SARAJEVO BISTRIK guide — John W Bills

Bistrik is an old neighbourhood on the left bank of the Miljačka, stretching from the river up to the old railway station, with Megara and its eponymous street acting as its east and west borders. I think, anyway. Bistrik pre-dates the Ottomans but, as with many central areas, thrived once they arrived and set about building the city. The street that gives it its name is a sloping bugger, and your enjoyment of walking up it will depend on your fitness levels. The views are worth every curse word you expend on the way up. Hey, it could be worse; it could be Vratnik. Bistrik is largely residential, with several sophisticated mosques and a few significant sights. In a way, it is central Sarajevo at its most ‘Sarajevo’, but I feel like I say that about everywhere. Long story short, I like it.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Church of St Anthony of Padua

Consecrated in 1914, Sarajevo’s Franciscan Church and Monastery was built on the site of a former house of worship that wasn’t particularly cared for and decayed as a result. The original was the only Catholic Church in Sarajevo when it was built in 1882, although it quickly fell apart. The monastery section houses the central archive of the Franciscan Province of Bosna Srebrena, and the church’s interior ticks all the usual boxes. It is some heck of a beauty from the outside; look at that red. Franjevačka 6, +387 33 236 107

Sarajevsko Pivara

The history of the Sarajevsko Brewery isn’t your standard beer history. The original brewery was opened in Kovačići in 1864, but it found its current home in Bistrik in 1881, thanks to the efforts and money of Viennese mogul Heinrich Löwe. It was one of the largest breweries in Austria-Hungary and, subsequently, Yugoslavia, and played a significant role during the recent war as a source of fresh water. The Brewery Museum tells the tale, and the restaurant is more than decent. Look no further if you are after the best draught Sarajevsko in town. Franjevačka 15, +387 33 491 100

Bistrik Railway Station

I absolutely adore old railway stations, no matter their condition. Recently renovated (2022), Bistrik Railway Station is at the very top of the neighbourhood and harks back to a different time through its 19th-century vibes and, well, the fact that it is a railway station no longer in use. There isn’t exactly anything to do here, but it still warrants a visit for two particular reasons; the chance to visit a piece of Sarajevo’s history and the magic afforded by the views. Sarajevo is stunning from this vantage point. Put Mladih Muslimana

Emperor’s Mosque

The most important mosque in Sarajevo? Everyone can have their own answer to that question, but the Emperor’s Mosque is absolutely in the discussion. After all, this was the first mosque built in Sarajevo following the Ottoman conquest, although the original wooden structure (1457) has long since been replaced by the stone beauty (1565) we see today. The size of the place shows its importance; this is the largest single-dome mosque in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Many famous individuals from Sarajevo’s history are buried in the cemetery, and it is even said that Isa-Beg Ishaković - the city’s founder - was laid to rest here. Obala Isa-bega Ishakovića

Konak

A stunning complex by the church, Konak got its name from its standing as the residence of the Governor of Bosnia back in the Ottoman days. It is a gorgeous building, albeit one that could do with a bit of TLC. Important visitors slept here during the Austrian and Yugoslav years, Franz and Sophie among them, after they’d been shot. So yes, they were dead, but the autopsies took place here, making it a serious piece of regional history. The street and area take the same name.

Isa-Beg Isaković Hamam

Now a hotel, the Isa-Beg Isaković Hamam was the first public spa in Sarajevo. It was initially divided into male and female portions, and our old buddy Evliya Çelebi flippin’ loved it. It stopped working in 1887, was rebuilt in 1891, and was pretty much buggered by the time the war ended. It has been restored and is now a hotel. Did I mention that? I think I mentioned that. Bistrik 1, +387 33 570 050

War Museum Sarajevo 1992

It is a museum about the war. What else do you want me to say? Just down the street from the Franciscan Church and the brewery, the Ratni Muzej Sarajevo 1992 is run by a family who lived through the violence and touches on the horrors the city experienced during that awful time. Franjevačka 38

Tomb of Seven Brothers

On the other side of the Jedileri Mosque (also known as the Čokadžija’s Mosque) is the so-called Tomb of the Seven Brothers, although this is neither a classical tomb nor does it hold seven brothers. Well, that depends on your understanding of brotherhood; these seven souls were not bound by blood but suffered the same fate across different centuries and in different circumstances. Sulejman Pasha Skopljak gave the word for them to be specially designated, and this spot has become an important place for Sarajevans. Visit when guidance is needed, but make sure you don’t return from whence you came. Jedileri

Sarajevo Cable Car

Congratulations, Bistrik, you get the cable car. The reopening of Sarajevo’s Žičara was talked about for years and years, almost from the day it closed in 1989 (it was obliterated during the war), and in 2018 that long-sought-after moment arrived. 33 cars zip between Bistrik and Trebević throughout the day, offering fabulous views of the city on a ride that takes only nine minutes. The first ride leaves the station at 09:00, while the last car back is at 21:00. A return ticket costs 20km. Hrvatin bb, +387 33 548 704

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

I’m always surprised by the relative lack of options in Bistrik, but maybe I haven’t looked hard enough. There are a few down by the river, although my heart tells me it isn’t Bistrik if it isn’t up a hill. Still, Gondola Pub (Isevića Sokak 4) is a charming spot for coffee and drinks with some fabulous decor, while Park Prinčeva (Iza Hrida 7, +387 61 222 708) is super-popular for good reasons. Those views, that heritage, that food. The brewery (Franjevačka 15, +387 61 488 019) is a good food option and arguably the best beer option. Well, it definitely is the best beer option; I’m just trying to be subjective.

SLEEPING

To break up the monotony of short texts, let’s go ahead and do this one in list form. Does that mean you can assume I always planned on doing this in list form, forgot, and only remembered when I came to upload Bistrik? No comment. ApartArt (Obala Isa-Bega Ishakovića 6, +387 66 777 101) gets its own little celebration, however, as those apartments are excellent and the staff are magnificent.

Isa-begov Hamam i Hotel (Bistrik 1, +387 33 570 050)

Hotel Bistrik (Bistrik 34, +387 33 475 475)

Hotel Nacional (Bistrik 37, nacional.garni@hotmail.com)

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