DISPATCHES
Zenica to Zavidovići // Solipsism for the Narcissist
Riding the rails once more, from Zenica to Zavidovići on a beautiful winter morning. Bees, colour, thought. The usual, in other words.
Ilidža // Give Me Skenderova’s Fate
Co-ordinated angst in a beautiful setting? Welcome to travel writing in the 21st century, buddy! This week we walk around Vrelo Bosne and Velika Aleja, with a little Staka Skenderova for good measure.
Brčko // A Low Hum
A foggy morning wandering the streets of Brčko, looking for nothing and finding even less.
Sarajevo // You Can Lead a Horse to Water
The brewery that saved a city has also saved itself from an unpotable situation over the last decade or so. Živjeli, Sarajevsko.
Visoko // An Actual Pyramid Scheme
An actual pyramid scheme, based around a pyramid. What’s not to love? Visoko, I applaud you.
Stolac // In the Aisle, Yelling
A short eulogy, lamenting the memory of Stolac bus station.
Pale // Happy Birthday, Trifko Grabež
Pale, Pale, Pale. Home of Trifko Grabež, one of the boys tasked with offing Franz Ferdinand (not the band) all those years ago. How should we remember such figures?
Konjic // Staff to the Refund Counter
An impressive dedication to planning and survival, or a colossal waste of money? Both? All three? A tour of Tito’s secret bunker, near Konjic.
Lukavac // Wild Ham
A morning spent searching for Wild Ham in Lukavac becomes a morning of disappointment, frustration, understanding and searching for Wild Ham in Lukavac.
Novo Goražde // Print is Dead
Egon Spengler’s famous phrase isn’t true today, and it certainly wasn’t true back in Božidar Goraždanin’s day. This is the story of the first printing press in what is now BiH.
Banovići // The Enormous Last Day of Life
Hidden for centuries, the Turkish cemetery near Banovići conjures up questions of meaning, eternity and existence. Death, my friends, death.
Jablanica // Nobody Smiles Through a Beating
Jablanica is famous for two things; tasty, tasty lambs, and an intense battle for thousands of wounded people. This isn’t about the lambs.
Jajce // My Sockets are Swimming
You aren’t reading this, you are too busy looking at the photo. I don’t blame you. Jajce’s waterfalls are pretty darn spectacular.
Olovo // In the Future, We Will Kiss Through Rabbits
Olovo is the City of the Future, you know, but what does that look like? What does it have to do with rabbits? In the future, we may well find out.
Kakanj // The Air, It Weighs a Ton
Kakanj is industry, industry is Kakanj. Is that a bad thing? All depends on who you ask, obviously, but maybe someone should ask the people of Kakanj first…
Livno // History Never Ends
Everything you ever wanted to know about Livno, albeit with a worrying amount of dead animals included.
Mostar // Always Go Full Benefactor
The story of Mustafa Mujaga Komadina, Mostar’s great mayor and benefactor. There are no hidden meanings there.
Stanišići // Solitude is the Outcome
Etno-selos should be small serene spaces of tradition and tranquility. Somewhere along the way, Stanišići lost its way.
Banja Luka // White Guy, With a Moustache, About Six Foot Three
The shadow of Petar Kočić looms large over Banja Luka’s central park. Well, the shadow of his moustache, that is…
Sokolac // This Hot Air Balloon is Not Quite in Tune
A small town in the Romanija hills, Sokolac is home to ordinary life and the memory of a real miracle worker.