MOSTAR city guide — John W Bills

And so we return to the beginning. Like so many who find themselves deeply captivated by this most miraculous country, Mostar was where it all began for me. I arrived at the bus station in 2009 as an impressionable 23-year-old with no idea what he was doing. I wouldn’t wager that I am any more clued up today, but I wouldn’t be who I am today without Mostar. So, from me to you, thank you.

Mostar remains my favourite city in Bosnia and Herzegovina despite its deep flaws and often infuriating stubborn nature. Despite the hopes of optimistic commentators, it is a divided city, split east to west, creating two parts of one whole that are very much opposites. East Mostar is where most of the visitor action takes place, a warren of history and heritage that wears its past like a badge of honour. West Mostar is curious in its own way, but its soul remains hidden under modern development and traffic. I love them both intensely.

Mostar is the largest city in Herzegovina, a historical beauty straddling the Neretva River that takes its name from the men who guarded the bridge, not the bridge itself. It has always been an important spot on trade routes, bringing people from all over the world in search of currency, commerce and conversation. The same applies today. No city suffered more destruction in the most recent war. No city is as vibrant in the 21st century. If you only visit one town in Bosnia and Herzegovina, you are a fool. If you have no say in the number, make Mostar the one.

TRANSPORT

Mostar has two bus stations, one in the east (Maršala Tita, +387 36 552 025) and one in the west (Vukovarska, +387 36 348 680). The eastern one is the main station, with a little ticket office, a row of cafes, a kiosk, a couple of ATMs and a toilet that has smelt pretty terrible for at least 14 years. The western station is a more modern building with a restaurant opposite, but it doesn’t have much in the way of facilities. The dude working there is the country’s most curmudgeonly bus station employee. Mostar is far and away the best base for exploring Herzegovina, with direct buses to every town of note. It is also relatively well connected with the rest of Bosnia, with direct buses to Sarajevo, Zenica, Jajce and others. Mostar’s train station (Trg Ivana Krndelja 1, +387 36 515 637) is next to the main bus station, with two daily trains going to Sarajevo and Čapljina. Mostar also has an airport (Gnojnice, +387 36 352 770, mostar-airport.ba), but I’d be shocked if anyone ever uses it.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Stari Most

The best thing in Bosnia and Herzegovina. I’m biased, Mostar having been my introduction to the country all those years ago, but I still gaze at this magnificent structure with the giddy joy of a child at Christmas. Its story is well-documented, from its frankly impossible beginnings in the middle of the 16th century (Suleiman the Magnificent demanded a bridge of these specifications be built by Mimar Hayruddin; the architect didn’t think it possible and supposedly vanished on the day of its unveiling, convinced it would fall) to its destruction in 1993 and resurrection in 2004. Mostar’s Old Bridge is an incredible attraction, a vital structure connecting the city’s two sides, and arguably Bosnia and Herzegovina’s most iconic symbol. I love it as much today as I did in 2009.

Kujundžiluk

Mostar’s old town is small but perfectly formed, ostensibly consisting of three cobblestone streets that snake towards and away from the Stari Most. In truth, it is a little bit too tourist-centric today, but that is an unavoidable trend and one I can’t really complain about while I write these guides. The views of the Stari Most are gorgeous, and there are some decent little cafes, shops and restaurants. Curious about the colourful buildings? We can thank Montenegro-born artist Mirko Kujačić.

Stara Gimnazija

Orange and yellow shouldn’t work as a colour combination, but Mostar’s Old Gymnasium shatters that misconception. Constructed in 1893, the school has been the jewel in Mostar’s educational crown ever since, teaching youngsters all sorts of everything and being one of the city’s most gorgeous buildings simultaneously. One of the country’s outstanding examples of Moorish Revival architecture, the Stara Gimnazija sits on Spanish Square, across from the destroyed Ljubljanska Banka tower. Španski trg, +387 36 315 216

Mosques

Mostar has many gorgeous mosques, most of which are found on the eastern side of town. The Karađozbegova Mosque (Braće Fejića) is the largest in Herzegovina, a stunning structure from the early 16th century that is open for visitors to explore. My friend got married here, and holy moly, was it gorgeous. The views from the minaret of the Koski Mehmet Pasha Mosque (Mala Tepa 16) are fantastic, although the walk up is narrow and can be frustrating as heck during busy hours. Those are the two main mosques in town, but pretty much all of the mosques are gorgeous, from the quaint Lakšića Mosque to the Nezir-agina Mosque, which overlooks the darling Kriva Ćuprija.

Partisan Memorial Cemetery

If you are lucky, Mostar’s Partisan Memorial Cemetery will be cleaned and tidied up when you visit. More realistically, it will be neglected, dirty, and covered in fascist graffiti. Way out on the western side of the city, not far from the stadium, the Partisan Memorial Cemetery is an impressive piece of conceptual architecture, the work of beloved spomenik designer extraordinaire Bogdan Bogdanović and a noted favourite of ol’ Tito himself. It pays tribute to the men and women who lost their lives in the fight against fascism, which makes it all the sadder that idiots so frequently deface it.

