ROGATICA city guide — John W Bills

I have a soft spot for Rogatica. Located a couple of hours east of Sarajevo in the hills, the town is essentially one long main street, with all the usual notes hit on either side, but something about it engages me. Fewer than 7,000 people live in Rogatica, and the town is famous for nothing in particular, with its main attractions arguably located outside of the town itself. That may be the point. The town has a living quality as a place where people do their business before retreating into nature for relaxation and recuperation. That nature is magnificent, for what it is worth, with gorgeous hills and vast meadows of shimmering peace and thrilling wildlife. Rogatica, you ain’t bad, buddy.

TRANSPORT

Rogatica bus station (Radomira Neškovića, +387 65 457 688) has bumper cars, so does that automatically thrust it into top spot? Maybe. I don’t know if the bumper cars are a permanent feature, but I’m happy to accept that. Sure, the station doesn’t have a cafe, the ticket window isn’t always open, the platforms are a bit of a mess, and there isn’t a toilet, but, you know, bumper cars. Rogatica has daily connections to Istočno Sarajevo, Banja Luka, Trebinje, Višegrad, and others.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Church of the Holy Trinity

Construction on this peaceful church ended in 1887, and the Kojić brothers pulled out all the stops in giving Rogatica a church to celebrate. The iconostasis was done by Anastas Bocarić (born on January 1, no less), although the original was destroyed or stolen in World War II. The church was the site of a bizarre tragedy in 1935 when a plane crashed nearby. People came to view the crash site (as you do), and clashes broke out between local Serbs and Muslims. The police got involved, and (as usual) everything got worse, with riots ensuing around town. I apologise if I’m oversimplifying that, of course. Today, the church is quiet and peaceful, with its jewel being an inscription using the old Bosnian Cyrillic alphabet. Vese Rackovića

Seoski Turizam Ziličina

Boy, howdy, this place is idyllic. Just 4km north of Rogatica, Ziličina is a serene spot of splendour, offering food, drinks, accommodation, activities, and all the magic the countryside provides. It isn’t a tourist attraction in a classical sense, but it is still a must, whether you visit for lunch or stay overnight. Heck, you can visit for the streams and greenery; that is more than justifiable. Selo Ziličina bb, +387 65 652 077

Bridge on the Žepa

The Bridge on the Drina took the Nobel Prize for literature, but what about the Bridge on the Žepa? Publishes in 1925, the short story is considered a rehearsal for the main event and is inspired by a delightful stone bridge 35km northeast of town. The bridge was originally at the mouth of the Žepa River but was dismantled stone by stone in 1966 and moved downstream when the Bajina Bašta hydro-power plant opened for business. The bridge is somewhat messy these days, but the myths and legends that come from it are as loud as ever. It is thought to have been designed by a student of famous Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. At the very least, it was designed by someone who learnt their architecture from the great man, directly or indirectly. The bridge sits serenely above the water, anchoring into the steep banks and looking much like it did when constructed in the 16th century (probably).

Sudžaudin Mosque

All of Rogatica’s historic mosques were destroyed during the war, with the town centre Sudžaudin Mosque the only central one to be rebuilt. Construction was completed in 2007 (the original dated to 1567), and the mosque carries itself with the sophistication and grace that I have come to expect from such buildings. The minaret is delightfully tall, and there always seem to be tiny kittens nearby. Srpske Sloge

Borike

Love nature? Get your buns to Borike, pronto, tonto. 110 metres above sea level and just 18km outside of Rogatica, Borike is all sweeping meadows and dense forests, a place where nature thrives in a way that only nature can. It is particularly famous for its 19th-century stud farm, which still breeds Bosnian Mountain Horses and offers scenic rides through the countryside in summer. If that isn’t Rogatica’s most romantic experience, I don’t know what is. Borike takes its name from the pine trees that fill it, and walking here is an exercise in escape. The good kind, of course.

Lađevine Stećci

Stećci, stećci, everywhere, and not a drop to drink. That isn’t exactly how that goes, but I’m sticking to it. Lađevine is another stećci wonderland, standing out from the crowd through sheer heft and an idyllic location in the hills above town.

Banja Stijena Cave

Caves are scary, but I am a wuss, so make of that what you will. Banja Stijena (also known as Mračna pećina, or ‘Dark Cave’, which doesn’t exactly fill me with glee) is 17km west of Rogatica and has an extensive network of channels within, although you are a braver person than I if you choose to explore. By the last count, it has four corridors traversing 1000 metres, with plenty of pillars and formations to engage. Still scary, though.

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

There is a rule that I just made up, but it feels inviolable. If the ćevabdžinica is next door to a butcher, it will be excellent. This centuries-old rule is definitely true in Rogatica, with friendly little Ćevabdžinica Nerić (Srpske Sloge, +387 58 415 484) serving up excellent grilled meat in delightfully old-fashioned surroundings. Stefani (Srpske Sloge, +387 65 222 518) is a pizzeria and cafe with a massive terrace, and the cafe at Hotel Park is almost always busy.

SLEEPING

Hotel Park (Srpske Sloge 32, +387 58 420 232) is the only game in town, and it isn’t a bad option. The beds are comfy, there is a mosaic in the reception and taxidermy in the hall, and the town centre location makes everything reasonably convenient. It is also a popular wedding venue, so keep that in mind if you are staying on a Friday or Saturday in summer. Seoski Turizam Ziličina (Selo Ziličina bb, +387 65 652 077) is an absolute dream outside of town, an oasis of serenity surrounded by hills and streams, perfect for escaping the noise of modern life. It is incredibly affordable, too.

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ROGATICA