DERVENTA city guide — John W Bills

Derventa was on my to-do list for a long, long time, and I’m not entirely sure what took me so long to get there. The pedestrian centre is packed with things to see and things to do, from its collection of buildings to everyone’s favourite pastime (people-watching, for the record). The history of Derventa follows the usual pattern, with people forming communities in these parts until more formal settlements came into being, with different ruling powers taking turns to treat the local populace like commodities. Industry and modern development came with the Austro-Hungarians in the late 19th century and continued with the various 20th-century versions of Yugoslavia, making the most of the fertile land surrounding the town even today. Market day is a big deal here; make no mistake about that. Derventa’s position in the northeastern corner of Bosnia and Herzegovina has always made it an important trading stop, a place for people to exchange goods and news on their way to or from the bigger cities further south. The name? Not a clue, to be honest.

TRANSPORT

For some reason, Derventa has two bus stations, although the older one is being phased out. The new bus station (Kninska 22, +387 53 331 902) isn’t quite as centrally located, although it is only a 10 or 15-minute walk from the platform to the pedestrian centre of Derventa. The new one is a tremendous station, with a friendly cafe, toilets and an accurate timetable. Why all stations don’t have accurate timetables is beyond me, but what can you do? What’s more, you get a timetable card with your ticket, so go ahead and ink Derventa Bus Station in as the number one. Derventa is connected to most big places in the north of the country, with many buses going to and from Banja Luka throughout the day.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Branko Radičević Library & City Museum

Two-for-one! The Brank Radičević Library is one of the prettiest buildings in the area, a glorious Austro-Hungarian-era structure with bombastic flourishes below its blocky roof. The library houses the City Museum, a love letter to all things Derventa that covers ethnography, tools and trades, monastery mosaics and a small dedication to Derventa-born writer and poet Savko Pečić. You might need to ask for the museum to be opened, but it is worth it. Trg Oslobođenja 2, +387 53 332 961

Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary

At first glance, the massive Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary looks like just another big Orthodox Church, with an imposing tower and charming greenery. On closer inspection, this is one of the most intricately designed Orthodox churches in the region, a gorgeously staggered work that reveals new ideas and ambitions in its architect. The church was constructed in the years following the war. A monument to Serbian lives lost in the war stands to the side of the church. Trg Pravoslavlja

City Mosque

Rebuilt following the destruction of the original in 1992, Derventa’s City Mosque has been the centre of life for the city’s Muslims since it was erected in the 16th century. Unfortunately, the new mosque wasn’t built following its original design, so the waters are muddy regarding national protection and the like, but it is still a gorgeous building in the very centre of town. Many prominent Muslims from Derventa were buried in the mosque’s cemetery, along with a turbe for Sheikh Omar (a central figure in Ottoman Derventa) and his wife, Aiša. Trg Pravoslavlja

Church of St George

Might as well round out the collection with the Catholic Church, right? Derventa’s Catholic Church (dedicated to St. George) doesn’t quite stir the soul in the same manner as the aching loss of the City Mosque or the tempered ambition of the Orthodox Church, but its place in the city is just as important. The church tower is typically monolithic, stretching high into the sky above the somewhat functional main building. Trg Pravoslavlja

Derventski List

One of the oldest regional newspapers still in print, Derventski List celebrated its 110th anniversary in 2022. It has come a long way from those early years of printing under the auspices of Ivan Radošević, keeping the people of Derventa informed of news and events even as the digital world continues its takeover. The newspaper is headquartered in a building that once housed Derventa’s first bank, so why not nip by and pick up a copy. A copy of the first-ever Derventski List (published on December 12, 1912) can be found at the tourist office. Cara Lazara 45, +387 53 312 050

Old Orthodox Church

Derventa’s first Orthodox Church might look different today, but a version of it still stands on the very spot where it was erected back in 1851. The church was built after years of asking the Sultan for permission, and its life is eternally tied to the celebratory festivities that were held to mark its opening. The church was rebuilt using local donations and local labour and now occupies a winsome spot near the city centre. Trive Vujića

Derventa Fair

The biggest event on the calendar here is the Derventa Fair, a citywide staple since its first edition in 1851. As mentioned above, it was first held to celebrate the building of Derventa’s old church and actually used to take place in the entranceway before moving to its current position on the fairgrounds by the river. It is one of the oldest fairs in Bosnia and Herzegovina, not to mention one of the biggest. Derventa Fair is a fun-for-all-the-family affair that stretches through the week around August 28. Mark it in your calendar pronto, tonto.

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

K:Ju (Kralja Petra I)! I’m not entirely sure about the name, but I can’t complain about the shaded summer terrace and the old-saloon-style interior, all vintage furnishings and dusty photographs. They also have live music nights if you are into such things. Now, full disclosure: I didn’t eat in Derventa, so I can’t put my ever-so-important stamp of approval on everything, but there are options close to the new bus station, with River Grill & Burger Bar (Srpske Vojske 2, +387 66 676 171) looking like the best.

SLEEPING

Hotel Biser (Kralja Petra I, +387 66 600 600) is hot-diggity-damn in the centre of town, on the slight gradient heading to the pedestrian area, and it does everything you need a hotel in Derventa to do. Good service, professional attitude, comfortable beds and good coffee.

DERVENTA