PRIJEDOR city guide — John W Bills

Damn good cafes in Prijedor, that’s for sure. One of the largest cities in the country (the third largest in Republika Srpska, no less) with around 100,000 folks calling it home, Prijedor follows a familiar tale from ancient inhabitation to hot potato status among regional rulers before the Ottomans came in and took charge. The Austro-Hungarians eventually took over before Yugoslavia did its thing in the 20th century. Located on the slopes of Kozara (Kozara National Park largely falls within the municipality’s boundaries), Prijedor developed through industry and natural resources (think gypsum, iron ore, limestone, wood, and more) but shines brightest through its rich artistic heritage. It is particularly revered as a city of painters, giving the vibrant murals an extra layer of value. Prijedor has suffered mightily in its history (there were massacres here in World War II and some of the most violent ethnic cleansing of the most recent war), and separating the city from its tumult is difficult. However, beneath the struggles lies creativity, hope, optimism and some damn good cafes. I’m not joking about the latter.

TRANSPORT

A nice little personal story about Prijedor bus station (Petra Petrovića Njegoša, +387 52 240 150). Whenever I visit or call, I ask the blonde woman if she speaks English. She always, without fail, tells me that I speak her language. I think it is friendly, I can’t speak for her. Prijedor bus station is in the centre of town, and the city is well-connected to everywhere in the north, from Bihać to Banja Luka and onwards to Doboj, Brčko and Bijeljina. There are also direct buses to Istočno. Prijedor train station (next to the bus station) is connected to Novi Grad, Banja Luka and Doboj. There may or may not be anyone working in there; depends on how lucky you are. Either way, you can get your ticket on the train, and the Cyrillic timetable is in the station building.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Murals

Prijedor isn’t the only city in Bosnia and Herzegovina with excellent street art, but the murals here are better than most. After all, where else can you see a massive scene from Super Mario painted on the side of an apartment building? Prijedor has established itself as a City of Murals thanks to pieces like Ljubiša Pušac’s Gejm On, Nataša Konjević’s The Hatter to Vidam’s Transformacija, all dotted around the city centre and bringing fun to blank concrete. Prijedor has a proud painting history (hey, Todor Švrakić!), and the playful murals are the latest evolution.

Čaršija Mosque

The oldest religious building in the city, Prijedor’s Čaršija Mosque stood here for almost 250 years before it was mindlessly destroyed in the most recent war. It traces its lineage back to the city’s 18th-century development (it is widely agreed that the mosque was constructed between 1745 and 1747), and its aesthetics maintain the Islamic love of tenderness and grace. Today, it stands out on the pedestrian drag, and the addition of creative murals makes for a curious image. Kralja Petra I Oslobodioca bb, +387 52 211 068

Church of the Holy Trinity

It obviously isn’t hidden, that wouldn’t be accurate at all, but Prijedor’s main Orthodox Church still manages to stay out of the limelight somewhat. Situated just off the pedestrian street (close to Hotel Prijedor), the church replaced a log structure that stood here before the big fire of 1882, the first consecration of the new structure taking place in 1891. The church is a beauty, further proof if proof were needed, that churches (and mosques, for that matter) are much more agreeable when they aren’t monolithic. Svetosavska, +387 52 232 999

Kozara Museum

Housed in one of the most beautiful museum buildings in the country (it was initially a communal school), the Museum of Kozara is packed with history detailing the cultural heritage of the region. The museum contains ethnology, history, art, and (of course) archaeology, but it might be the museum library that grabs the most attention. Packed with over 5,000 books, the library accentuates the collections in the exhibition rooms but also contains the collection of the Stojanović family and a deep dive into the life of Boško Baškot. Of course, the pink-red building is arguably the real treasure, but there is plenty of competition. Nikole Pašića, +387 52 211 334

Radetić Tower

There are many beautiful buildings in Prijedor. The only problem is that many of them have seen better days. Few rival the Radetić Tower, a late 19th-century homage to Neoclassicism that has been unoccupied and neglected for decades. It was constructed by a wealthy dude called Count Wilhelm von Reitz and eventually purchased by his rival, ending the argument over who had the tallest house. Rich people, you know? Kraja Petra I Oslobodioca

