MODRIČA city guide — John W Bills

Modriča, Modriča, Modriča. The town was on my admittedly poorly structured radar for years, primarily due to its proximity to the Monogram Distillery. I’ve had a bottle of Monogram rakija (apple, for the record) in my fridge for over a year at this point (thanks, Imer), and I’d long planned on visiting the distillery, staying the night and enjoying the literal fruits of their labour. Did I expect to find donkeys nearby? No, I did not, but life takes you where it goes.

All of that is a few kilometres outside Modriča, a small town in northeastern Bosnia with around 11,000 inhabitants. The town covers the usual bases with the familiar historical signposts, its early settlers eventually developing into a border town of tumult and insecurity. Industry took over in the 20th century (there is an oil refinery here), although the town’s great potential comes not from its minerals but from its natural marvels. Yes, that means rakija, delicious food, hunting opportunities, and the magic of donkeys. I do love donkeys.

TRANSPORT

Modriča bus station (Vojvode Putnika, +387 53 812 621) is relatively standard, with a small waiting room and ticket office, a toilet, a timetable, and a cheery selection of trinkets by the window. The amount of tape on the timetable hints at a town rapidly losing connections, but direct buses remain to Banja Luka, Bijeljina, Sarajevo, Tuzla and others. You can even get to Novi Sad, but it will take forever. Six hours, which is as good as forever. The train station is on the other side of the road, but the train station is dead.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Monogram Distillery

My boozing days are behind me, but a trip to the Monogram Distillery is still a fantastic experience that tops the Modriča bill. How could it not? The Mišić family has been making rakija since 1981 (in this form, at least), and the Monogram grounds are magnificent, with thousands of apple, pear, plum and quince trees providing a gorgeous backdrop to some of the best rakija in the country. Walking around those trees is as serene as walks should be, and the whole experience might have you planning your own fruit farm. It did that to me, at least. Tours of the Monogram cellars are available, so book ahead and learn about the national sport. You might as well sample various flavours and spend the night in the four-star hotel. Donji Skugrić bb, Mišići, +387 66 583 001

Svetosavska

It might seem a little strange to put a short street at the top of the bill for Modriča proper, but Svetosavska is one of the most gorgeous streets in this part of the country. The street stretches 300 metres in the centre of town, with magnificent hackberry trees providing shade every step of the way. I have no idea what a hackberry is, but this street is bloomin’ beautiful. The shade eventually leads to cafes and shops, usually busy with commerce and conversation. Svetosavska

Dormition of the Theotokos Serbian Orthodox Temple

What a name, crikey. What is it with churches and emo names? Early 2000s fringes notwithstanding, the Serbian Orthodox Church in the centre of Modriča ticks the usual boxes, although the interior is well worth a look. Frescoes of the usual suspects cover the walls, with the deep blue punctuated by colours and scenes under the watchful eyes of saints. Vidovdanska 15

Murat-begova Mosque

Modriča’s City Mosque is a cutie, although I’m unsure if that is the correct term to describe a religious building. Too late, can’t edit, won’t edit. The mosque is set off the road with towering trees, shimmering with peace as the town goes about its business. Modriča was a majority Bosniak town as recently as 1991, but this 19th-century (reconstructed in 2003) mosque is all that remains. Cara Lazara

Agro-Nika Farm

A short walk from the Monogram Distillery and Hotel, Agro-Nika Farm is a donkey (and goat) farm. Now, I’ll make no secret of my love for the humble donkey, and my morning at this farm was a small slice of joy. Visits are possible but don’t forget that it is a working farm, so don’t get in the way. The farm sells various products, such as donkey milk and goat cheese. It used to make donkey cheese, but it was just too expensive to produce. Donkeys, you are the best. Johova Bara, Borovo Polje, +387 66 980 008

Church of the Virgin Mary

Svetosavska is a gorgeous location for a church, so I can only doff my cap with respect to Modriča’s central Catholic Church. Initially constructed in the late 19th century, it was destroyed at the beginning of the war and subsequently rebuilt in 2002. Svetosavska

Dobor Fortress

4km north of Modriča, little remains of the Dobor fortress. You didn’t need to be a military strategist to understand why it was built on this particular spot, with its natural protection and vaunted location fairly standard for old fortresses. Building the thing must have been all sorts of tricky, so kudos to the constructors. It was first mentioned in the 14th century when Bosnia was frequently sparring with Hungary, and a 1737 military report suggests it has been abandoned since then. It isn’t the safest spot these days, so be careful.

City Park

Sandwiched between the mosque, Svetosavska and the City Hall, Modriča’s City Park is small but perfectly formed. Several monuments in the park pay homage to lives lost in the tumult of the 20th century. There is also one of those city name signs across the road; you know the things, there seems to be one in every single Bosnian town.

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Monogram, Monogram, Monogram. If it feels like I’m pushing Monogram (Donji Skugrić bb, Mišići, +387 66 583 001), I am, but not because I dearly hope they eventually sponsor me to do something. It really is a marvellous spot for good food and better drinks. In Modriča itself, Gagi (Trg Nemanjica 2, +387 65 583 815) is a friendly restaurant serving traditional meals in the heart of town, while the end of Svetosavska has many cafes to choose from. Prima (Trg Dr Milana Jelića 15, +387 53 813 064) is your best bet for coffee and pizza, and Krigla (Svetosavska, +387 53 813 013) should take care of all your beer requirements. I’m told Vodenica (Svetosavska, +387 53 812 260) is excellent, although I didn’t get there myself.

SLEEPING

Prenoćište Park (Nemanjičeva 3, +387 66 119 795) is a cheery option in the very centre of town, but you might as well stump up for a taxi and head out to Monogram (Donji Skugrić bb, Mišići, +387 66 583 001). Go on, you won’t regret it. Whether you drink or not, it is a gorgeous part of the world, and walking among the many fruit trees as the sun sets is a wonderful experience. The beds are comfortable, and the food is delicious if you need more convincing.

MODRIČA