JEZERO city guide — John W Bills

Before the war, Jezero was a part of the Jajce municipality, but the Dayton Accords put an end to that. The inter-entity boundary ran right through these parts, necessitating the creation of a separate Jezero municipality in Republika Srpska. That’s what we have here today: a teeny-tiny urban centre surrounded by spectacular mountains and glistening waters. Fewer than 2,000 people live in Jezero, many of whom are elderly and unemployed. There is heaps of potential here, especially from a tourist point of view, although it feels a little dismissive to focus on that. Still, the waters teem with life and adventure, the Pliva Lake is incredible, and it isn’t difficult to see nature tourism kicking off here in the not-too-distant future.

TRANSPORT

Jezero is a teeny-tiny town, so don’t expect a bus station. Buses stop here on the run between Šipovo and Mrkonjić Grad, so wait by the church for the latter and near the sports hall and police station for the former. You might be able to jump on buses going to Jajce from here, although I can’t guarantee that. To get to Plivsko Jezero, a taxi is your best bet, although more energetic readers can always walk.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Pliva Lakes

The magnificent Pliva Lakes are most closely associated with Jajce, and the abundance of delights over there makes it clear why. However, you do need to consider why this municipality is called Jezero, right? Jezero was a part of Jajce before the war and subsequently sliced off in the Dayton Accords, and the aforementioned magnificent lakes straddle the two today. So while Jajce gets the mills, the hotels, the cafes and the attention, Jezero gets a charming walk and the tranquillity these places should embody. The Pliva River runs through Jezero towards the lake, adding another layer of magic to the experience.

Temple of the Holy Martyr Prince Lazar

While I’m not entirely sure if Prince Lazar was an official holy martyr, names are secondary to spiritual meaning when it comes to houses of worship. There has been a church here in some form or another since the arrival of the Austro-Hungarians, with a more robust stone building replacing the original wooden structure in 1924. The church was burned down by the NDH in World War II, rebuilt following the war, and burned down once more in 1995, only to rise from the ashes once again. Today, it is the centre of spiritual life in the small village of Jezero. Vidovdanska

Sultan Bayezid Mosque

Also known as the Emperor’s Mosque, the Sultan Bayezid Mosque in Jezero has a long and tumultuous history. Well, it wasn’t tumultuous for the most part, as the mosque sat peacefully here from its construction in the first third of the 16th century, only to be destroyed in 1992 at the beginning of the war. It has since been rebuilt, and a monument to those murdered at the same time is found in the courtyard. Among the names are those of an 85 or 86-year-old man and a boy who could have been as young as 12. Meše Selimovića

Old Railway Station

Trains don’t run through Jezero anymore, but the still-standing old station reminds us all of a time when the clanging of a locomotive was common. The station (now a national monument on account of its architectural grace) was constructed in 1913, ostensibly the only real legacy of Austro-Hungarian influence here. Of course, there was no desire to enrich the people of Jezero with its construction, and its only function was to plunder Bosnia’s mineral wealth, but here we are. Jezero was on the line running from Jajce to Srnetica, a now desolate village in Istočni Drvar. It continued functioning well into the 20th century, with the last train coming through in 1970. Željeznička

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

There aren’t too many food and drink options in Jezero itself, although Kafana Alen (21. Novembra) is a friendly little spot for mediocre coffee in a gorgeous setting. It also happens to be a butchery if you’re looking for some meat. Instead, head to spots on the lake for your food and drink requirements.

SLEEPING

As above, there’s little accommodation to be found in Jezero proper, although that’s to be expected from a village. The best plan is to stay at Hotel Plivsko Jezero and spend the day exploring the area in and around Jezero itself.

JEZERO