MRKONJIĆ GRAD city guide

The artist formerly known as Novo Jajce, Varcar Vakuf, and others, Mrkonjić Grad is a hilly little town in the heart of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Insert the bit about inhabited since antiquity here, but it wasn’t until the 20th century that things started to move here. Did that coincide with it taking the Mrkonjić Grad name in 1924? I’m not at liberty to divulge such information, but I’m not about to deny it either. Mrkonjić Grad was the site of the first ZAVNOBiH meeting (more on that shortly) and was also where American pilot Scott O’Grady hid and survived for a week after his plane was shot down by VRS soldiers in 1995. O’Grady went on to become something of a conspiracy nut, but trying circumstances do strange things to humans. What of Mrkonjić Grad today? The town is plenty charming (and plenty hilly), but the real magic lies in its surroundings, from the inspiring Pecka Visitor Centre to the spectacular magic of the Bočac Valley.

TRANSPORT

Mrkonjić Grad, your hills, your damn hills. The bus station (Sportska, +387 50 211 093) is at the entrance to town on one such gradient, to the point where you can see it from various points in the city. My laziness is to blame for any negativity here, of course. The station is relatively simple, with a little waiting room, toilet (0.50km to use), and the usual nonplussed staff in the ticket office. Mrkonjić Grad has frequent connections to Banja Luka and Šipovo, along with occasional jaunts further afield to Mostar, Prijedor, Livno and Derventa, and even some buses to Germany. Yes, Germany. Aachen, to be exact.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

House of the 1st ZAVNOBiH Session

Jajce and Bihać get plenty of press when it comes to Tito and his boys meeting to discuss Yugoslavia, but Mrkonjić Grad stands above them all. Well, regarding seniority, at least, as this unassuming building on the modern roundabout in Mrkonjić Grad played host to the very first ZAVNOBiH (the State Anti-fascist Council for the National Liberation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, to you and I) session, on November 25, 1943. Plans were made for the re-establishment of the Bosnian state, which answers your questions about why November 25 is celebrated as Statehood Day in BiH. Around 250 councillors met and discussed all manner of things long into the night, setting up a working structure and making plans to meet again. The building, constructed in the late 19th century, was owned by the Gasić family, who ran a cafe there before it became a holding point for Partisan supplies and logistics. With almost depressing predictability, the house in Mrkonjić was neglected for a long while but has since been restored. Not quite celebrated, but restored, at least. Svetog Save 1

Lake Balkana

Located just 3 miles or so west of the bus station, Lake Balkana defies its generic name to shimmer as a glorious excursion spot when the sun shines high above. Much like those dorks who insist on pointing out that Budapest is actually two cities, I will do the same and remind you that Lake Balkana is actually two lakes, but quibble, quibble. The artificial lake is popular with swimmers and anglers, and Balkana Hotel is arguably the best choice in the immediate vicinity of town. Brdo

Temple of Saint Sava

Following in the footsteps of many other churches in the country, the Temple of Saint Sava in Mrkonjić Grad takes its aesthetic cues from the Gračanica Monastery in Kosovo. That means a cobbled look of grace and imposing confidence, topped with golden domes and containing all the icons and frescoes required. The church is massive, which might explain the 11 years it took to complete (work began in 2007 and ended in 2018), and it is visible from many vantage points across the city. For whatever reason, the grassy cross on the grounds was my personal highlight.

Kizlar-aga Mosque

The Kizlar-aga Mosque in Mrkonjić Grad reopened in April 2024, a triumph for those who respect the heritage of the place. Mrkonjić Grad grew around the mosque when it was constructed in the late 16th century (at some point between 1591 and 1595), even catching the eye of your travel writing god, Evliya Çelebi, who was particularly fond of the vakuf’s atmosphere. Commissioned by Mustafa-aga, the Kizlar-aga Mosque is of the single-space domed variety, with a charming minaret and šadrvan fountain nearby. It once housed an enormous carpet from Istanbul, but that was destroyed by Austrian soldiers in 1878 because humans are awful. The mosque was again destroyed by Serb forces in 1993, and the plot of land was used as a car park until common sense prevailed and the mosque was rebuilt. Karađorđeva

Temple of the Nativity of the Most Holy Mother of God

Or the Temple of the Birth of the Blessed Virgin, if you prefer. This beautiful church traces its lineage to the late 19th century when it was constructed on the site of an older church that had succumbed to a major fire in town. A meeting place in Mrkonjić for followers of the Orthodox faith, it was destroyed in World War II, rebuilt in 1960, and then destroyed again by Croat and Muslim soldiers at the end of the most recent war. Rinse, repeat. As with the Kizlar-aga Mosque, common sense has prevailed, and the church was reconstructed in the 21st century. Sime Šolaje

