BIJELJINA
© John Bills
If you enter Bosnia and Herzegovina from Vojvodina or anywhere else in northern Serbia, Bijeljina will be your first major port of call. That is excellent news if you are looking for coffee because this place has some of the best cafes in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is also fantastic news if you are looking for various architectural styles, gorgeous surroundings, rollercoaster history and a raucous nightlife. Bijeljina is the fifth-largest city in Bosnia and Herzegovina, but it somehow feels like more than that. It is the heart of the Semberija region, a stretch of land between the Drina and Sava rivers, a place contested by all the regional powers until the Ottomans set up shop in the 1530s. Rebellion never ceased, of course. Funnily enough, the name Bijeljina only came into use following World War I; before then, the town was called Bjelina or Belina. I got that from Wikipedia though, so make your own mind up. It was one of the first places to suffer ethnic cleansing during the most recent war, as Serb militias ran amok following the Bosnia and Herzegovina Independence Referendum in March 1992. According to the 1991 census, 52% of the population was Bosniak. Today, that number has dropped to 10%.
TRANSPORT
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Bijeljina’s bus station (Meše Selimovića 1, +387 55 206 134) is a short walk from the main square and has a friendly ticket counter, a small shop and a vaguely working toilet. Buses whizz off to Banja Luka and Belgrade, with occasional departures going as far as Trebinje. That’s some heck of a journey.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
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Semberija Museum
Bijeljina is the largest city in the Semberija region, so finding the area’s definitive museum here is no great shock. You’ll discover archaeology, ethnology, history, temporary exhibitions, and the like. Karađorđeva 2, +387 55 201 293
© John Bills
City Hall
That’ll be the building of importance on the main square. What else to say? This is where things get done in Bijeljina, and the architecture is classical enough to warrant a photo or two. The square is pleasant enough, with various cafes and monuments. Trg Kralja Petra I Karađorđevića 1, +387 55 233 100
© John Bills
Monastery of St Basil of Ostrog
Smack bang in the centre of Bijeljina, the Monastery of St Basil of Ostrog is quite an impressive complex. It covers more than 3,500 square metres and comprises a temple, a gorgeous bell tower, and various other rooms and buildings that serve many functions, from lecture halls and libraries to the temporary headquarters of the Bishop of the Eparchy of Zvornik and Tuzla. The complex was completed in 1996 and is a world away from the bustle of modern Bijeljina, acting as a refuge of serenity from the world outside. The frescoes (inside and out) are gorgeous, and the whole thing shimmers with grandeur. Patrijarha Pavla, +387 55 222 300
© John Bills
Church of St George
Widely considered the oldest building in Bijeljina, the Church of St George has seen a thing or three. The architecture of the building touches on the usual Orthodox influences, but it is primarily the history and longevity of the building that make it stand out today. Bijeljina’s oldest high school still stands and still educates, although it is an elementary school today. Svetog Save 38
© Aleksandar Blanusa // Shutterstock.com
Monastery of St. Petka
The glistening onion domes of the Monastery of St. Petka are a striking sight, no matter the distance from which you view them. The monastery is around 3km from the centre of Bijeljina and is well worth the 40-minute (depending on your pace) walk. This is a female monastery, and it remains incomplete, but there is beauty in that. Who said that cathedrals, churches and monasteries should always remain unfinished, lest anyone claim to have completed something worthy of God? The Monastery of St. Petka is outside the village of Pet Jezera, northeast of the city. Mučenika Romanovih, +387 55 251 380
© John Bills
Dučić and Živanović House
It seems unorthodox to recommend a dilapidated house as an object of interest, but this is no ordinary house. This obliterated ruin is where Jovan Dućić met Magdalena Živanović, Bijeljina’s Romeo and Juliet. Yes, using those teenagers to echo tragic love is tiring, but what can I do? The ruins of the house are adorned with murals of the two lovers. Svetog Save 6
© John Bills
Stanišići
I’m on the fence with Stanišići, but the aesthetic splendour of it all is undeniable. This is the most famous Etno selo in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and while that means it is somewhat excessive, there’s still something about traditional architecture, quaint bridges, scenic trains and black swans that is worth paying attention to. There are a couple of hotels and restaurants here, although things get pretty busy in summer (and on holidays). The village is a short 7km drive east of Bijeljina. Pavlovića put 32, +387 65 513 738
© John Bills
Atik Mosque
The original was constructed in the middle of the 16th century, although this was more than just a mosque to the inhabitants of Bijeljina back in the day. It was used as a fortress during wars and was converted to a church when Austria took over in the 18th century. That back and forth continued into the 20th century, and the mosque was destroyed again in 1993. A decade passed before reconstruction and another before reopening, giving us the gorgeous structure we have in the city centre today. Vuka Karadžića, +387 55 226 250
© John Bills
Cultural Centre
All your culture under one shiny roof. Bijeljina’s Cultural Centre is located next to the Atik Mosque and couldn’t be more different architecturally. This is a glossy glass boy, home to the Milenko Atanacković Gallery, a cinema, a youth centre, a cafe and more. Atanacković was one of the first academically-trained Bosnian painters, and he spent much of his life in Bijeljina creating colourful portraits and other mimics of real life. Trg Kralja Petra I Karađorđevića, +387 55 204 202
BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES
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Might as well cut right to the chase here. Garden Pub (Filipa Višnjića 17) has Master Craft Brewery options, while the gardens of Praha (Žrtava fašističkog terora, +387 65 145 721) and Penny (Trg Đenerala Draže Mihajlovića 15, +387 65 569 469) are generally buzzing and boozing. Bašta Cafe (Jove Jovanovića Zmaja 16) is close to the Dučić and Živanović house and has a darling garden (hence the name). Kafeterija 11 (Nikole Tesle 4, +387 65 999 110) does an excellent espresso, and Omcafe (Trg Kralja Petra I Karađorđevića 1, +387 55 220 041) is another decent option. There is also a nice little riverside walk with a few cafes and bars, although nothing stands out. If you’re hungry, Lovac (Meše Selimovića 15, +387 55 209 050) is predictably good for meat lovers, Park (Žrtvava Fašističkog Terora, +387 55 421 440) serves a great pizza, and Semberka (Nikole Tesle 24, +387 66 001 600) will take care of all your ćevapi desires. I assume you have ćevapi desires; who doesn’t?
SLEEPING
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Hotel Drina (Kneza Miloša 1, +387 55 416 900, info@hoteldrina.com) is a great option close to the bus station, with comfortable rooms and wellness facilities for guests. The staff are friendly, the beds are good, and the massages are vigorous. Yes, please. Hotel Balkan (Žrtava Fašističkog Terora 1, +387 55 490 424) looks fancy, which is always a good thing for hotels. I stayed at Motel Milošević (Filipa Višnjića 151, +387 55 425 666) when writing A Currency for the Cat, a cheap and cheerful option on the other side of town. You can sleep at Stanišići, if you fancy that.
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