Muslibegović House

Mostar’s Muslibegović House is a fascinating window into the life of the Ottoman wealthy, all decadence and luxury in a beautiful building flooded with light. The complex dates to the 18th century and contains various artefacts in ostentatious rooms. The Muslibegović family came to Mostar when Herceg Novi fell to Venice in 1687, although they already had fingers in many pies around the region. Wealth will do that, you know. Osmana Džikića 41, +387 36 551 379

Church of St Peter and Paul

If you can’t find this church, I don’t know what to tell you. The tower is flippin’ massive, unnecessarily large, to the detriment of its own aura. The church was constructed in 1866, but the tower has since been extended 107 metres into the air, making it the tallest bell tower in Southeast Europe. There is an excellent cafe behind the church. Franjevačka 1, +387 36 319 688

Cathedral of the Holy Trinity

Newly restored to the hills above East Mostar, the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity is the city’s primary place of Orthodox worship. The original was completed in 1873 but was destroyed during the war, with reconstruction taking a long time. It isn’t the flashiest of churches, but does it need to be? This isn’t a beauty contest. Pay attention to the three large clocks on the sides of the building, each donated by a member of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s three main faiths. 29. Hercegovačke Udame Divizije 29, +387 36 554 121

Kriva Ćuprija

The Stari Most’s little brother, the Tails to its Sonic, the Robin to its Batman, the yadda yadda, you get the idea. The Kriva Ćuprija (Crooked Bridge) is a stone’s throw west of the Stari Most and follows a similar design, albeit on a much smaller scale. The bridge is surrounded by bars, restaurants and hotels, each vying for that most romantic view and somehow swallowing up what makes the Crooked Bridge so charming in the first place. It will forever live in the shadow of its more beloved neighbour, but the Kriva Ćuprija is plenty cute in its own right.

Buna

Buna will likely get its own guide at some point in the future, but it must sit under its municipality window for now. The Bunski Kanal is its main event, and rightly so, as it isn’t every day you get to gawp at a narrow canal channelling a river in a glorious setting. Elsewhere in town, the creatively named Hotel Buna (+387 36 480 000) is an excellent hotel and restaurant, and the village church is winsome as heck.

Fortica

The ultimate view of Mostar? Get up to Fortica. Sure, the main purpose of this relatively recent construction is the zip-line, but those views are the real show-stopper. What was that Andrew Neve lyric? This place makes me feel so tall, I can see all of Merseyside from here? Okay, this isn’t Merseyside, it is something altogether more beautiful, with a handily-placed cafe for the thirsty. I don’t want to write too much about it because you should really just head up here and take in the views themselves. If you must use the zip-line, a run costs 50KM. +387 61 175 762, info@zipline.ba

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Bloody hell, where to start? Mostar is packed with eating and drinking options, so it really depends on what you seek. I tend to gravitate towards the same few places, so I’ll give them top billing. Saray (Karađozbegova, +387 62 322 962) is a simple restaurant behind the Karađozbegova Mosque that usually ends up being my first stop in town, serving Bosnian classics with friendly service. Hindin Han (Jusinova, +387 36 581 054) is the best of the restaurants in the old town. Craft Beer Garden imaimože (Gojka Vukovića 4, +387 61 802 205) is one of the best craft beer spots in the country, with a range of brews from the region on top, the best service in town and occasional cherries for patrons. It might just be the best pub in the country. On the coffee front, Cafe de Alma (Rade Bitange, +387 63 315 572) is the place for Bosnian coffee, but no trip to Mostar is complete without nipping into Cafe Stari Grad (Onešćukova 2, +387 61 823 401) for a nostalgic chat with the Heljić family. Niđa Veze (Husnije Repca 3, +387 66 922 777) is also great, especially if you like tea.

Outside of my personal favourites, there is a lot to love. Del Rio (Kardinala Stepinca 12, +387 36 321 445) is away from the bustle of the old town and serves quality Italian food, while Shankly’s Pub (Dr Ante Starčevića 54) ticks both the beer and burgers boxes. Sticking with burgers, I’ve never had a bag burger at Blok Bar (Kneza Višeslava, +387 63 818 097), and Beer ti&ja (next door to Blok) is another brilliant option for craft beer lovers. Slastičarna Aldi 2 (the ground floor of Hotel Bristol, Mostarskog bataljona, +387 63 639 289) has a lovely terrace and decent cakes, while Tecó (Stjepana Radića 39, +387 36 320 123) serves excellent coffee and quality brunch, with plenty for vegetarians.

SLEEPING

There are loads of hotels and apartments in Mostar, but it is definitely a case of quantity over quality. That isn’t to say there aren’t good options; there are, but I can’t shake the feeling that the situation should be better. I was spoiled with years of Hostel Majda’s, I suppose. Hotel Pasha (Maršala Tita 62, +387 36 289 940) has friendly staff and decent wellness facilities, while the location and nostalgia of Hotel Kriva Ćuprija (Onešćukova 23, +387 36 360 360) make up for all the walking and the wretched WiFi. Hotel Mostar (Kneza Domagoja, +387 36 446 500) is good. I know an excellent family with a lovely little apartment by Spanish Square, so get in touch, and I’ll pass on those details.

MOSTAR