ČAPLJINA

Truth be told, I struggle a little with Čapljina. I am unsure whether I overestimate its importance or underestimate the same, a confusion born out of its spot on the route between Dalmatia and Mostar. Is it a pretty city, or is it more functional? Čapljina is a little bit of everything, some good, some bad, all Čapljina. The town is smack-bang on the border with Croatia and is surrounded by some of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s most impressive attractions, so there are plenty of reasons to head this way. I say ‘most impressive attractions’ as if that is some throwaway comment, but no, one of my favourite places is in this municipality. The Roman ruins in the city’s vicinity suggest a lengthy history, although the origin of the name is up for debate. Could it be something to do with herons? Most scholars lean that way. Čapljina is an important transport stop in this part of the world, with the gorgeous Neretva flowing through its heart. On any trip to Herzegovina, a stop in Čapljina is a must.

TRANSPORT

Čapljina bus (Slivija Stahimira Kranjčevića, +387 36 806 671) and train stations (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, +387 36 806 037) are next to each other in the town centre. The bus station has a ticket office and a toilet, while the train station has all of that plus a cafe. A kiosk is between the two, and a cute square out in front. Čapljina is somehow well-connected and poorly connected all at once, with daily buses heading north towards Mostar and Sarajevo and several connections to towns in Dalmatia. It feels like there should be more buses. For Gabela, Mogorjelo, Počitelj and the rest, you rely on taxis. There are usually a couple waiting by the station, with Orange Taxi (+387 63 808 111) being the best. The train station is the final stop on the gorgeous Sarajevo - Čapljina route, which snakes through Mostar, Konjic and others.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Hutovo Blato

I’m not entirely sure why, but the word ‘swamp’ doesn’t exactly conjure up images of grace and beauty. Those preconceptions are obliterated by the sweeping might of Hutovo Blato, a magnificent nature reserve 15km southeast of Čapljina. More than 250 different kinds of migratory birds spend time here throughout the year, enjoying the lakes, swamps and glades of this karst charmer. There are also the remains of the Ottoman-era Hutovo Fortress and a bizarre underwater trading post called Desilo, although it obviously wasn’t underwater when the Romans were doing business here. The Krupa River is the primary driver of life in Hutovo Blato, creating lakes and streams with joyful abandon. +387 36 814 716

Počitelj

Be still, my beating heart. Počitelj is a top table beautiful place, the most picturesque village in a country packed with picturesque villages. It comes out of nowhere on the side of the road, nestled 4km north of Čapljina (just 30km south of Mostar) in the most unassuming way, albeit unassuming in a ‘this place is wonderful’ kind of way. There aren’t many better ways to spend a day in Herzegovina than by strolling the narrow streets of Počitelj, gazing down at the turquoise Neretva river or up at Počitelj itself, framed by its twin towers and accentuated by the gorgeous Hajji Alija Mosque in the centre. History is important here, but it only flirts with the story, and no amount of comments about 17th-century development and 20th-century neglect will balance the sheer aesthetic magic of Počitelj. Yes, all of this is a bit flowery, but Počitelj will do that to you.

Mogorjelo

Mogorjelo is a Roman villa rustica found just 5km outside of Čapljina, a fabulously well-preserved glimpse into a life of luxury. By well-preserved, I mean most of the foundations remain, but handy educational signs fill in the gaps. It is said that Mogorjelo began as a private agricultural complex that developed swiftly and soon found itself feeding most of the area. Mogorjelo is considered the most important Roman archaeological site in Bosnia and Herzegovina, if you are into that sort of thing.

Gabela

Did you know that the famous city of Troy was actually located in Bosnia and Herzegovina? You do now! That is what some think, specifically located in the little village of Gabela, 5km south of Čapljina. The notion was first posited by Mexican writer Roberto Salinas Price in the 1980s, getting plenty of attention in Yugoslavia but not much elsewhere. I don’t really understand, to be honest, but the views of the fortress ruins are pretty impressive, and that lion statue is pretty damn cool. There are a few other spots of interest in Gabela, namely three cute churches and the HQ of GOŠK Gabela football club.

Church of St Francis of Assisi

I love me a good cathedral at the end of a street, it makes for a quite delightful (dequiteful) image. Čapljina is a paid-up club member, with the charming Church of St Francis of Assisi sitting at the end (or start, depending on your approach) of Matije Gupca behind the municipal building and King Tomislav Statue. Ol’ Franny is also on the town’s coat of arms, along with Počitelj and the šahovnica (Croatian checkerboard). Matije Gupca bb

Klepci Bridge

Another 16th-century stone bridge that swoons with charm, the Klepci Bridge spans the relatively minor Bregava River and has seen plenty in its centuries, from Ottoman trade to neglect and recent resurrection. It is pretty, it is quaint, and it deserves a brief stop and a few photographs.

Adventure Trebižat

Trebižat is known as a town of music and will get its own bank of texts in time, but for now, it must be content with a slice of sun here. Besides, the excitement on offer at Adventure Trebižat transcends words on a screen (or page, you Luddite), and the good folks at this friendly set-up are ready to take you out kayaking and canoeing. Everywhere likes to claim they have expert guides, but these guides are a step above that, so get ready for a fabulous experience. They are also involved with various other activities in the area, so don’t hesitate to ask. Struge bb, +387 63 350 534, adventure-trebizat.com, stanko.zlopasa@hotmail.com

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Tropic, Tropic, Tropic (Gojka Šuška bb, +387 63 417 870) Not only do you get plenty of seating, but you also get Trojansko pivo, and what more could one want? It isn’t exactly the easiest to find from the town side of things, and it does involve wandering down a little alley, but that beer is well worth it. Better to head to the river from Trg Kralja Tomislava and enter from that side. Again, worth it. Konoba Hercegovac (Gojka Šuška bb, +387 36 806 849) is an excellent option for traditional dishes and lots of meat. Key (Gojka Šuška bb) is a great place for that morning coffee, with a lovely terrace overlooking the river, but it does close in the afternoon. On the main drag from the stations into town, Mambo (Ante Starčevića 31, +387 63 518 438) and Marlena (Ante Starčevića 27, +387 36 806 565) are decent coffee and food options. The food at Hotel President (Tasovčići bb, +387 36 810 110) is supposed to be exquisite, but I am a poor writer, so I am yet to sample it.

SLEEPING

Čapljina isn’t swarming with accommodation options, but three get a solid thumbs up. Unfortunately, two of them are on the edge of town. Well, one is on the edge of town, the other is out of town. Motel Hrasno (Zrinsko Frankopanska, +387 63 353 801) is in the centre of Čapljina and is decidedly no-frills, but the owners are super friendly, and there is something old-fashioned about it. It is the oldest motel in town, which explains that. Hotel President (Tasovčići bb, +387 36 810 110) is on the opposite end of the school, very shiny and new, with modern facilities and a classy sheen. A pool on the roof too, which is fun, Storia (Tasovčići bb, +387 36 807 426) is just outside the town and does a good line in events, with a nice pool and a riverside location.