PALE city guide — John W Bills

Mention Pale to most in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and they’ll likely zero in on one of two things: winter fun and war. Both ends of the spectrum are represented there, but welcome to Bosnia and Herzegovina. Pale is just 11 miles east of Sarajevo, high in the hills and going about its thing as any regional centre would, albeit with a closet full of skeletons and mountains full of fun. Technically, it is a municipality within Istočno Sarajevo, but I’m not really sure how to approach Istočno, so here we are. As expected, it has long been an important stop on trade routes, with everyone from the Romans to the Yugoslavs setting up shop in these parts. It functioned as the administrative capital of Serb-held territory in Bosnia during the war, and its population has swelled in recent decades as Serbs from Sarajevo proper have headed in this direction.

TRANSPORT

Pale bus station (+387 57 222 900) is way bigger and better than you might assume, although why you are making assumptions about Pale bus station, I do not know. The toilets are downstairs, if you are looking, and the ticket window is down the hall to the right. There is a timetable, but it is on the platform, which isn’t really helpful at all, and there is usually a security dude standing by the (rarely actually in use) barriers. I say ‘security dude’, I’m assuming. Almost every bus that services Istočno Sarajevo heads through Pale, with connections to Bijeljina, Zvornik, Rogatica, Višegrad, and runs to Belgrade. There is a friendly cafe at the station entrance and a shop outside. I can’t remember if there is Wi-Fi, sorry. Don’t bank on it.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Ceković House

That’s right, I’m giving top billing to a grand old house. The Ceković House is Pale’s most elegant structure, originally built as an early 20th-century summer house for Risto Ceković (a wealthy tradesman) and his wife Vasilija. It took 13 years to complete, finally being finished in 1915, just in time for Risto to die. Reconstructed in 2007, the Ceković House is all show today, its wooden veranda and exposed beams displaying a grace absent from many other houses in these parts. It doubles as an exhibition centre, showcasing the best work from the Pale Art Colony. Romanijska bb.

Church of the Dormition of the Mother of God

I think that’s the name, although it could also be the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. They might be the same thing. Either way, despite the grandiosity of the new church in the pedestrian centre, this relatively modest construction is the spiritual heart of Pale. Before the church was built in 1909, Pale was a small settlement of fewer than 500 people, but Đorđe Grabež’s tireless work allowed the parish to have a church, and thus, the people came in droves. Build it, and they will come. The church is the central feature of a complex comprising two parish halls, a chapel and a WWI memorial, with four footpaths leading towards the structure. Want some fun facts? Here are three! The building was designed by Lazar Drljača, a rather curious fellow from the Krajina region, a man who collected paintings and was supposed to be a talented designer, yet this church is all that remains. When the contractor was doing his, erm, contracting, a clerical error meant the church was built slightly off-axis from east to west. Finally, it was used as a prison for horses in World War I. A lot of horse crime going on, I suppose. Historical tidbits aside, the church is the darling centrepiece of spiritual life here, a gorgeous structure that shimmers in humility. Nikole Tesla 2, +387 57 223 601

Church of the Council of the Holy Archangel Gabriel

Still under construction but almost finished, the Church of the Council of the Holy Archangel Gabriel was built to accommodate Pale’s growing population in the years of and following the war. It is a grand cathedral, that’s for sure, and its place at the end of the town’s main pedestrian artery means it has become a real community and social landmark in Pale. Work began in 2008 and continues, and the architecture touches on the usual Byzantine-style notes. Be sure to nip inside and have a peek, as there is something undeniably gripping about exposed brickwork in a large temple. Alekse Šantića, +387 65 721 481

Orlovača Cave

Located 6 miles west of Pale, Orlovača is second only to Vjeternica in the list of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s longest caves. First explored in 1975, around 8,200 feet have been investigated to date, with plenty more to come, and the findings have been fascinating. Evidence of cave bears represents the most intriguing, with the bones of one dating back over 16,000 years, and there have also been discoveries of tools used by prehistoric humans. The cave can only be visited with a professional guide between April and October, but anyone even vaguely interested in the subterranean world should make this a must. Well, not at the moment, as the cave is closed for rehabilitation.

Olympic Centre Jahorina

Olympic by name, Olympic by nature. I’m not entirely sure what I mean by that, but Olympic Centre Jahorina is almost certainly worthy of the word, whether through its status as the largest winter tourism resort in Bosnia and Herzegovina or the quality on offer from the slopes to the spritzers. Founded in 1923, the resort has changed dramatically over the last century and now boasts a vast range of slopes for daytime and nighttime skiing, snowboarding, and sledging facilities. Ski lessons are available for beginners and young visitors, and plenty of food and drink for those who just want to appreciate this gorgeous setting on the slopes of the Dinaric Alps. Not snowing? No worries, OC Jahorina has a fancy snowmaking machine. The winter adventures are readily apparent, but Jahorina is also a delightful spot in summer, with the crisp mountain air a major pull for locals and visitors. Pale is 7 miles north of the ski centre, so a taxi is your best bet. Olimpijska bb, +387 57 270 090

Ravna Planina

Hey, look, more skiing! Ravna Planina is just a couple of miles or so from the centre of Pale and serves up around 7 miles of trails for everyone from beginners to experts, along with a range of food and drink options for those in need of scenic satisfaction. The resort began operating in the 2014/15 season and is one of the most modern in the region, with plenty of lakes in the area adding another string to this most delightful bow. Of course, you could walk to Ravna Planina, but the whole “ski resort” thing suggests that will require plenty of uphill walking. Better to get a taxi. Jahorinski potok bb, +387 57 226 180

© KOMISIJA ZA OČUVANJE NACIONALNIH SOMENIKA BIH

Hadžišabanović Vila

Another in the long line of Austro-Hungarian-era villas left to ruin, Pale’s Hadžišabanović Vila is in a particularly dire state. Constructed in 1912, it was the summer residence of brothers who made their fortune in the sawmill industry, a business that dramatically expanded with the building of the railway to Višegrad in 1906. Today, it is whatever comes after death, a gorgeous villa left to rot that is either on the verge of collapsing or not even willing to do that. Jovana Cvijića, Gornje Pale

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Pale is fantastic on the food and drink front, with options everywhere you look. Not literally, of course, but there are lots of places to stop for refreshment on your travels through the town. The main pedestrian drag has lots of cafes on either side, with Vinoteka (Boška Jugovića, +387 65 296 127) stocking an impressive collection of wines and Bari (Vuka Karadźića, +387 65 640 601) being named after my buddy (Barry). Ambar (+387 65 466 203) and Astoria (+387 57 222 102) are good options close to the church. Elsewhere, Amphora (Srpska ratnika bb, +387 57 224 264) is a nice restaurant, Naša Priča (Svetosavska 1, +387 65 160 681) serves excellent traditional dishes, Dva Goluba (Karađorđeva bb, +387 57 226 233) is a decent option on the outskirts of town and Green Pub (Svetosavska 23, +387 66 408 923) may or may not be open these days. I got very drunk there many years ago, for what it is worth.

SLEEPING

There are heaps of decent accommodation options in and around Pale, with Hotel Jahorina (Olimpijska bb, +387 57 270 090) the obvious starting point. If you’d prefer somewhere in the town, head to Zlatna Žita (Sprksih ratnika 14, +387 66 774 777), a short walk from the main pedestrian drag. I stayed at Tihe Noći (Magistralni put bb, +387 57 931 503) a few years ago and had a delightful little stay, although it is a bit of a walk from the centre. Dva Goluba (Karađorđeva bb, +387 57 226 233) is next door, for something a little more formal.

PALE