KOSTAJNICA
© WikiMedia Commons
The life of a border town isn’t a simple one. Throughout the centuries, Kostajnica has lived on the edges, dealing with the overzealous ambitions of powers in every direction, with everyone and their dog attempting to claim it at some point. It has grown, and it has shrunk, and today’s Kostajnica remains at the mercy of the demarcation on which it sits. It is a darling place, with friendly people and a busy sense of direction. Kostajnica is synonymous with chestnuts, and much of the town’s fame comes from those delicious buggers. Kestenijada is the highlight of the events calendar, a celebration of chestnuts without equal. Kostajnica’s tourist team is small but perfectly formed, and the tourist info website is undoubtedly one of the best in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Svetosavska, +387 65 016 191, kostajnicaturizam.com, kostajnicaturizam@gmail.com
TRANSPORT
Buses in Kostajnica leave from next to the Kort supermarket (Svetosavska 16), and the town is well connected for somewhere of its size. The town has three daily direct buses to Belgrade that stop in Prijedor, Banja Luka, Bijeljina, Brčko and others, with departures at 06:30, 08:30 and 18:30. Buy your tickets on the bus, and settle in for the ride. Kostajnica sees a lot of traffic throughout the day, what with it being smack-bang on the border and all that.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
© John Bills
Municipal Building
What a gorgeous building this is. Kostajnica’s Municipal Building might not function in its original form (the 2020 earthquake necessitated a move to a nearby structure), but the building remains the shining light in the town’s architectural crown. A Pseudo-Moorish stunner constructed in 1887, it echoes similar designs found in Sarajevo and Brčko, with its red and yellow stripes, decorative windows, horseshoe arches and undeniable sense of grandeur. The structural damage caused by the earthquake means exploring the interior is off the cards for now, but there is more than enough to love about this place from the outside. Svetosavska 11, +387 52 663 139
Court Building
While it might not have the grandeur of the original Municipality Building, Kostajnica’s historic court is a gorgeous structure in its own right. Prevailing wisdom suggests it was constructed in 1885 and registered a couple of years later, and it has served many functions since, all of which can be linked to the day-to-day running of a small border town. It also served as an orphanage immediately following World War II. As with many older buildings in Kostajnica, it was damaged during the 2020 earthquake, but its beauty remains undiminished.
© John Bills
Church of the Holy Trinity
There is a peaceful quality to Kostajnica’s central Orthodox Church that appeals. The original Church of the Holy Trinity was erected in 1886, but the tumultuous 20th century brought destruction before a resurrection of sorts in 1976. There have been further additions since, and what stands before us today is a charming church with white and pink accents, imposing and endearing all at once.
© John Bills
Azizija Mosque
Kostajnica’s Azizija Mosque is jarringly enormous, although maybe it is only I that is jarred. No, it is the children who are wrong. It is one of the largest mosques in Republika Srpska, a rebuild constructed on the site of the 1862 original, named after then-Ottoman Sultan Abdul Aziz, the first Ottoman Sultan to travel personally to the west. The mosque is gorgeous, as all mosques tend to be.
© John Bills
Nevenka Stanisavljević Library
Libraries are magical things we need to start appreciating, so nip into Kostajnica’s house of books when visiting. Established in 1995, the Nevenka Stanisaljević Library contains books of all shapes and sizes and is staffed by some delightful folks; you might even get a cup of coffee and a charming conversation for your troubles. The library also hosts cultural events throughout the year, including book promotions and other extravaganzas. Mladena Stojanovića 3, +387 52 663 151
BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES
Domaćin © Turistička Organizacije opštine Kostajnica
As with many border towns, Kostajnica has plenty of food and drink options focusing on efficiency over frills. Domaćin (Trg Kralja Petra I Oslobodioca 23, +387 66 801 121) and Kesten (Trg Kralja Petra I Oslobodioca, +387 66 936 058) serve excellent grilled meat in austere settings, which is precisely where excellent grilled meat should be served. Cafe-wise, Level (Svetosavska 11a, +387 52 665 300) is decent, and the cafe in the Kort supermarket (Svetosavska 16, +387 52 490 495) serves up a good espresso, but you can’t go wrong anywhere. There used to be a rock pub in Kostajnica, but those days are long gone, and I am genuinely sad about this. Do stop by the building to check out the art. Caffe Bar Pub (Trg Kralja Petra I Oslobodioca) is a good place for a quiet beer or three.
SLEEPING
© Turistička Organizacija opštine Kostajnica
A short walk from the town centre, Motel Jelen (Ranko Šipke bb, +387 52 663 562) is cheap, cheerful and comfortable, with friendly owners and plenty of space. There is a gas station next door for all your snacking needs.
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