24 Hours in Međugorje

Pilgrims mop from the knee of the Risen Christ in Međugorje // © Vivida Photo PC

Okay then, here we go. Put aside your cynicism, throw away your sceptic hat, we’re spending 24 hours in Međugorje, and we’re going to love it. You’re going to do a lot of walking, you’re going to get a massage, and you’re going to feel revitalised once all is said and done. Unless you drink too much at the Pivnica, in which case you’ll have a lovely time nonetheless. Here we go then, the third biggest Catholic pilgrimage site on the planet.

You can’t beat a solid mosaic // © Adam Jan Figel // Shutterstock.com

Morning

As much as I’d like to sit in the spa all day long, rejuvenating every single pore in the body, there is a lot of Catholicism to explore first. Head into town early doors to explore the area around the Church of St James the Greater, the main piece of sacral architecture in the town. There are heaps of confessional boxes (in multiple languages) for those looking to get something off their chest, while the arena has benches as far as the eye can see.

Keep on walking out the back, and you’ll eventually get to the Risen Christ statue of JC himself with arms outstretched in triumph (or crucifixion, I’m not sure). Don’t be surprised to see folks lining up to mop up some liquid from Christ’s right knee, which pilgrims have claimed has healing powers. Try to be silent and respectful at all times. Be sure to check out the colourful Luminous Mysteries of the Rosaries between the church and the statue, because they are actually rather beautiful.

I’d also recommend checking out all the souvenir shops because my oh my, is it a sight.

Go for a hike with plenty of friends // © Adam Jan Figel // Shutterstock.com

Afternoon

A bit of a pickle here, as you’re going to need some sustenance for a long walk, but most of the restaurants in the centre of Međugorje are overpriced and middling. Two places rise above, so visit Viktor’s for some scran. You’ll go to the other place later, patience.

Time for a hike. Apparition Hill is where the pilgrims eventually head, to the very spot that gave Međugorje its fame in the first place. You’ll pass a couple of impressive crosses along the way, and it pays to spend a decent amount of time going up and down. Of course, you could rush it and get it done in half an hour or whatever, but what is the point of that? Take your time, take in the views, the history, the sense of it all.

Alternatively, if you’re not into walking up hills, stop for some lovely spa treatments at Međugorje Hotel and Spa. I can vouch for these, having treated myself to a lovely birthday massage not long ago, and the breadth of treatments available is impressive. You might even get an excellent conversation while being massaged, although maybe that defeats the point of it. I can’t be sure.

Međugorje at night. What else can I say? // © Adam Jan Figel // Shutterstock.com

Evening

Guinness lovers can get a pint of the black stuff in Međugorje, but why travel all this way for that? Instead, head to Pivnica Međugorje, enjoy a couple of bottles of Međugorsko and indulge in a quite fantastic goulash, served in delicious bread. Of course, this might not be wholly recommended after a massage, but rules are there to be broken.

That’ll do. No matter your opinion, Međugorje is objectively unique. It is a genuine miracle, and whether you believe it to be a spiritual or economic miracle is entirely up to you.

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