Sarajevo Centre guide — John W Bills

Okay, this isn’t a neighbourhood, but this is my website, and I’ll write what I want. This part of the city centre isn’t Baščaršija, it isn’t Bistrik, it isn’t Marijindvor, and it isn’t Mejtaš, so what is it? Centre, I’m calling it centre. Ferhadija is the main street, a pedestrian walkway that eventually joins up with Titova and the traffic. The street (named after 16th-century governor Ferhad-bey Vuković-Desisalić, if you were wondering) is packed with shops, cafes, attractions, a couple of parks and plenty of shade. I live in this part of the city at the time of writing, so hooray for me.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Sacred Heart Cathedral

The Sacred Heart Cathedral has a special place in my heart, but that is a story that shall remain untold. It is the centre of Catholic attention in the city, and rightly so, being one of the largest cathedrals in Bosnia and Herzegovina and a bloomin’ beautiful one at that. Construction began in 1884, and it would be five years before the cathedral was consecrated. The stained glass windows are beautiful inside, and treasures for the attentive fill the cathedral. A silver statue of Pope John Paul II stands outside. Be sure to get a picture of the church from the end of the pedestrian street. Trg Fra Grge Martića 2, +387 33 210 281

New Orthodox Church

Okay, Sarajevo’s largest Orthodox Church isn’t exactly new (consecration came in 1872), but it sure as heck is newer than the Old Orthodox Church. It is a beauty, blessed with a delightful location in the city centre next to Alija Izetbegović Square, and the interior hits the notes you expect from an Orthodox Church, namely gorgeous art and decadent fixtures. Zelenih beretki 1, +387 33 269 261

National Theatre

Fun fact, I can see the National Theatre from my desk. Established in 1921, the theatre has a decent repertoire throughout the year, from international classics to regional favourites and beyond. The building is exceptionally classy, another excellent structure designed by Karel Pařík. Obala Kulina bana 9, +387 33 665 959

Eternal Flame

I have no idea how these things work, but that isn’t important. The Eternal Flame in Sarajevo is a monument dedicated to lives lost in World War II, which opened in 1946 on the first anniversary of the city’s liberation from Nazi forces. The flame is at the start/end of Titova Street, splitting into Ferhadija and Mula Mustafa Bašeskije. The building above it is stylish (it is a former Landesbank office), but it is the flame that matters. The inscription behind it pays tribute to Yugoslavs of all nations, who came together against the pernicious evil that threatened these parts in the 1940s. Maršala Tita bb

National Gallery of Bosnia and Herzegovina

Sarajevo’s National Gallery showcases rotating exhibitions of Bosnian artists and a floor dedicated to the best of the best the country has produced. That top floor is the real pull, with works by Ismet Mujezinović, Gabrijel Jurkić, Đoko Mazalić and many more, covering landscapes, portraits and the rest. The gallery hosts more than 6,000 works of art and is considered the numero uno institution of its kind in Bosnia and Herzegovina. I’m not about to disagree. Zelenih beretki 8, +387 33 266 551 (5km)

Ferhadija Mosque

The Ferhadija Mosque is Ottoman-era mosque building at its best, and the 16th-century structure fits seamlessly in with the myriad styles of architecture surrounding it. That is one of the primary objectives of a mosque, after all, the ability to fit community surroundings like a glove. The portico (complete with small domes) is charming, while the minaret is another triumph of the genre. Pay attention to the intricate decorations, both on the doorway and the interior. Ferhadija bb

Ali Pasha Mosque

Another classical Ottoman-era mosque in Sarajevo, the Ali-Pasha Mosque stands out as a beacon of history on a street otherwise filled with modern constructions. Completed in 1561, it is the largest sub-dome mosque in the country. It is surrounded by peaceful greenery and a turbe housing the sarcophagi of Avdo Sumbul and Behdžet Mutevelić, activists who were among the many murdered by Austro-Hungarian forces at the concentration camp in Arad (modern-day Romania). Hamze Hume bb

Bosnian Cultural Centre

A hop, skip, and jump from the National Theatre, the Bosnian Cultural Centre is exactly what you imagine a Bosnian Cultural Centre to be, namely, a centre for the celebration of Bosnian culture. Established in 1966, the centre is in an old synagogue, what was once the spellbinding Il Kai Grande but is today an altogether more simple construction. It works, however, and the centre’s calendar is packed with events covering everything from theatre to publishing, music and more. Branilaca Sarajeva 24, +387 33 586 777

Veliki and Mali Park

Big and Little Park, if your Bosnian isn’t the best, are pleasant places to stop during the scorching summer months. There are some stirring monuments here as well. The most notable is the Memorial to the Murdered Children of Besieged Sarajevo, a plinth bearing the names of over 500 children murdered during that brutal time. There is also a monument of Ramo Osmanović, one of the 8,000+ murdered at Srebrenica, callously forced by VRS soldiers to call out for his son, promising safety. Both were subsequently murdered.

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

© Christophe Cappelli // Shutterstock.com

Ferhadija is packed with eating and drinking options, as are the streets that jut off it, so picking standout spots isn’t the easiest of tasks, especially with one eye on the word count. Starting with coffee, you can’t go wrong at Fuka (Ćemaluša 12), Cordoba (Trg Djece Sarajeva 1, +387 33 217 368) or Opera Bar (Branilaca Sarajeva, +387 33 831 647), although do let me know if you do go wrong. I have spent much time drinking espressos and large bottles of water at Bečka Kafana ((Vladislava Skarića 5, +387 33 580 570), as much for the interior and nostalgia as the drinks themselves. The cakes also look pretty good. The views from Hotel Hecco Deluxe (Ferhadija 2, +387 33 559 995) are fantastic. Food can be found everywhere, but BarSa (Sime Milutinovića 12, +387 33 848 913) is always busy for a reason. Tavola (Maršala Tita 50, +387 33 222 207) is also excellent, while U2 (Kulovića 13, +387 33 215 700) and Surf n’ Fries (Kulovića 4, +387 61 818 198) make for a brilliant one-two after a few drinks. Speaking of which, the beer and burger combo of Fabrika Gastro Pub (Ferhadija 12, +387 33 870 871) make it a must, while Celtic Pub (Ferhadija 12, +387 33 834 576) will forever have a place in my heart for reasons that will remain unsaid. Jazzbina (Maršala Tita 38, +387 61 311 523) has frequent gigs and pub quizzes, and Old School Cafe (Maršala Tita 38D, +387 65 286 779) is cute. Rajvosa (Kulovića 2, +387 33 205 371) is also decent, somehow being both a living room dive bar and tranquil cafe terrace all at once. There are a couple of decent spots around Hotel Europe, with Ort Bar (Sime Milutinovića 15, +387 62 304 702) and Deco (Zelenih beretki 22, +387 61 934 935) the standouts.

SLEEPING

Hotel Europe (Vladislava Skarića 5, +387 33 580 400) and Hotel Hecco Deluxe (Ferhadija 2, +387 33 559 995), as mentioned above, although my knowledge of hotels in this part of town isn’t the strongest. I live here, after all, so I’d say that the best place to sleep is my darn bed. I know that doesn’t help, but you’ve got 1,000 words of info before this, so I can only apologise. Hotel Central (Ćumurija 8, +387 33 561 800) looks nice, but they sort of misled me when it came to a gym membership, so make your own mind up there.

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