TESLIĆ city guide — John W Bills

From a tourist’s perspective (and we are tourists, do not forget that), Teslić can be split into two halves. On the one side of the coin, we have the town proper, a pleasant small town with winsome churches, busy cafes, intriguing monuments, and a particularly wacky bridge. The flip side? Well, that’s where we find a spa and wellness complex that stands tall as Bosnia and Herzegovina’s biggest tourist spot, at least in terms of beds. That ruins the intro for Banja Vrućica, but you’ll have to forgive me. Around 8,000 people live in Teslić, with the municipality population hovering around the 40,000 mark, and its history follows a familiar path. Development (in any meaningful sense) didn’t come until the 19th century, and by the middle of the 20th century, it was one of the largest industrial centres in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Wood, milk, electricity, and metal were all produced here, with some still being made today. But while manufacturing dominates the paychecks, the sprawling complex of Banja Vrućica gets the most attention, and rightly so.

TRANSPORT

There isn’t a huge amount waiting at Teslić bus station (Krajiška, +387 53 430 611), but it is a bus station, so I wouldn’t worry too much. The ticket office works consistently, there is a small cafe on the platform, and the direct lines to Banja Luka and Doboj (continuing to Istočno) are generally on time. The station is located at the northern entrance of the town, close to the futuristic bridge and the Stenjak Mosque.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Banja Vrućica

Pop quiz, hot shot: Where will you find the largest tourist complex in Bosnia and Herzegovina? The answer is obviously Banja Vrućica. Otherwise, this intro would have no place here. Yes, Banja Vrućica, the sprawling spa complex just 3km outside of Teslić, a vast range of hotels, wellness, therapy, faith and activities that remains the area’s strongest calling card. The healing powers of its mineral waters have been known for millennia, but it wasn’t until the detailed chemical analyses of Simo Krstić in 1918 that things began to develop. It was a dude called Simo Simić who got the ball rolling, building on his own rehabilitation to establish the complex we know and love today. Banja Vrućica’s facilities have garnered rave reviews for helping various cardiovascular and rheumatological conditions, the food at Kardial is excellent, and the whole area is bathed in serenity. The Church of the Ascension of the Lord is as impressive as such spots tend to be, adding a layer of spiritual calm to the physical rejuvenation offered all around. Banja Vrućica, +387 53 431 270

Memorial Church of the Holy Trinity

The Teslić entry into the impressive Orthodox temple category is, well, impressive, an imposing structure in the heart of town that does its job with charm and confidence. It’s a big one, make no mistake about that, but it doesn’t feel excessive, following familiar motifs found across Serbian Orthodox churches in BiH and Serbia. One of the largest temples in Republika Srpska, the church acts as a memorial for lives lost in the war and took a whopping 13 years to complete (work started in 1997 and didn’t end until 2010). There is a statue of 13th-century Serbian King Stefan Dragutin at the entrance. M Rajkovića

Liplje Monastery

Around 25km west of Teslić sits the 13th (or 15th) century Liplje Monastery, a picture of peace in the hills. You don’t need to be a historian to guess that it hasn’t always been so peaceful, although Liplje was largely spared the total obliteration seen at other monasteries in the area. Still, the Ottomans smashed it up, leaving it dormant for centuries before it became a parish in the late 19th century. It was reestablished fully only in 1965. Liplje’s history informs its present, although most guests are taken by the tranquillity over the tumult. Monks transcribed religious texts here as far back as the 17th century, and it is difficult to imagine a better environment for such a task. Spending the night at the monastery is possible, but should probably be organised beforehand. Might be best to stay at nearby Motel Jotan and make a 5km pilgrimage, instead. +387 53 442 111

Stenjak Mosque

Functional on the outside, stunningly beautiful on the inside. Stenjak Mosque is how we all should be if you’ll allow that somewhat flowery introduction. The mosque is close to the bus station, and the wacky bridge at the northern entrance to town, and information about its origins is pretty scant. It isn’t a mosque with a grand Ottoman tradition; more likely, it served the Islamic community here during the brief Austro-Hungarian tenure and was rebuilt following the war's violence. The interior is spellbinding, all cerulean shine with calligraphic flourishes and the tender confidence that all great mosques exude. Stenjak

St Joseph’s Catholic Church

Not as impressive as the Orthodox Church and not as detailed as the mosque, St Joseph’s Catholic Church plays gooseberry when talking about the religious buildings in the heart of Teslić. Don’t take that as a negative because this quaint structure in the middle of town is all about faith over fancies. The parish was established here in 1922, and this church was initially constructed in 1934. Predictably, it went the way of the dogs during the war, only for the reconstruction to be completed in 2008. Karađorđeva, +387 63 284 636

Momčilo Stećci and the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary

If you think the title is lengthy, I could easily have added the Church of St Peter and St Paul, so don’t complain. A pleasant 20-minute walk south of Banja Vrućica is the small church complex, home to Peter and Paul and a gorgeous 17th-century wooden church, renovated to mimic its aesthetic from those lost centuries. Head a little further into the wilderness, and you will come across the so-called Duke Momčilo Tombstones, a small collection of stećci on a hill. I’m not entirely sure why they are called so, as Momčilo never ruled in these parts, but it is what it is. Full disclosure: it was foggy as heck when I was last here, and some very angry dogs didn’t want me hanging around. I’m not a fan of dogs. Gornja Vrućica

Church of the Holy Prophet Elijah

On the way out of town to the west, the Church of the Holy Prophet Elijah is another entry into the Teslić collection of Orthodox Churches. It doesn’t have the grandeur of the others, but it is all the better for it, emanating serenity and quiet calm. Construction on the church began in 1921 and was completed in 1925, although the friendly chap there told me it was finished in 1924, so squabble as you please. The interior of the church sees ceiling-to-floor saints and stories at every turn. Svetog Save

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Teslić has some decent cafes, with Life (Svetog Save 30, +387 66 476 788), Vuk (Svetog Save 42, +387 53 431 579) and Krug (Svetog Save 17) at the top of this figurative table, while Pub Teslić (Svetog Save bb, +387 65 985 832) takes care of extracurricular activities. For hungry travellers, Milenijum (Hilandarska 1, +387 53 430 401) is probably the best bet in the city centre, although Hajdučka Vatra (Gornje Liplje, +387 53 441 001) is a charming choice out towards Liplje Monastery. The food at Hotel Kardial (Petra Jokića, +387 53 431 200) is excellent. Sticking with Banja Vrućica, Cafe Positive (Banja Vrućica) is a fine spot for a coffee between the spa and Teslić. Back in my pivo days, I almost certainly would have imbibed too many beers at the, erm, fantastically named Cafe Fantastik (Kosovska 5, +387 66 220 220).

SLEEPING

I don’t want to just lean on Banja Vrućica until the end of time, but you are more than likely headed this way if in Teslić, so why not sleep here as well? Hotel Kardial (Petra Jokića, +387 53 431 200) is the obvious option, and for good reason, with excellent facilities, friendly staff, good food and all that spa stuff. You know, saunas, massages, pools, more pools, and the rest. Hotel Posavina (Petra Jokića, +53 430 345) is another Banja Vrućica option, ticking most of the same boxes. There are a handful of private apartment options in Teslić proper, although nothing to write home about. Hotel Rođo (M4, +387 53 420 000) is just outside the centre to the west, not a million miles from the Church of St Elijah. If you want a hilltop stay outside of town, Motel Jotan (Gornje Liplje Borje, +387 65 944 943) is about 25km away.

TESLIĆ