BANJA LUKA city guide — John W Bills

Banja Luka is the second-largest city in Bosnia and Herzegovina, yet it doesn’t get the tourist attention you’d expect from such status. This isn’t for lack of trying, as the city has plenty of excitement to offer curious visitors. Banja Luka has one of the best (if not the best) cafe and nightlife scenes in the country and a range of attractions that cover everything from idyllic monasteries to mountain-top spomeniks via massive churches, medieval (but Roman) fortresses, Ottoman mosques and more. If you are dismissing Banja Luka, you are a fool.

Banja Luka didn’t come into its own as a town until Ban Tisa Milosavljević stepped off a train in November 1929 and set to work. The military traffic expert from Niš was tasked with making a regional centre out of the settlements here, and many of Banja Luka’s most impressive buildings date to this time. Banja Luka’s history goes further back than Tisa, of course, and it was a relatively important Ottoman centre that attracted traders and merchants of all religions and nationalities. Today, it is the centre of politics in Republika Srpska and the best base to explore towns in this part of the country. Kralja Petra Karađorđevića 87, +387 51 490 306, tobl@teol.net

TRANSPORT

Banja Luka bus station (Braće Podgornika, +387 51 922 000) would be the best in the country if it weren’t so bloody far from the city centre. Okay, 2km isn’t exactly a marathon (40km, obviously), but there is something inconvenient about this bus station. It feels further away than it is. It could do with a timetable too, but I’m nitpicking. Banja Luka bus station has friendly English-speaking staff, a little shop, a couple of cafes (where you’ll find wifi) and a toilet. Banja Luka is connected to pretty much everywhere in the country, so see below for times and options. The train station (Prote Nikole Kostića bb, +387 51 301 229) is nearby, a gargantuan building that once bustled but now services only a handful of trains daily, connecting BL to Doboj and Novi Grad (via Prijedor). Banja Luka International Airport (Mahovljani bb, +387 51 535 210, info@bnx.aero) is in Mahovljani, a small village in Laktaši. Still, it gets a nod here, with Ryanair and WizzAir making their presence felt.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Cathedral of Christ the Saviour

You can’t miss it, but if you aren’t sure, this is the big cathedral in the town centre. Despite its imposing size, Banja Luka’s Cathedral of Christ the Saviour somehow manages to retain a confident grace, and the gigantic bell tower is the city’s most recognisable landmark. The church was built during Ban Tisa’s initial construction period, but the 20th century brought destruction and reconstruction regularly. The striking red and yellow stone comes from Mesopotamia, and the steel for the domes came from Siberia. You are hot, and then you are cold. You are yes, then you are no. There is a little souvenir shop if you are hunting for some Christianity kitsch. Trg sprskih vladara 3, +387 51 233 370

Gospodska

The main pedestrian street in Banja Luka is an energetic affair, lined with cafes, restaurants and shops, although you can argue that its primary purpose is for strolling. The name loosely translates as ‘Gentleman’s Street’, which is a fabulous name for a street, although the street’s actual name is Veselina Masleše, named after the Banja Luka-born writer and Partisan. Gospodska (okay, Veselina Masleše) is Banja Luka at its most charming, all Neo-Renaissance buildings, overhanging balconies, decorative windows and the pitter-patter of ambling gossip.

Kastel Fortress

Banja Luka’s oldest historical monument is Kastel, a medieval fortress with a history that goes far beyond even that long-ago time. Where to begin? Neolithic remains have been found here, on a strategically important sport next to the Vrbas, and there have also been discoveries of Roman coins, ceramics and more. Kastel took its most recognisable form during the medieval period and was the centre of activity during the Ottoman centuries. History is important here, but you’ll most likely visit to check out what remains of the thick stone walls and to enjoy the views, the food at Kazamat and the summer rock festivals that pack the place out.

Marija Zvijezda Monastery

We want tourists, but don’t visit! I jest, I jest. Marija Zvijezda Monastery is a Trappist monastery that remains committed to its ways, no matter the long-term consequences. Located just outside the town centre, it is a gorgeous setting accentuated by tradition, melodious humming, and the undeniable magic of cheese. Yes, cheese. The convent gained a certain amount of notoriety for its cheese, even getting some BBC attention, and you can head in to buy some of the stuff. Just be sure to call ahead of time, or you might be turned away at the gate. I don’t know the phone number, which makes this futile, so contact the tourist information centre and see what they can do for you. It is possibly the smallest Trappist monastery in the world, which is pretty cool. Slatinska 1

Banj Brdo

Long story short, I went to a rave on Banj Brdo once. If you know me, you’ll know I am not the raving type. I ended up hanging out with Macedonians and having an excellent time. However, this has nothing to do with what makes this hill and recreational area delightful. Banj Brdo is a 431m hill south of Banja Luka, best known for the Monument to Fallen Krajina Soldiers, a World War II monument at its peak. Legend has it Tito considered it the most beautifully located WWII monument in Yugoslavia. The tales continue; Banj Brdo was called Šehitluci in a different life, named after the Turkish word for a soldier (šehid), and it was here that a group of headless Ottoman soldiers came to rest after the Battle of Banja Luka in 1737. Nope, no typos in there. You do not need to carry your head in your arms here, and Banj Brdo has recreational walking trails for all fitness levels.

