NOVI GRAD city guide — John W Bills

Proof that you don’t need an interesting moniker to be fascinating, Novi Grad belies its generic name to surprise and impress. Its history isn’t particularly eventful, stopping along most of the usual signposts (a mention in the 13th century, Ottomans, Croatian nobles, Austria-Hungary, Yugoslavia), and you get a glimpse of those eras through its architecture, but Novi Grad shines brightest because of the water and the people. Maybe the former informs the latter, I’m not sure, but there is much to enjoy here. The Austrians referred to the town as Bosanski Novi, a name that stuck until the end of the most recent war. The tourist info team are remarkable, full of information, recommendations and always happy to help you make the most of your time in the town. I can’t sing their praises enough. There is also curious cheese, a gorgeous riverside walkway, and arguably the most beautiful building in Bosnia and Herzegovina. +387 52 752 522

TRANSPORT

It is easy to imagine that Novi Grad bus station was once a bustling hive of activity, but those days are gone. What remains is platforms and platforms only, with the nearby gas station filling in the blanks. There are plenty of buses, and the station is well-located across the river from the town centre. The train station is nearby, with daily connections to Banja Luka.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

City Hall

I will come right out and say that Novi Grad’s City Hall is a top-five building in Bosnia and Herzegovina. A Pseudo-Moorish stunner sitting smack-bang on the border with Croatia, the City Hall was constructed in 1888 and is gorgeous, a beautiful building that manages to be unique and familiar all at once. It isn’t the biggest City Hall in BiH, but you won’t find many more beautiful pieces of architecture here. It houses city administration, tourist info and more, including the Heritage Museum and a small gallery.

Heritage Museum

Small but perfectly formed, the Heritage Museum in Novi Grad (found in the gorgeous City Hall) showcases the ethnographic and archaeological heritage of the area, focusing mainly on the life and work of Milan Karanović. Born in 1882, Karanović spent much of his time exploring these parts, starting as a hobby researcher and becoming one of the most influential ethnographers of the time. There is also a small art gallery with local paintings. Be sure to check ahead for opening times, but it is worth the wait.

National Library

Novi Grad’s National Library would be the standout architectural gem in any other city. There is no shame in coming second to the City Hall, however, and the library shimmers and shines with a memorable jut on the corner and a cavalcade of books inside. It is the oldest cultural institution in the city, and hosts exhibitions, readings, literary evenings and more, making it Novi Grad’s cultural beating heart. Karađorđa Petrovića 2, +387 52 751 260

Majka Partizanka Monument

Novi Grad’s Yugoslav-era spomenik is more than striking with most. The role played by mothers takes centre stage through a large bronze statue of a woman with a withered breast, faded from giving all to the fight against fascism. A 10-metre-long relief extends from the sculpture, telling the tale of that brutal war, accentuated by lines from a poem by Skender Kulenović. The monument is in the centre of Novi Grad, in a park of the same name (Majka Partizanka, not Novi Grad. Keep up).

© Turistička Organizacija Novi Grad // Facebook.com

Kej

Who doesn’t love a languid stroll on the riverbanks in the summer? Novi Grad is defined by its relationship to water, and there is no better way to embrace this than by slathering on the sun cream and traversing the quay. The 3km walled embankment is Novi Grad at its most delightful, although there is more to this than simple serenity. It underwent various stages of construction depending on who was in charge, with the Austrians starting in 1903. The final part was completed in 1985. You don’t need me to give you much inspiration here; go and walk along the quay already.

Lješljani

20km from Novi Grad on the road to Kostajnica is Lješljani, a recreational wellness area famous for its hyper-alkaline water and healing qualities. Seriously, using the term ‘hyper’ isn’t an exaggeration; wait until you smell this stuff. Don’t be put off by the smell of eggs because this isn’t your average water. The consistency is a little different, the temperature is magnificently consistent, and it might just make you feel like a brand new person. There is a small cafe-restaurant next to the spring and accommodation options in the vicinity.

Krajiški Sir

Cheese of all shapes and sizes, but, more importantly, cheese of all different flavours. They do things a little differently here, experimenting with different ingredients to create utterly unique cheese. Oregano, pepper, walnut, you name it, you can probably try it at Krajiški Sir. It is an independent cheese factory just outside Novi Grad that is small in stature but vast in ambition, so call ahead and see if you can stop by to sample some of their creations. If you do, be sure to buy some. Support local businesses and all that. Donji Rakani 79, +387 66 475 246

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Dukat (Nikole Pašića bb, +387 52 753 676) is a traditional restaurant in Novi Grad serving all the classics with charming decor and good service. Elsewhere, Venecija (Lazara Drljače, +387 52 751 622) is an eternally-busy pizzeria for a reason, while Adeptio (Dobrile Grubor 9b, +387 52 751 014) covers food and drink from morning until night. Caffe Bar Star (Kej Vojvode Stepe, +387 52 752 392) is an excellent place for a cup of coffee, while it would be silly of me to ignore the setting of Domaćin (Kej Vojvode Stepe, +387 66 300 892), a riverside spot with food and drink in ample supply.

SLEEPING

There are many sleeping options in and around Novi Grad, and the tourist board frequently posts new spots on social media. Unske Terase (Branka Ćopića 82, +387 65 497 867) is a stunning choice, 4km south of the town but an absolute oasis of tranquillity, run by a gorgeous family with conversation for days. In the town, there are many private apartments and a couple of decent motels. Will Hotel Una ever rise from its obliterated brutalist ashes? Probably not, but it makes for one heck of a photo.

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