VLASENICA city guide — John W Bills

I’ll keep the intro brief. Vlasenica was once known as Birač, but its modern name supposedly comes from the grass found in these parts, which is delightfully humble. The name, not the grass. The first written traces of the town as a functioning whole come from 1244, and its location made it a prominent hub of trade, with people stopping to enjoy the famous herbs of these hills. Vlasenica became even more important during the Ottoman centuries as a true crossroads, a significant stop on postal and information routes. However, everything went to the dogs in the 20th century, with disease, famine, war, massacres and other violence finding a welcome home in Vlasenica. Writer Derviš Sušić was born here, although I only mention that to end on a relatively positive note.

TRANSPORT

Vlasenica’s bus station (Kralja Petra, +387 56 734 045) is downhill from the town centre and has seen better days. The dude working there is pretty curmudgeonly, although that could be because it was hot as heck when I last visited. The timetable may or may not be correct. There is a squat toilet and a couple of shops and cafes nearby. As mentioned, the town centre is an uphill walk away, but don’t complain now. Vlasenica is connected daily to Istočno Sarajevo, Banja Luka, Bijeljina, Zvornik, Srebrenica and others, with daily departures to Belgrade. The station has a little restaurant, but I have never seen anyone enter or leave.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Square of Serbian Fighters

Under construction when I was last in town, the main square in Vlasenica is dedicated to Serbian soldiers who died in the many wars of the 20th century. There is also a statue of Momčilo Gavrić, the eight-year-old boy who responded to the callous murder of his entire family by heading into the mountains to join the army in World War I. Yes, there is a lot more to that story than the relative briskness of that sentence, but I’ll get into that in due course. The square is close to Vlasenica’s primary area of commerce. Trg Srpskih Boraca

Church of St. Peter and St. Paul

As much as I’d like to start this with another comment about how Peter and Paul are inseparable, that is getting a little old. When I first explored Vlasenica, the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul was my first stop, as much because of its evident status as a landmark as anything else, but I’m glad I got there first. Completed in 1899, the church is a delicate expression of Romanija architecture, and it was actually built using stone from the Romanija area. The views of the town below are excellent, and the frescoes inside are typically elegant. Svetih Apostola Petra i Pavla

Hajrija Mosque

Vlasenica was a majority Bosniak municipality before the war, although the wave of brutality that took place means that few remain. The Hajrija Mosque remains, rebuilt following its criminal obliteration. The original was completed in 1892, and while it doesn’t shimmer with the same grace as many other mosques around the country, it is an essential symbol in the town. Svetosavska

Austro-Hungarian Prison

Not exactly a tourist attraction, and one that I know very little about, but it is arguably the most beautiful building in Vlasenica and thus must be highlighted. Located next to the bus station and Municipal Building, this alluring house started life as an Austro-Hungarian prison, built at the end of the 19th century as the Central European army continued to take over parts of the region. The current owner is somewhat awol, and a fabulously friendly man called Zack tried opening a bar in the basement, so keep an eye on this in the future because something excellent may happen here. That is a little strange to say about an old prison, but that’s the world we inhabit. Svetosavska 19

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Oh, how I dearly wish I could recommend the basement of the Austrian jail, but some things are too good to last. Zack, I wish you well. The best food and drink options in Vlasenica are in the town centre (uphill from the station), with Firma 18 (Trg Srpskih Boraca, +387 65 288 878) coming top of my coffee rankings and Kuća Dobrog Ukusa (Nikolaja Vladimiroviča, +387 65 521 447) winning the food. Fočak (Trg Srpskih Boraca) is ace but might be too rustic for most. Downhill, Motel M (Ilije Birčanina, +387 56 710 420) does decent food.

SLEEPING

Motel M (Ilije Birčanina, +387 56 710 420) is your option, a 10-minute walk from the bus station and, therefore, a 20-minute walk from the town centre. That isn’t ideal, but beggars can’t be choosers. There is a gas station next door for all your late-night snack requirements. Motel M is simple and friendly, with a decent restaurant and all the usual utilities.

VLASENICA