, it doesn’t get much better.
When it comes to Jajce proper, you might as well start with the waterfalls. Why not? These dramatic beauties are Jajce’s calling card, and you don’t want to be restricted by time when standing in front of them. Besides, the earlier you get there, the better the chance that you won’t have to share the view with others. George Orwell famously said that beauty is meaningless until it is shared, but some things shine brightest in solitude.
Before you head down for a direct view of the falls, take them in from every possible angle above. There’s no such thing as a bad view of the Pliva Falls. In fact, any angle you fail to find will be a regret, and we don’t want regrets. Take them in from above and then head down for a worm’s eye view, or maybe just a normal human’s eye view. Pay whatever the fee is for the vantage point, don’t be cheap, this is one of the most astounding natural attractions on the continent. You’re going to get a little soggy, but that is absolutely fine, desired even. You’re here for the waterfalls, so let the waterfalls dictate the pace.
There are no words I can add, really // © microstockBA // Shutterstock.com
Afternoon
Okay, the word ‘afternoon’ isn’t entirely accurate unless you spend hours and hours by the falls. You might, of course, but you might not. When your desire for cascading water has been sated, head to the Museum of AVNOJ to learn about the initial baby steps taken by Yugoslavia 2.0, better known as the Yugoslavia we are all really interested in. Tito and his band of merry men held their second major meeting in a small building by the river, a building that is now a museum to those fledgeling ideas and genuinely inspiring optimism. Read as much as you can in the museum, paying particular attention to how little attention was given to the translation of the Serbian part. Almost as if something had happened in the interim that made translating that part less important. All cynicism aside, this is a genuinely important building in the long and storied history of Bosnia and Herzegovina, so pay it as much attention as it deserves. Buy a souvenir or two because the collection of pins is the best you’ll find outside of a flea market.
The entrance to the catacombs in Jajce // © SZ Media // Shutterstock.com
From there, it is time to head up to the fortress, although be sure to stop by the Catacombs first. This is the final resting place of Hrvoje Vukčić Hrvatinić, a supremely important Bosnian nobleman from the Kingdom of Bosnia years, the sort of character who would be played by Alan Rickman in a film. I’ll expand on that theory in time, don’t worry. The catacombs are small but perfectly formed, with some interesting nods to the fascinating history of this most fascinating part of the world. Be sure to pop into the little cabin across from the catacombs and say hello to Pashaga, a vital piece of Jajce’s personable fabric and a man who makes excellent wooden souvenirs. He makes excellent coffee too, so refuel here before wandering up to the fortress. Buy a souvenir too, be a good human.
There isn’t a lot to write home about when it comes to the fortress, but why should there be? Jajce Fortress was constructed in the 14th century, a hundred years or so before it played host to the coronation of Stjepan Tomašević, the last King of Bosnia. The word ‘last’ should tell you how he got on. The Ottomans took Jajce in 1527, the last Bosnian town to fall, and that was that when it came to Jajce as a place of strategic importance.
Get those buns to Svemirko Pub, the best in the country // © Svemirko // Facebook
Evening
Food and drink time, huzzah! For such a popular spot with tourists, Jajce is suspiciously lacking when it comes to good food options. Kod Asima is the best of the bunch, and it also offers up a delightful traditional Bosnian experience in the process. Good food, good people, what more could you want?
Good beer, clearly. Svemirko Pub is one of the best pubs in Bosnia and Herzegovina, a proper top three charmer with fantastic staff and excellent beer. The music is often chosen by social media vote, and pub quizzes happen frequently. It also happens to be housed in the building that famous writer Nikola Šop was born in, which adds another layer of magic to it all. When I first visited Svemirko, I had to excuse myself after a beer too many and a mass of magical conversations covering everything from Bugojnio to Jazz. It was 7pm.
Sleep
Again, not a huge amount of options, but Hotel Turist 98 has a great location, excellent staff and a decent restaurant. They were also the ones who pointed me in the direction of Svemirko, for which they have my eternal gratitude.