Sreten Stojanović Gallery

Located on Prijedor’s pedestrian drag, the Sreten Stojanović Gallery is a small but perfectly formed exhibition centre that showcases art throughout the year. Regional artists take up the lion’s share of the schedule, and you’ll find plenty of excellent conversations to be had with the folks working within. It’s no shock that Prijedor’s centre of art is named after Sreten Stojanović, the intensely serious Prijedor-born sculptor and art critic whose work is found throughout the former Yugoslavia. Zanatska, +387 52 213 305

Memorial House of the Stojanović Family

Sreten wasn’t the only member of the Stojanović family who was kind of a big deal. Mladen Stojanović wasn’t an artist (he was a physician by trade), but his tireless work and refusal to back down during World War II earned him a place in history as a war hero in the former Yugoslavia. A short walk from the gallery is the Memorial House of the Stojanović Family, which is exactly what the name suggests. The late-19th-century building was reconstructed in 2007 according to the original plans and contains an exhibition telling the story of the Stojanovićs. Dr Mladena Stojanovića, +387 52 211 334

Theatre Prijedor

Prijedor sure does love it some culture, which makes the abundance of excellent cafes even more understandable. Prijedor’s actors and directors began creating formal works in 1953, but it wasn’t until 1977 that the theatre building was constructed. There’s something charmingly nostalgic about it, and while there are little in the way of frills inside, the schedule is packed with well-paced shows and creativity. The cafe is more than decent. Branislava Nušića 11, +387 52 211 116

Church of St Joseph

Located next to the theatre, the Church of St Joseph is the congregation point for the remaining Catholics in Prijedor. The church was initially constructed in 1896, but if you’ve been paying any kind of attention, you’ll be right in assuming it has been subject to criminal violence over the century and a bit. It was damaged in World War II and demolished in the most recent war. Three priests have been murdered here (Josip Kaurinović in 1942, Josip Bockmann in 1945, and Tomislav Matanović [with his parents, no less] in 1995). The winsome church was rebuilt at the beginning of the 21st century, with work completed in 2012. Branislava Nušića 15, +387 52 233 512

Jelicka Wooden Church

Not many wooden churches remain in Bosnia and Herzegovina, so the ones you find should be celebrated. One such charmer sits in a little village called Jelicka, 30km south of Prijedor, a delightful little church with plenty more delights in its intimate interior. Call ahead to have a look inside.

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Preduzeće (Vuka Karadžića 15, +387 65 597 705), Vremeplov (Kralja Petra I Oslobodioca), Intermezzo (Vuka Karadžića 15, +387 65 140 851) and Balkan Cafe (Zanatska) are the finest coffee options, while Papa Joe (Kralja Petra I Oslobodioca, +387 52 214 494) remains undefeated as the main food spot in town. I’m not big on eating in shopping centres, but Lafayette (Kralja Petra I Oslobodioca, +387 66 955 000) is an excellent option with a short menu of international options. Remember, folks, a short menu is always better than a long one. Pizza Napoli (Dr. Mladena Stojanovića, +387 52 241 621) makes superb pies, if you’re looking for a pizza. Molly Malone (Kralja Petra I Oslobodioca, +387 52 234 788) and Beerland Pivnica (Kralja Aleksandra 33, +387 65 903 837) take care of the beer. Last time I was there, the owner of my apartment recommended a place if I was looking for a ‘kafana party’. I declined. I am old.

SLEEPING

Hotel Le Pont (Kralja Petra I Oslobodioca, +387 52 234 788) and Hotel Prijedor (Prote Mateja Nenadovića, +387 52 231 176) are the main hotel options in these parts, but the right move is to book with Apartment Bronx (Vuka Karadžića 30b, +387 66 644 464). The location is perfect for nipping around Prijedor, with the bus station, museum, main pedestrian street and finest cafes just a short walk away. The apartment itself is huge, has everything you’d need for a long or short stay (including a washing machine, laundry folks), and a delightfully personable owner. The hotels are both fine, if a little rundown, and Bronx is on the other end of the quality scale. Fan-flippin’-tastic.

PRIJEDOR