DOBOJ city guide — John W Bills

Doboj is a large city in the northeastern reaches of Bosnia and Herzegovina, the fourth-most-populous city in Republika Srpska and a whole lot of fun to say. Most people know it as a transport hub, home to the largest railway junction in the country, but there is more to Doboj than trains and buses. A fantastic fortress, for starters, an absolute boatload of history and a gorgeous city centre park. It was a major industrial hub during the Yugoslav years, which brought the usual ebb and flow of population and commerce to Doboj. Today, it gets overlooked by most visitors as it isn’t exactly the most beautiful city in the country, but a day will come when concrete towers get their time in the sun.

TRANSPORT

A train and a bus station?! Doboj, you are spoiling me. The train station (Ozrenskih Srpskih Brigada, +387 53 211 569) is on the eastern edge of town, just a short walk from the city centre, a walk that takes you past the relatively well-organised and stocked bus station (Svetog Save, +387 53 241 399). Pay no attention to the timetable, it is woefully out of date, but Doboj bus station has pretty much everything else you need. A small ticket and waiting office, a kiosk, a supermarket next door, grim toilets and easy-to-use platforms.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Doboj Fortress

I have a hard time writing about these fortresses, at least in a modern context. They were all constructed hundreds of years ago and saw battle after battle, so the prospect of them remaining in good condition is naive. Bosnia and Herzegovina’s fortresses are so unique because of the whispers they retain, the memories they hold and the stories that seep from what remains. Doboj’s fortress is no different, with a commanding position above the town. First, you won’t get a better view of Doboj than the one enjoyed from up here. This is where Doboj became Doboj, although it has been burnt down and destroyed repeatedly (at least 18 times) since its 13th-century inception, a hugely important fortress in the region and a key spot for any self-respecting conquering army. Doboj Fortress remains important today, not so much because of what is here, but because of what it means and stands for. Kralja Aleksandra 147

Mulalić House

Despite being one of the more interesting buildings in the centre of Doboj, the Mulalić House is hidden behind overgrown bushes and other shrubbery. The rectangular-plan town structure is pretty representative of 19th-century house-building in these parts, with a prominent roof comfortably protecting the curious layout and a single-storey design with an overhang. The house dates to around 1890 (when it first appeared in the land registrar) and was actually constructed by the Đananović family, with Hasib-bey Effendi Đananović selling it to the Mulalić family at the end of World War I so that his son could study medicine in Vienna. The house was abandoned in the recent war, although the family has been back to repair parts of it in more recent times. Kralja Aleksandra

Regional Museum

As the name suggests, the Regional Museum in Doboj tells the story of life in the region, with more than 20,000 exhibits of cultural importance. The collection covers everything from ethnology to archaeology, from the earliest evidence of humans here to more recent events. Throw in the usual look at customs, trades, beliefs and fashion, and you’ve got a more than decent introduction to the history of Doboj. Vidovdanska, +387 53 202 430

Bet Shalom Jewish Cultural Centre

The carnal violence of World War II destroyed much of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s Jewish community and heritage. The Bet Shalon Jewish Cultural Centre in Doboj is even more important because of the cruelty inflicted on the broader community, with the gorgeous synagogue functioning as a beating heart for people far and wide. Doboj’s first synagogue was constructed in 1874, but only the door survived the violence, a door which has been preserved in the courtyard of the new building. The new synagogue came into being in 2003, on the premises of a former family home, albeit a visually arresting one. Kralja Aleksandra 33, +387 65 441 288

Memorial Church of St. Peter and St. Paul

Built on the site of the former Austro-Hungarian army barracks, the Memorial Church of St. Peter and St. Paul is more than just another Peter and Paul structure in BiH. The church sits at the city's northern entrance and quietly pays tribute to all the lives lost in the wars of the 20th century, with detailed icons and a wood-carved iconostasis for good measure. Kralja Aleksandra

Selimija Mosque

Directly opposite the fortress is the Selimija Mosque, and its lofty position clearly indicates its historical importance. It was the first mosque in Doboj, built after the Ottoman conquest, approved and named after Sultan Selim I. I’ve mentioned him a few times; he was nicknamed Selim the Grim, so make of that what you will. The mosque has been destroyed and rebuilt over the years, with its current incarnation being completed in 2004. Pop Ljubina

Cultural Centre

Located next to Hotel Park and the excellent Teatar Cafe, the Cultural Centre is exactly what its name suggests. This is where culture in Doboj comes to be realised, where live music, theatre, art, folklore and other forms of entertainment take to the stage and the walls in front of adoring audiences and interested onlookers. The city art gallery is located here and showcases work from established and fresh artists. Kneza Lazara 6, +387 53 226 688

Camp Victims Memorials

Doboj has seen its fair share of brutality over the years, and two sombre monuments pay tribute to innocent lives lost in the cruel camps over the early 20th century. The first Austro-Hungarian concentration camp was located here, and tens of thousands of ordinary people passed through, many dying in captivity. Visitors arriving in Doboj by train will immediately see one of the memorials, a stark figure standing by a gleaming white cross, while the other memorial is located on a hill near the city.

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Doboj is a relatively big place with many eating and drinking options, so it comes down to what your tummy and tongue desire when the time is right. Teatar Cafe (Kneza Lazara 6, +387 65 542 868) ticks both the coffee and beer boxes, while Medenjak (Kneza Miloša 36, +387 53 962 666) and Hotel Park (Kneza Lazara 2, +387 53 200 800) are also decent. Nautilus (Tržni Centar Slavuljica, +387 66 118 100) and Grazia (Vidovdanska 22, +387 53 225 300) are top of the food chain. I’ve never been to the basement Pub Fort, but I imagine it is bloody delightful in winter. I also feel compelled to mention the excellent Croissant Pekoteka (Vidovdanska 28, +387 53 223 851), not too far from Grazia and the Regional Museum, as much for its mural as its baked goods.

SLEEPING

Another city, another Hotel Park (Kneza Lazara 2, +387 53 200 800), this time one that is directly next to a park, so there is that. The hotel is excellent, the receptionists are incredibly friendly, the cafe is decent, and the spa downstairs is always a welcome experience.

DOBOJ