GORAŽDE city guide — John W Bills

Defiant and delightful, there’s nowhere quite like Goražde. Located in the east of Bosnia, around 50 miles from Sarajevo, the town has a history that follows a familiar list of chapters. You know the story, inhabited from long ago, passed through the usual hands, developed by the Ottomans, urbanised and neglected by the Austro-Hungarians. However, Goražde does things a little differently. For one, it was a significant trade spot for the Ottomans, who made use of its position on the traditional route from the mainland to the sea. As a result, Goražde was buddy-buddy with Ragusa (pre-major label Dubrovnik), which allowed various trades and crafts to flourish here. Sure, the Austro-Hungarians didn’t help, but the town continued to blossom. In Yugoslavia, it was a relatively standard Yugo town that was fairly prosperous, a multiethnic city doing its thing on the banks of the Drina.

Then, war. A cursory glance at a map of Bosnia and Herzegovina will show that Goražde was in a tough spot, the only town in Eastern Bosnia with a majority Muslim population before the war that maintained that following the violence. The city was besieged by Serb forces throughout the war, surviving through a mixture of stubbornness, ingenuity, luck and bravery, four characteristics that are still intangible in Goražde today. It could easily have become another name in a long list of massacres, but it didn’t. Somehow. Today, Goražde is defiantly Goražde, a city that doesn’t get enough attention for its beauty, and probably doesn’t get enough for its heart, either.

TRANSPORT

Despite a somewhat awkward location, no real facilities and sleeping strays, I will give Goražde bus station (Trg Branilaća bb, +387 38 221 157) a thumbs up. The town’s location befits an awkward bus station, anyway. The city has direct connections to Sarajevo and buses for Ustikolina, Ustiprača and Čajniče. I’m sure there is a direct bus to Foča and/or Višegrad, but that might have been a 2018 fever dream.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

The Bridge Under the Bridge

A cursory glance at Goražde’s location shows that the town had a rough go of it during the war, to say the least. Survival was everything, and the town’s residents were forced to dig deep into the bag of tricks to make it through. It was in these circumstances that the Bridge Under the Bridge was built. Exactly what the name suggests, this is a bridge built under the main bridge in town. This crossing allowed people and supplies to move back and forth across the river while the city suffered under siege. The small park next to the bridge features a collection of boards telling the story of Goražde during the siege (in Bosnian and English), the nuts and bolts of a remarkable will to survive. The bridge is off-limits today but still visible, its role as a vital piece of Goražde’s survival assured. Ispod Most Alije Izetbegovića

Kayseri Mosque

With two minarets and a prime location next to the river, all is good in the world of Goražde’s Kayseri Mosque. The mosque was erected in 2009 and is named after its benefactor (the Turkish city of Kayseri, shock of shocks). Now, generally speaking, I’m not a fan of these two-minaret behemoths, but the Kayeri Mosque has an inherent charm that I can’t quite place. Maybe it is the wall of windows, or perhaps that darling location on the banks of the Drina. Whatever it is, it works. Ibrahima Čelika

Goražde Cultural Centre

The cultural centre in Goražde is charmingly old-fashioned, eschewing extravagance in favour of engagement and education. The central theatre is large and frequently holds talks, performances and films, with comfortable seats and a grand feel. The Homeland Museum is located in the cultural centre. Shall we talk about it now? Let’s talk about it now. The museum isn’t always open, but it houses a collection of artefacts from the war while telling the story of that brutal time. A monument stands out front. Zaima Imamovića 2, +387 38 221 344

City Gallery

Sticking with culture, the City Gallery stands next to Goražde’s darts club, although maybe it is better to say that the darts club is next to the gallery. Either way, the small house of art showcases occasional exhibitions from local artists and those from further afield. It isn’t huge, but the intimate setting allows the work to shine brighter. The tourist office is also nearby, so do pop in for a chat if you have the time. Kulina Bana

Lily Monument

Full disclosure: I didn’t head up to the Lily because I am lazy, and it was hot. Still, you can see this relatively new monument from all over the city, which is no shock. After all, it is a 10-metre tall bone-white monument on the top of a hill, with what I can only presume are stunning views of Goražde. The brainchild of local MP and Golden Lily awardee Džebrail Bajramović, the Lily is a monument to peace and defiance, financed by friends, family and the Bosnian diaspora.