Bočac Fortress

In reality, that heading could easily be Bočac Fortress, Gorge, Lake, Town and Valley, but brevity is important. The fortress is at the heart of its importance, at least in a historical sense, although the long abandoned fortification is a distant second to the views in terms of modern pull. Nobody seems to know exactly when the fortress was constructed (it was first mentioned in the first half of the 15th century), and it is widely agreed that it was abandoned before 1833, but the walls on the left bank of the Vrbas remain relatively well-preserved. Not the easiest to get to, as the structure stands on a largely inaccessible rocky cliff, so good luck with that. There’s not a whole lot I can say about the winding contours of the Bočac Valley, but the aforementioned views really do speak for themselves. There is also an artificial lake of the same name, which straddles the border between Mrkonjić Grad, Kneževo and Banja Luka. Dabrac

Eco Zone Zelenkovac

A glorious green oasis with history and creativity at its core? Welcome to Zelenkovac. This magical mountain excursion resort not far from Podrašnica (14km from Mrkonjić Grad) started as a collection of old watermills, but it was given a new lease on life when artist Borislav Janković converted one mill into a studio, starting a movement in the process. That was 1998, and Zelenkovac soon became a hotspot for events, art colonies, excursions, festivals and the rest. Fast forward to today and this gorgeous eco zone at the foot of Lisina is a popular place to get away from it all and embrace creativity along the way. There are plenty of sleeping options from mills to bungalows, a communal kitchen designed for maximum social contact and a defiant streak of autonomy at the heart of it all. There are direct buses to and from Banja Luka, and Mrkonjić Grad is a short taxi ride away. Podrašnica, +387 50 278 649

Church of Saints Philip and James

Mrkonjić Grad has a long history of Catholic worship, and this winsome church has been at the heart of it since its original completion in 1883 (the bell tower was completed in 1889). The curves of the structure gave it an alluring quality, although its aesthetic delights haven’t been enough to save it from destruction on multiple occasions, most notably in 1944 and 1992. The church was thankfully restored in recent years. Njegoševa 17, +387 50 213 965

Pecka Visitor Centre

Where to begin? Pecka Visitor Centre is an absolute triumph in every possible way, from its initial purpose to its modern ambition and the scope of its activities and beyond, Located in Gornja Pecka (30km or so from Mrkonjić Grad, 20km from Šipovo), it started life as a simple information centre, providing accurate info for anyone interested in the local area and a setting for quality local products to get some attention. Actually, that isn’t entirely accurate, as the building itself started life as the local primary school, functioning from 1931 to 1985. Pecka has grown and grown in the years since, becoming a centre of education, gastronomy, creativity and activity. The centre is an excellent base for energetic activities in the area (think hiking, climbing, cycling and more), with space for up to 30 people to stay overnight and up to 50 to dine. Sustainable development is at the heart of everything, and it has likewise become a popular spot for preschool excursions and primary schools, establishments eager to get young folk interacting with nature. Then, there is the annual Pecka Outdoor Festival, a two-day celebration of activity and nature that is among the best in the region. Throw in some agricultural production, themed trails and being at the forefront of improving access to the source of the Sana River, and you’ve got one of the most important and impressive success stories in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Ten stars. Gornja Pecka 158, +387 65 619 508

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Mrkonjić Grad proper isn’t too hot on the brews, booze and bites front. That is almost an understatement, as the pickings really are slim. Dionis (Trg Kralja Petra I Karađorđevića bb) and Picasso (Svetog Save, +387 66 744 797) provide the drinks, while Mozart is as good as it gets on the food front, although I’m also partial to the occasional meat at Kort supermarket (Zmaj Jovina bb, +387 65 341 595). I know, I know. The real culinary value here is in heading out into nature, namely Hotel Balkana (Balkana bb, +387 50 212 505), Pecka Visitor Centre (Gornja Pecka 158, +387 65 619 508), and Eco Zone Zelenkovac (Podrašnica, +387 50 278 649).

SLEEPING

As with the food and drink, the town itself is light on accommodation options, with a few private apartments representing the extent of the choice. Not to worry, as Hotel Balkana (Balkana bb, +387 50 212 505) is nearby and serves up a stunning location on the lake of the same name. If you really want to immerse yourself in nature, book a night at either Eco Zone Zelenkovac (Podrašnica, +387 50 278 649) or Pecka Visitor Centre (Gornja Pecka 158, +387 65 619 508), and get ready for a quite magnificent experience.

MRKONJIĆ GRAD