KOTOR VAROŠ city guide

Roman basilicas, medieval stećci, elegant churches and graceful mosques, they have all been found in and around Kotor Varoš, but you have to dig deep to feel such things today. Located just 20 miles south of Banja Luka, Kotor Varoš feels like a commuter town struggling to maintain its relevance, although putting that in words feels somewhat cruel. There are many reasons to stop here on the way to Banja Luka (all outlined below), but Kotor Varoš is one of many municipalities in the country that could do with a change in luck.

TRANSPORT

Alas, Kotor Varoš doesn’t have a bus station in the traditional sense, but then what else should I expect from a small town of 8,000 or so folks? Buses stop at the bus stops (shocking, I know), with stops next to the Apartman Brko and the Catholic Church in town. Kotor Varoš is on the road between Teslić and Banja Luka, so it has decent connections to both, with a daily connection to Istočno Sarajevo (via Teslić and Doboj).

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Kotor Varoš City Hall

I’m almost certainly overreacting, but the new City Hall in Kotor Varoš feels very out of place. The town, charming as it is, is going through a bit of an economic crisis, so this sparkling, modern construction seems like a bit of a kick in the teeth. It dominates its square and almost acts as a third monument here, alongside the World War II memorial and the one for soldiers who died in the most recent war. Again, I’m almost certainly overreacting, but there we are. Cara Dušana, +387 51 784 230

Kotorgrad

Also known as Hrvoje’s Castle, this dilapidated, destroyed and neglected collection of meticulously ordered stone is all that remains of an imposing 14th-century fortress. It was here that medieval nobleman and Grand Duke of Bosnia (among other things) Hrvoje Vukčić spent his favourite days. Hrvoje Vukčić Hrvatinić is thought to have been born in these parts, and I dare say he’ll be rolling in his grave at the fate of his former estate. The Ottomans conquered this stage in 1519, and the death of the fortress was a slow one of the thousand cuts variety. Today, it is rubble.

Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary

I apologise if I’ve got the name wrong, but I didn’t want to put “the massive Catholic Church in the centre of town.” That is exactly what this place is, a hulking white construction with two imposing bell towers and a structure that screams substantial. Catholics make up less than 3% of Kotor Varoš today (5.6% of the wider municipality), but turn the clock back 50 years, and that figure rises to 40%. Catholicism has long played a vital role in daily life here, and no amount of blurry-eyed, misguided nationalism will change that. The parish was first mentioned in 1623, and the Catholic Church in town was constructed in 1891, although it took its current aesthetic in 1987. The aforementioned blurry-eyed, misguided folk tried to destroy it in 1992 but only succeeded in damaging it. Remember that part about being substantial? Yeah, that. The bells still toll today, a reverberating grumble that proudly echoes across town. Cara Dušana

Donji Varoš Mosque

The more accessible of the mosques in Kotor Varoš, the Donji Varoš Mosque is located in the neighbourhood of the same name, a short walk from the centre of town. It was opened in 1938 on land donated by the Imamović family and did its thing until it was dynamited by the VRS in 1992, and the local Muslim population was killed or expelled. The mosque has been rebuilt and stands as a picturesque image of defiance in the 21st century. Svetozara Miletića, +387 51 785 052

Temple of the Nativity of the Theotokos

There is not much information available about the main Orthodox Church in Kotor Varoš outside of what can be gleaned from looking at it. The church follows the standard for newly built churches in parts of the country dominated by the Orthodox faith, and the interior is the usual mixture of sombre worship and vibrant icons. The red and orange trim of the facade is reprised inside, which is a nice touch. Cara Dušana 81, +387 51 783 999

Partisan Memorial Ossuary

As with many memorials erected to those who died fighting fascism in World War II, the Partisan Memorial Ossuary in Kotor Varoš is in a miserable state. You don’t need me to tell you this is a shame; that goes without saying, and ideology and ethnicity have nothing to do with that. Completed in 165, the ossuary was the work of Nedźad Hotić and is located at the southern entrance of Kotor Varoš, next to the City Hall, although it is somewhat obscured behind some trees. The usual motifs are found (stars, statements of pride, names), and there used to be a bust of Rade Ličina, a student turned military commander who died in battle here. The bust has disappeared, and the memorial is in desperate need of some care and respect. Cara Dušana

Old Primary School

Objectively the most beautiful building in Kotor Varoš, the Old Primary School (well, Mješovita Državna Narodna Osnovna Škola, to be exact) is in a desperate state. Constructed at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, the school was a triumph of Neo-Renaissance expression, built under the watchful eyes of Mate and Jakov Blaźić and one of the first modern schools in the area, bringing literacy and curiosity to new generations of boys and girls. Alas, time is a cruel mistress, and neglect is its most merciless weapon. The school closed in the second half of the 20th century and was eventually used as emergency accommodation for refugees following the war, which in turn led to the government abandoning its upkeep. Garbage piled up, and the rats weren’t far behind. Today, the building is on the verge of collapse, although some work was being done on my last visit to Kotor Varoš. The school’s future is an oft-echoed tale that is as much a lament as a plea. The city doesn’t want to tear it down (and it certainly shouldn’t even entertain the idea) but doesn’t have the money to repair it. Local investors aren’t bothered, more interested as they are in vulgar displays of wealth. We’re left with a gorgeous building of history and heritage that is crumbling before our eyes. Cara Dušana

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

There are more than enough food and drink options in Kotor Varoš, unless you are the sort of person who needs to visit 50 places in a single day. If you are, get help. Starting with food, Mila Mi (Stefana Nemanje, +387 65 641 799) serves a fine range of traditional and international classics, while Elitte Bella Italia (Cara Dušana 62, +387 51 924 000) is the place to go for pizza and pasta. Drinks-wise, Palazzo (Cara Dušana), Elli Bar (Cara Dušana, +387 65 799 799), Faraon (Stefana Nemanje), and Cafe Gallery (Cara Dušana) are all decent options, with Palazzo coming out on top.

SLEEPING

Apartman Brko (Cara Dušana, +387 65 312 997) is the place to go for a good night’s sleep in Kotor Varoš, and not just because of the awesome moustache branding. The owners are delightful, the apartments are clean and compact, and the property is located next to one of the bus stops in Kotor Varoš. Perfect, right? It’s also pretty much the only place in the town centre, but that’s merely a bonus.

KOTOR VAROŠ