SOKOLAC city guide — John W Bills

Sokolac is known as the heart of Romanija, a small town in those marvellous hills that does its thing without a care in the world. Romanija is a mountain and region in these parts, spanning Sokolac, Pale, Rogatica and Han Pijesak, but it is so much more than that. It is an idea, a meaning, a way of life, a process. It is poetry, song and thought. It inspires in spring, flourishes in summer and romances in autumn. Heck, it even delights in winter. It has been home to bandits, soothsayers, herbal magicians and all the rest.

And in amongst all of that is little Sokolac. Fewer than 6,000 people live in this unassuming little town, a compact place of churches, monasteries, and history, surrounded by hills and stories. For most, Sokolac is a stop on the road from Romanija to Sarajevo. For the truly curious, it is well worth more attention than that.

TRANSPORT

Memories of what used to be. Sokolac used to have a decent bus station with platforms, info and the rest, but those days are done. The bus station was closed as all heck the last time I stayed in town, and buses dropped off or picked up on the road next to the station. This isn’t helpful because I was dropped off on Zlatni Bor side and had to run like an idiot to catch the bus leaving town on the other side. I’d suggest asking at your accommodation but don’t expect a concrete answer. If you’re going to guess, I’d wait for the bus on the town centre side, by the entrance gates to the station. Sokolac is close to Sarajevo, so many buses heading from the east of the country dart through town.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Knežina Monastery

The monastery in Knežina was established in 1371 (approximately ages ago), although it was rebuilt in the 1960s. Yes, during the socialist years, but Yugoslavia wasn’t your standard socialist state. A wooden church stood here before the monastery, which goes by the name Church of the Saint Equal-to-the-Apostles Emperor Constantine and the Empress Saint Helen. I’ll stick with Knežina Monastery if you don’t mind. The monastery is small but perfectly formed, with a gorgeous location on a gentle slope 15 minutes north of town. Knežina bb.

Sultan Selim Mosque

If you’ve got a good arm, you can probably throw a tennis ball from the monastery to the Sultan Selim Mosque. Initially constructed in 1512 (by Selim the Grim, no less), the mosque was obliterated in 1992 and rebuilt in 2011, continuing a presence as old as any mosque in this part of the country. Knežina was a bustling trade centre during the Ottoman centuries, and the mosque was the beating heart of that community, around which markets, tanneries, crafts, mills and more developed. The opposite is true today, and the mosque sits in a valley of serenity. Knežina bb.

Mali Zejtinlik Military Cemetery and Memorial Church of St Petka

Part graceful church, part massive military cemetery, the Memorial Church of St Petka is a place for remembrance and contemplation. More than 1,000 soldiers are buried here, all of whom perished in the wars of the early 20th century, men of all ages. The graves stretch on and on. The church plays second fiddle but does so beautifully, with fruit salad trim accentuating the white base. The cemetery is known as Mali Zejtinlik, after the vast military cemetery in Greece containing the graves of over 20,000 Allied soldiers (7,500+ of whom were Serbs). The complex is a kilometre or so north of the town centre.

Luburića Polje Necropolis

Stećci, stećci, everywhere, and not a drop to drink. The Luburića Polje necropolis is one of 30 such necropolises across the country that make up the UNESCO World Heritage list. This is actually two spots, one at Ploče with 51 tombs and another at Bare holding 83. The two spots are 150 metres away from each other, 5km east of town.

St George Monastery

Ravna Romanija is a small village 12km west of Sokolac, and it holds the St George Monastery. All the usual tranquil boxes are ticked, with an added flourish, although that may be too bombastic a word for the subject matter. The walls are filled with the names of fallen soldiers, frescoes, and other religious works. Construction on the monastery began in 1996 and ended in 2003.

Church of St Elijah

The church in the centre of Sokolac was originally constructed in the late 19th century, but German bombs levelled it during World War II. Not to be deterred, the Church of St Elijah was rebuilt in the 1960s, although not before the Partisans used it as a grain storage, a common theme across the region. Was that by design or by necessity? I’ll talk about the crassness of the Partisans in time, but for now, enjoy the sophisticated tower and winsome domes of Sokolac’s central church.

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

You wanna head where the cool kids go, right? Cafe Kod Jara (Cara Lazara, +387 57 448 420) is the place to go, and you’ll get some tasty Jelen for your troubles. Okay, you’ll get some Jelen. There aren’t many great options for food, this being a tiny town and all that, but Viktorija 2 (Cara Lazara 55, +387 57 401 111) does a decent pizza. Konoba Kum (Kazani bb, +387 65 144 911) is a delightful tavern just a couple of kilometres outside town, serving traditional food in a lovely setting. Zlatni Bor is the best coffee place, which is lucky, as you’ll probably stay there.

SLEEPING

Zlatni Bor (Gruja Novakovića bb, +387 66 953 726) is the only real option in town. It was being renovated when I was last there, which didn’t stop it from being a decent option with a good cafe and an excellent breakfast. Konoba Kum (Kazani bb, +387 65 144 911) is also a charming option, with wood everywhere and a love of all things Romanija.

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