VIŠEGRAD
© John Bills
For a town of this size, Višegrad sure does occupy a large piece of regional history. Tucked away in the hills of Eastern Bosnia, Višegrad is best known as the setting of Ivo Andrić’s famous The Bridge on the Drina, and the bridge at the heart of it all is a showstopper. In fact, Andrić dominates the cultural landscape here, and Višegrad is a must-visit for anyone interested in the life and work of Yugoslavia’s most famous writer. The 20th century was grim for Višegrad. World War II saw massacres of Serbs, while the Bosnian War saw Bosniaks massacred across the area. In 1991, the municipality was 64% Bosniak. Today, that number has dropped to 10%. It is naive to visit Višegrad without acknowledging that.
TRANSPORT
Old Railway Station © John Bills
Višegrad doesn’t have a bus station in a physical sense, but buses do stop here with relative regularity. Buses leave from the car park opposite Hotel Višegrad, while some stop by the bridge on the other side of the river. In general, it is best to double-check with the tourist info centre (Kralja Petra bb, +387 58 620 821), just to be safe. I once joined a night bus to Trebinje that stopped at Motel Okuka, so there you go.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
© John Bills
Mehmed Pasha Sokolović Bridge
A Nobel Prize-winning bridge? Okay, Višegrad’s Mehmed Pasha Sokolović Bridge didn’t win the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1961, but this magnificent 16th structure inspired Ivo Andrić’s seminal The Bridge on the Drina, arguably the region’s most famous piece of literature. The story of its construction dominates that book, with all the myths and legends packed in, but you don’t need me to tell you to read it. The bridge is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is at the top tier of Ottoman-era architecture in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
© John Bills
Andrićgrad
Emir Kusturica is no stranger to controversy, and his time-machine mini-village in Višegrad is no different. Ostensibly dedicated to Ivo Andrić but covering much more than the Nobel Prize-winning author, Andrićgrad is a ride through the town’s history and the many different architectural styles of those centuries, as detailed in The Bridge on the Drina and beyond. There is an Ottoman quarter, an Austrian part, an Orthodox Church, a cinema (complete with a mural of Princip and his compadres), cafes, restaurants, bars and all the rest. In many ways, it has become the centre of modern Višegrad, albeit in a theme park sort of way. +387 66 703 722
© John Bills
Ivo Andrić Memorial Classroom
The Ivo Andrić Memorial Classroom is, erm, the classroom where Ivo Andrić attended school. That sounds simple enough on the face of it, but there is plenty to fascinate here. The classroom is a window into late 19th and early 20th education in these parts, with photographs and maps adding extra context to Andrić’s early education. Entry is 2km, but feel free to donate a little more. You’ll need to contact the tourist info centre ahead of time to schedule a visit. Ive Andrića 10, +387 65 496 240
© John Bills
City Gallery & Library
Višegrad’s City Gallery is organised by a splendidly enthusiastic local chap with a deep passion for art and a profound love of his town. The gallery eschews flashy set-ups to focus on the work, with frequent exhibitions and other events occurring here. The City Library is in the same building, another must for Andrić pilgrims, with the great man’s works translated into a broad range of languages. There is also a special Ivo Andrić Corner, which is a nice touch. Užičkog Korpusa 14, +387 58 620 397
© John Bills
Okay, all the other Andrić stuff
It would get a little excessive if I gave all the Andrić stuff individual write-ups, especially considering the size of photos on this damn website. The bridge, Andrićgrad, the classroom and the library are all fascinating, but don’t forget the murals, the memorial, the Ivo Andrić Library in Andrićgrad, and the pièce de résistance, the very house in which Ivo Andrić grew up. Make yourself an Andrić itinerary, and away you go. For Darwin in Shrewsbury, read Andrić in Višegrad.
© John Bills
Dobrun Monastery
12km from Višegrad sits Dobrun Monastery, a peaceful Serbian Orthodox monastery that traces its beginnings to the 14th century. It remains active today, an impressive feat considering the scale of destruction wrought on the sanctuary by the Nazis in World War II. Not everything survived, not much, in fact, but what did is worth appreciating. Many frescoes were saved by the chance of a small stone wall, and the complex’s gallery is packed with detailed art and no shortage of stories. If you think you can see a statue of Karađorđe in the hills behind, you aren’t imagining things. +387 58 612 024
© John Bills
Written Rock
Not the easiest to get to, but a must for anyone interested in unexplainable art found on cliffs. The Written Rock (Pisana Stijene) drawings are located near the village of Žlijeb, 17km north of Višegrad and within spitting distance (not literally) of Serbia itself. There are several drawings on the rock, some resembling birds, others resembling crosses, and nobody is entirely sure why, how or when they arrived. A mystery, for sure. Žlijeb
BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES
© John Bills
Andrićgrad has a couple of decent food options, but I recommend doing your dining in Višegrad proper. Anika (Ive Andrića 36, +387 65 263 758) is traditional Balkan cuisine at its most darling, and Kruna (Kralja Petra bb, +398 58 620 352) isn’t bad either. There are several cafes in the main square next to Hotel Višegrad, and they are largely indistinguishable, so consider an espresso at Caffe Baron (Kralja Petra, +387 66 724 758) if it is open. Goya (Andrićgrad, +387 66 546 667) was the first cafe in Andrićgrad and remains the best. Sticking with Andrićgrad, Zlatna Moruna (Andrićgrad, +387 65 445 674) is the best dining option there, although the interior is a little wacky.
SLEEPING
© John Bills
Višegrad is a small town, but the bridge’s popularity means there are a few options for sleeping, snoring, dreaming and the rest. Hotel Višegrad (Palih Boraca 6, +387 58 620 710) is practically on the bridge and is decent enough without being fantastic. As mentioned in the transport section, Okuka (Vojvode Stepe bb, +387 65 998 761) is a motel at the other end of town, while I had a delightful stay at Lotika Sobe (2. Podinjske Brigade 56, +387 65 998 798) back in 2018. Friendly, friendly people.
READ MORE
