KOZARSKA DUBICA city guide

Kozarska Dubica (formerly called Bosanska Dubica) is a charming little town in the north of the country, nestled comfortably between the Kozara and Prosara mountains. It was a place of strife for centuries, although a cursory glance at a map should clarify that, with powerful nations fighting over the right to rule. Am I here to discuss 18th-century wars between Habsburg Austria and Ottoman Turkey? Heck no, I’m here to talk about significant milk production, a delightful pedestrian area, one of the region’s most marvellous monasteries, wellness, restoration, and more. Philip Zepter was born here in 1950, although his mother calls him Milan Janković. The tourist info team are magnificent, and that is an understatement.

TRANSPORT

Kozarska Dubica has a bus station (Kralja Petra I Oslobodioca, +387 52 225 213), but it doesn’t seem to work. Of course, by that, I mean the ticket office, as buses still arrive and depart throughout the day, with KD marking the midpoint between Banja Luka and Gradiška. There is a cafe, a toilet, and a cool sign. What more do you want?

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Moštanica Monastery

12km from Kozarska Dubica, Moštanica Monastery is a triumph of serenity. That hasn’t always been the case, as this monastery has been destroyed and rebuilt at least nine times in its history, but don’t let a tumultuous story get in the way of utter tranquillity. A registered monument since 1961, Moštanica is a large complex that doesn’t feel imposing, quite the opposite; this monastery is a familiar arm around the shoulder and a hot cup of coffee, all soundtracked by the eponymous stream. Plenty of stories are attached to this place, but the serenity is the highlight. It has to be. Serenity isn’t exactly the case on August 19, when Moštanica celebrates its very existence with joyous crowds, picnics and more. Gornjoselci, +387 66 269 086

National Library

Kozarska Dubica’s library might not immediately jump out as a special place, other than the obvious value of literature, but nip inside, and you’ll find something truly unique. The library houses a lithograph of none other than Pablo Picasso, supposedly given to Boško Šiljegović (Partisan and editor of Yugoslavia’s first military encyclopaedia) at a Communist congress in 1964. The lithograph was kept secret for years, but now that secret is out. Svetosavska 21, +387 52 416 036

Donja Gradina

It is a strange twist of human existence that moments of horror often take place in areas of serenity. Donja Gradina is one such spot, a peaceful place on the right bank of the Una whose name is synonymous with tragedy. It was here that tens of thousands of people were murdered by the Ustaša during World War II. The thoughtful memorial honours those killed by fascist forces, an open-air museum punctuated by education and tragedy. The Jasenovac memorial is just across the border in Croatia. Demirovac, +387 52 446 031

Sulejmanija & Čaršijska Mosques

Two mosques stand tall in the centre of Kozarska Dubica, both initially constructed in the 17th century and rebuilt following the destruction of the most recent war. The Čaršijska Mosque (Svetosavska) was the first brick mosque built here, while the harem of the Sulejmanija (Petrovdanska, also known as the City Mosque) Mosque has been designated a national monument.

Church of St. Peter and St. Paul

Peter and Paul are inseparable; the same remains true in Kozarska Dubica. The original church was constructed in 1895, but the tumult of the 20th century did a number on it before reconstruction not so long ago. The church is the centre of a whole complex, with a church house and school, among other facilities. The interior is delightful, with frescoes and a charming sense of peace. Vidovdanska, +387 65 645 894

Milk Monument

I don’t really want to mention it, and everyone I spoke to in Kozarska Dubica thinks it is a little silly, but how can I not mention a milk carton statue? That is what you’ll find on a roundabout in the town centre, a nod to the town’s history as a big-time dairy producer in these parts. There isn’t much else to say. It is a statue of milk. There is no statue like it in the country.

Mlječanica Hospital

Don’t be put off by the H word, as Mllječanica is something of a haven for those searching for revitalisation. The spa village is 14km south of Kozarska Dubica, and its healing powers were first publicised in the late 19th century but strangely remained solely the interest of locals until the building of the spa in the 1980s. It has been all steam ahead ever since, with people making the pilgrimage to heal everything from rheumatism to trauma. Međuvode, +387 52 444 100

Etno Selo Knežica

Kozarska Dubica’s entry into the great hall of etno selos is Knežica, a charming little spot that is all about tradition and relaxation. Constructed in 2012, Knežica is part museum and part village, a gorgeous window into the past that doubles up as a venue for cultural extravaganzas throughout the year. The village of Knežica is a little south of Kozarska Dubica, not too far from Mlječanica, so why not double up your recuperation with a spot of heritage? Knežica

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

The main pedestrian drag in Kozarska Dubica is lined with bars, restaurants and cafes, offering plenty of choice and plenty to like. The exterior of Stari Bagrem (Svetosavska, +387 52 417 222) singles it out as somewhere for traditional dishes, although the interior and menu are more international than one might expect. The little square at the end of the street also has several cafes ready to serve coffee all day long, and anywhere called Wizard (Zepter Plato, Svetosavska 2, +387 612 257) gets a thumbs up from me.

SLEEPING

Hotel Zepter (Svetosavska 2, +387 52 424 242) is right on the border with Croatia, with many balconies looking out across the river. That gives it a darling setting and comfortable beds make everything that little bit better. The cafe is decent too. There are also spa facilities, so you can relax in the sauna before settling in for the night.

READ MORE

Worship and Tribute

KOZARSKA DUBICA