FOČA-USTIKOLINA city guide

One of the smallest municipalities in the federation, Foča-Ustikolina broke away from Foča in 1995 to make the maths work following the war. Fewer than 3,000 people live here today, although it holds quite the historical punch for somewhere so slight. There is plenty of evidence of human inhabitation from ancient periods, and Ustikolina is where the first mosque in Bosnia and Herzegovina was built (according to most sources). Also, Brajlović? Yeah, that’s from here. There’s not a whole lot going on in Ustikolina, but sometimes, that is for the best. You’ll find peace, history, and some spectacular grilled meat. Oh, and the name? Ustikolina means “mouth of the Kolina River.” You’re welcome.

TRANSPORT

Ustikolina doesn’t have a bus station, what with it being a teeny-tiny town and all that, but the cheerful combis that venture here stop in the heart of town, on the roundabout next to the war monument. Daily buses shuttle between Ustikolina and Goražde. That’s about it.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Turhan Emin Bey Mosque

Widely regarded as the oldest mosque in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Ustikolina’s Turhan Emin Bey Mosque also happens to have the tallest minaret in the country. It stands at a whopping 66 metres, towering into the sky like the metaphorical finger to heaven, delicate and sturdy all at once. The original was constructed way, way back in the middle of the 15th century, although nobody is entirely sure exactly when or at the behest of whom. Turhan Emin Bey? He is thought to have been a mid-15th century regional leader buried in nearby Presjeca, but there’s nothing concrete on that front. Destroyed in both World War II and 1992, the mosque was reconstructed in 2007 and follows its original form, a simple square without major detail. The minaret is the obvious star, a triumph of stone and spirit.

Church of the Holy Trinity

Located next to Ustikolina’s elementary school, the Church of the Holy Trinity is a simple structure free of ostentatious excess. Construction began in 1936 (on the site of an older church) and was completed in 1941, just in time for the fascists to enter town and destroy everything. Things didn’t exactly improve under communism, but a new church was erected in 1967, and today’s structure was completed in 1985. It wasn’t touched during the most recent war.

Fočanska Hair Česma

Located on the side of the road between Goražde and Ustikolina, the sombre Fočanska Hair Česma memorial park pays homage to the innocent victims of the war. Some of the most violent displacement and ethnic cleansing took place in this area, with around 20,000 Bosnians forced out of Foča and the surrounding areas, many being kept in concentration camps or outright murdered. Not all of the remains have been found, and this citizen-funded memorial park is a tearful site of respect, one devised and created out of love and care for lives lost. The views of the Drina are gorgeous, but all beauty plays second fiddle here to the monuments and the memories of those taken. Prijage bb

Stone Bridge on Kožetina

You’re going to need your imagination for this one. Not entirely, as the little stone bridge on Kožetina still stands, but there is little to no information as to why, how or when it came to be here. Nobody knows who built the bridge, and there are no inscriptions, decorations or features that help paint a picture of its construction. Maybe it was the Romans? The style suggests it came about in the early Ottoman period, but planting that particular flag requires no small amount of conjecture. Instead, you are left with the meagre evidence; a 10-metre-long stone bridge on a bank near a stream that leads to the Drina, in an area once part of a trade route but soon lost importance to neighbouring Foča and Goražde. In a way, you can tie that to the fate of Ustikolina proper.

Presjeka Cemetery

The history of Presjeka Cemetery is tied to that of the Turhan Emin Bey Mosque, and particularly the mysterious figure who gives his name to Bosnia’s oldest mosque. As with the mosque itself, there are more question marks here than anything else, but who doesn’t love a mystery? The necropolis contains around 15 tombstones, most made of the same stone as the mosque’s minaret, and the cemetery is packed with tradition, myth and legend that ensure its spot as an area of interest. I don’t have space here, but let’s just say that if you are a wedding guest, you might not want to come here after the party, lest you be turned to quartz. The burial ground is 10km northwest of Ustikolina, in the direction of Jabuka. Donje Žešće

Zebina Šuma

A sweeping area of glorious green and delightful vistas, Zebina Šuma comprises a small village and various spots where people once lived. There are several stećci found in these parts, although time and neglect have left their usual mark. Zebina Šuma was vital to the defence of Goražde during the war, as soldiers and civilians gave their lives to ensure the aggressors would not take that vital town. Thousands of refugees also found safety here, a historical fact at odds with the serene beauty of it all.

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Ustikolina is very small, so don’t expect a glut of food and drink options. Hey, why the frown? I didn’t say there was nothing! You may be familiar with Brajlović (Cvilin bb, +387 61 822 405) in Ilidža, but the famous family of butchers traces its lineage back to Ustikolina, and a restaurant and butchery remain. The restaurant (a ranch, really) seems to flit between being open and closed (depending on the season), but you can get a mountain of meat at the ćevabdžinica (Omladinska, +387 62 715 407) on the main road. Outside of the Brajlović empire, Venera (Fočanske Brigade bb, +387 62 660 325) is a decent place for a coffee or something stronger.

SLEEPING

As mentioned above, Ranč Brajlović (Cvilin bb, +387 61 822 405) seems to flit between open and closed, so I’m a little bit apprehensive to give it the full glowing thumbs up here. Not to worry, as Pansion Baša (Omladinska, +387 62 408 509) sits on the other side of the bridge and has comfortable rooms, good food, and a gosh darn swimming pool for summertime splashing.

FOČA-USTIKOLINA