Drina Promenade

Goražde and the Drina are one and the same, and both sides of the river are accentuated with a paved promenade perfect for strolling. When the sun is out, there really isn’t anything more delightful here, no matter the direction in which you are headed. The promenades lead out of the city in both directions, and while there isn’t a whole lot to do along the way, I’m not entirely sure what it is you are after. A serene walk along a gorgeous river is reason enough to add this to the top of your Goražde to-do list.

Sinan Bey Mosque

During the war, the Sinan Bey Mosque was the centre of Islamic faith in Goražde. That had long been the case, particularly after the larger Džafer Bey Mosque was destroyed by the Yugoslav government in 1960. It was no small weight for the small neighbourhood mosque to carry, but the Sinan Bey Mosque held its head high and brought solace through impossible times. Initially constructed in 1859, it was expanded following the felling of the aforementioned Džafer Bey Mosque, and not even the falling of its minaret (at 14:45 on July 8, 1992) could stop it from functioning. The minaret was rebuilt with help from the Malaysian government and is mighty tall, while the white markers of the dead add a sombre sheen to the setting. Šukrije Kukavice

Memorial to the Fallen Defenders

Tucked away just outside the centre of Goražde, the Memorial to the Fallen Defenders monument was unveiled in 2022 to mark the 30th anniversary of the siege. The names of 2,115 individuals cover the walls behind a sombre structure displaying half of the fleur-de-lis and two pillars. As many have said, every stone in Goražde is a memorial in its right, and this particular congregation is respectful and reverent all at once. Seada Sofovića Sofe 20

Bijele Vode

The swathes of nature surrounding Goražde are utterly delightful, and nowhere is this better exemplified than the green charms of Bijele Vode. Of course, the name suggests that should be white and not green, but I digress. The complex is one of the excellent nature immersion experiences in Bosnia and Herzegovina, with plenty of hunting opportunities alongside relaxation and the serene pace of mountain life. Hunting excursions must be arranged in advance (obviously), all weaponry is provided (at a charge), and bears, wild boars, wolves, bucks, and more await. Actually, I feel bad for typing that, but you get the idea. Even if hunting isn’t your thing, Bijele Vode has excellent accommodation and a tremendous restaurant, making it a delightful overnight option. Ilino, +387 38 245 050

Rorovi Izletište

If you’re after the freshest air and the most magnificent views, dust off your walking boots and head up to Rorovi. The area around Povrsnica mountain is immensely popular, and you don’t need to be an outdoors enthusiast to understand why; think tranquil hikes, numerous cultural and historical landmarks and a tank or three. The entire area is something of a resistance symbol in these parts, although resistance today primarily takes the form of family picnics and amateur photography. Those looking to dig a little deeper into its wartime heritage can check out the memorial house of army officer Zaim Imamović, the commander who was at the forefront of Goražde’s fight for survival.

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

There are heaps and heaps of cafes in Goražde. In fact, the main artery in the city centre is lined with the things, so it’s very much a take-your-pick sort of situation. Goražde Pub (Zaima Imamovića 32a, +387 62 450 310) has Sarajevsko on tap and an excellent interior. You also get to watch everyone wander by and say hello because everyone knows everyone in Goražde. Except for you. Nobody knows you. Elsewhere, the coffee at San (Zaima Imamovića, +387 38 222 208) is excellent, and the decor at Biblioteka (Zaima Imamovića) is just as good. Goražde is Bosnian as heck, so you’ll find excellent ćevapi at affordable prices, notably at Bosanka (Trg Branilaca, +387 60 30 20 400) and Zambak (Ferida Dizdarevića, +387 38 224 111). The service is pretty wretched at the latter, for what it’s worth. I didn’t eat at Riverside (Trg Branilaca, +387 61 902 920), but the location is fabulous. Finally, Goražde has a darts club. Soft tip, sure, but Pikado Klub Goražde (Kulina Bana) gets a big thumbs up from me. G’darts.

SLEEPING

There aren’t a huge amount of accommodation options in Goražde itself, which is a polite way of saying there is one hotel and a handful of private apartments. The good news is that Hotel Behar (Trg Branilaca, +387 38 227 997) is more than enough, with friendly staff, comfortable beds and a gorgeous riverside location. The shower pressure could be improved, but I’m nitpicking. Outside of town, Bijele Vode (Ilino, +387 38 245 050) is just about as picture-perfect as a nature getaway gets.

GORAŽDE