Banski Dvor Cultural Centre

Banski Dvor Cultural Centre is where Ban Milosavljević’s Banja Luka project started, and it remains an integral part of life in the city today. It is one of the city’s most beautiful buildings and regularly hosts events of all kinds, from exhibitions to performances to conferences and festivals. Keep an eye on the website for upcoming events, or subscribe to this website’s newsletter. Actually, just do the latter. Trg srpskih vladara 2, +387 51 305 336

Cathedral of St Bonaventure

This isn’t your ordinary cathedral, although you don’t need me to explain that to you. Just look at the thing. The bell tower looks like it came from outer space if aliens had embraced the concept of building structures as gifts to deities. The Cathedral of St Bonaventure is the seat of the Banja Luka bishopric and was constructed by Drvar-born Alfred Pichler following the 1969 earthquake. That very same man is buried in its gardens. Kralja Petra I Karađorđevića 80, +387 51 305 984

Ferhadija Mosque

Bosnia and Herzegovina has no shortage of magnificent mosques, and Banja Luka’s Ferhadija (or Ferhat Pasha) Mosque is right up there with the best. Rebuilt after the most recent war, the mosque traces its lineage to when the Ottoman Empire was at the peak of its Balkan powers when Banja Luka was alive with the noise of trade and traction. Legend has it that the original was paid for with Habsburg ransom money, a curious juxtaposition to the stunning elegance of the 16th-century design. Kralja Petra I Karađorđevića, +387 51 211 840

Museum of Contemporary Art

As the name suggests, the Museum of Contemporary Art is the place to go in Banja Luka for, well, contemporary art. New exhibitions come through the door every few months, focusing on regional artists intent on pushing aesthetic boundaries. Colour, expect lots of colours. The building is striking in its own right, a late 19th century (1891) Austro-Hungarian era construction that started life as a railway station. It was converted into a museum in 1981. Trg srpskih junaka 2, +387 51 215 364

Museum of Republika Srpska

The name is misleading, as this is more a museum of the history of Banja Luka and the Vrbas region than RS. It has seen better days, although that shouldn’t diminish the importance and breadth of information held within. There is also taxidermy, which is always a good sign. The museum has a special exhibition about Jasenovac that is as impactful as you might expect. The last time I visited, the lights weren’t working. Đure Daničića 1, +387 51 215 973

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Let’s do this in order, right? Kafeterija 5 (Slobodana Kusturića 7, +387 66 130 298) is the gold standard of modern coffee shops in Banja Luka, and its setting in a residential area also helps it stand out from the mass of cafes in the city centre. Despite its wretched capitalisation, EkLEkTiK (Kralja Petra I Karađorđevića 65a, +387 66 549 920) is a charming small spot across the road from the Ferhadija Mosque. The real winner is Piccola (Pave Radana 2, +387 66 335 773), a teeny tiny coffee champion by Hotel Integra. Kolektiv (Hajduk Veljka 2, +387 65 684 451) also deserves some love. Booze-wise, Mac Tire Pub (Srpska 2-4, +387 51 221 444) is eternally busy, Master Craft Brewery (Bulevar vojvode Stepe Stepanovića 44, +387 65 916 917) is one of the best craft beers in the country, Gatsby (Kralja Petra I Karađorđevića 97, +387 66 915 915) is fancy schmancy, Jova Bar (Trg srpskih junaka 2, +387 66 999 999) isn’t far behind, and Peckham Pub (Braće Mažar i majke Marije 43, +387 66 631 422) is a pub called Peckham Pub in Banja Luka. You should go there.

Before getting into food, I want to repeat something I say often. Impero Romano (Srpskih vitezoa 1, +387 51 263 371) cooks the best pizza in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It isn’t even all that close. It seems to move address every few years, but it is worth following. Mala Stanica (Kralja Petra I Karađorđevića, +387 51 326 730) gets top billing elsewhere on the food front, while Kodiak (Sime Šolaje 1A, +387 56 828 080) serves excellent burgers. Yes, you can find ćevapi everywhere, but meat lovers should head either to Lovački (Slatinska 37, +387 51 312 243) or Aljoša & Saša (Njegoševa 28, +387 51 306 999), which is essentially a butcher shop with tables.

SLEEPING

Banja Luka has loads of hotels and apartments for all budgets. Hotel Integra (Kralja Petra I Karađorđevića 129, +387 51 493 420) and Hotel Jelena (Jovana Dučića 25, +387 51 329 200) are excellent options, while Koko (Karađorđeva 39, +387 65 324 067) and Vila Kobilj (Carice Milice 17, +387 65 002 999) tick the boxes for people after cheaper accommodation. There is a Marriott, but I can’t afford such things. Hotel Cezar (Dr Mladena Stojanovića 123, +387 51 326 400) is also a good option by the bus station.

READ MORE

24 Hours in Banja Luka

From Mud, He Extracted Lemonade

Job Found Himself in the Sun

White Guy, With a Moustache, About Six Foot Three

Ferhadija Mosque and a Rhythm Section

You Are More Than Welcome to Leave Us Alone