24 Hours in Tuzla
Coloured buildings in the heart of Tuzla // © Mato Papic // Shutterstock.com
Behold, the city of salt! I love Tuzla (I also love salt), I really do. Bosnia and Herzegovina’s third-largest city has a gorgeous atmosphere, some beautiful buildings and an excellent roster of cafes, not to mention the whole ‘only city in Europe with salt lakes in the middle’ thing. Tuzla also makes a decent base from which to explore the region, from the dragon’s lair in Gradačac to the curious character of Brčko. Still, let’s stay focused, and set ourselves the task of 24 beautiful hours in Tuzla.
Hey, Tuzla! // © Mato Papic // Shutterstock.com
Morning
As with any morning in Bosnia and Herzegovina, go get yourself a coffee early doors. There are options here, of course, there are, with Cafe Sloboda making a serious claim for the top of the table. It has a good location too, just around the corner from the tourist information centre on Trg Solina (Salt Square), an early indication of the love affair that this place has with salt. Did you know that Egyptian priests used to avoid salt because they thought it encouraged sexy thoughts? You do now. Looking for other options? Hemingway, Coffee Zone, Xelecto. There you go.
The perfect day in Tuzla will differ depending on what time of year you head to these parts. You aren’t going to laze by the lakes in the middle of winter, after all. With that in mind, let's go ahead and assume that this magical sojourn is happening somewhere between late spring and late autumn, allowing for maximum outdoor time. It makes perfect sense, in that case, for us to go indoors! Contradictions, hooray!
Okay, not quite so fast. Explore Tuzla’s main square and pedestrian centre first, admiring the range of architecture and equally impressive range of colours on show. Nip into Nas Podstrek to pick up a souvenir (the organisation works with disabled people in the area) and stop at the nearby Kapija, the non-salt symbol of Tuzla. The Kapija was the site of an indiscriminate bombing massacre during the war, but its regenerated glory is a defiant symbol of Tuzla in the 21st century. Keep on walking away from the main square, stopping to say hi to Meša and Ismet along the way. More on the latter shortly.
Some heck of a self-portrait // © Charles Beauchamp
Very shortly. The International Portrait Gallery is one of the best galleries in all of Bosnia and Herzegovina, full stop. The ground floor is all about Ismet Mujezinović, the Tuzla-born painter who was beloved around the world. The second floor is devoted to James Pinto (Bijeljina born, Tuzla raised), while the top floor is all portraits, portraits, portraits. Look out for the best of the best from the INTERBIFEP, including my very favourite self-portrait of all time.
Holy moly, this is a long morning, so give it the afternoon heading too. Nip into the nearby Tuzlanski Pivnica for some food and a well-deserved drink.
Salt, salt, lake, lake // © Ajdin Kamber // Shutterstock.com
Afternoon
That was a pretty busy morning, so schedule a little relaxation for the afternoon. The Pannonian Salt Lakes are Tuzla’s main event, the salt lake in the heart of a European city and a pretty magnificent way to while away an afternoon. Spend as long as you like by the water, jump in, see what’s going on, live the good life. When you’ve had enough of the lakes (impossible!), explore the park behind the lakes.
I know this is a piano, but the food at Mama Mia Origins is so, so good // © MamaMia Origins // Facebook
Evening
One option for the evening is to head back to the Pivnica for more beer, in which case make Limenka your afternoon food stop. Truthfully, my evening vote sees us returning to the centre of the city. First, have a fancy meal at Mamma Mia Origins, the most magnificent restaurant in Tuzla, before hitting up the bars of the pedestrian zone. Be sure to check out Urban Beatz, an alternative hangout in the park (with the statue of Tvrtko in full view), while Just Pub, Old Story Pub and Park Pub more than hold their own on the beer front.
Sleep
Hotel Vertigos is one of the newest places in town, and it also happens to have the friendliest staff in the city. Hotel Heartland City has great facilities (and super staff too). Options are always a good thing.
