GACKO city guide — John W Bills

It’s difficult to look past the power plant, right? Power plants get a rough ride, but as a child of the ‘80s, I do view them with a certain awe. I blame The Simpsons. Power plant aside, what to make of Gacko? A small town in East Herzegovina, fewer than 6,000 people call it home in the 21st century. The 20th century was rough for the town, from the massacres of Serbs in World War II to the violent expulsion of non-Serbs in the most recent war, and the 21st century has only brought economic insecurity. All that aside, what to make of Gacko? Klinje Lake is a stunner, that’s for sure, and the town itself is home to a collection of sacred structures, interesting monuments, and friendly cafes. I had a charming conversation with a 12-year-old kid here as I wandered out to the power plant. If memory serves, his name was Nikola, but I can’t be sure. We talked about Gacko and the importance of patience. There was a lesson in there, but it escapes me today.

TRANSPORT

Despite being relentlessly positive (honest), I can’t get too excited singing the praises of Gacko bus station (Stojana Kovačevića, +387 59 472 533). There isn’t anything wrong, of course, and it is everything you’d expect from a bus station in a small provincial town. The ticket office, cafe and toilet share the same space, although it feels a bit weird now that I’ve typed that. The toilet is behind a door, obviously. There is something nostalgic about it all, which is always a plus, although I could do without the nudey calendars and photos of Mladić and Karadžić. Gacko is on the route between Mostar and Trebinje, and there are also daily buses to Istočno Sarajevo, Banja Luka and Bijeljina, not to mention runs to distant cities like Belgrade. The station is in the town centre, and there are a couple of nearby kiosks for snacks and water.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Churches of the Holy Trinity

Somewhat confusingly, the two churches in the centre of Gacko carry the same name, which is a pretty awful idea no matter who deigns it. The original Church of the Holy Trinity is located a short walk from the bus station and is undoubtedly the more charming of the two, dating to the late 19th century (1884) and elegantly going about its business with a parish house, plenty of grass, and a couple of monuments to live lost in battle. The New Church of the Holy Trinity is the large one next to the bus station. Construction started in 2002 and finished many years later, but the bulky size of the place makes it feel somewhat out of place. Trg Sava Vladisavljevića

Klinje Lake

Ever wondered where the highest artificial reservoir in Republika Srpska was? Wonder no more, because the answer to your sleepless nights is Klinje Lake, just outside Gacko. It was also the first artificial lake in Bosnia and Herzegovina, created towards the end of the 19th century as Austria-Hungary set about plundering the landscape for all it was worth, the lake’s purpose being the irrigation of Gacko Polje. What’s that, more accolades? You better believe it! Klinje Lake is also the site of the oldest stone arch dam in the region, and that same dam is arguably the aesthetic highlight today. The lake’s days of irrigation are long gone, and it now serves as a popular recreational spot in summer.

Mehmed Spahija Zvizdić Mosque

Also known as the Metohija Mosque (Gacko was originally called Metohija), the first incarnation of this house of Islam dates to 1760 when it was constructed under the watchful eye of the man after whom it is named. As usual, there are conflicting opinions about his life, with many believing he was a chap called Đuro who converted to Islam in the 18th century, continuing to make bags of money (not literally) until there was enough in the pot to build this mosque. It has been destroyed on more than one occasion but always rebuilt, and the current structure was completed in 2015. Much of its surrounding heritage is lost, leaving only the simple yet sophisticated mosque and minaret. Njegoševa 1

Crown of the Fighters of Gacko

Directly opposite the bus station in Gacko is a large crown, a monument to those who died here during the war. Three bronze soldiers adorn the top of the memorial, and a marble plaque lists the names of the dead. The monument stands in front of the old municipality building, across the road from the big ol’ church.

Sava Vladislavić Monument

While the monument itself is pretty standard (a dude looking out from a plinth), the man in question lived a life that was anything but. Am I okay with saying that Sava Vladislavić was Gacko’s most famous son? Okay, he was born in nearby Jasenik, but we’re splitting hairs here. The family was driven out by the Ottomans and eventually settled in Ragusa (Dubrovnik), and you can insert your silver lining comment here. As traumatic as I’m sure it was, the move allowed Vladislavić to get a good education and embark on a career as a merchant, travelling far and wide and eventually working in the court of Peter the Great, embarking on diplomatic missions everywhere from Rome to Beijing. A monument to the man is in the centre of Gacko today, next to the Church of the Holy Trinity v2.0. Trg Sava Vladisavljevića

© Sladjan Spasojevic // Shutterstock.com

Lake Desivoje

It doesn’t get the attention afforded to nearby Lake Klinje, but Desivoje is every bit as delightful. Immense efforts were made a decade or so ago to clean it up and create a public association for the lake’s use, but there is a work-in-progress feel to it all. Still, Desivoje is gorgeous, a fabulous spot for a picnic while travelling between Foča and Gacko.

Gacko Power Plant

I’m not going to try to convince you that the Gacko Power Plant is a tourist attraction. It clearly isn’t. Quite the opposite, in fact, and an increasingly climate-conscious world might prefer if it was removed entirely. Alas, life isn’t so simple, and despite the billowing clouds of anchor it emits, I can’t help but look at the plant with wide eyes and a certain sense of awe. It isn’t pretty, but much like any massive feat of engineering, it is damn impressive. Maybe it is a childhood of The Simpsons, or perhaps a family-bred respect for factories, but something about it attracts the eye and does not let go. Opened in 1983, the power plant utilises the coal reserves that lie under Gacko, one of the largest reserves on the planet, but the life and future of the plant are decidedly foggy. There were plans to build a second plant in cooperation with a Czech company in 2006, but the Czechs pulled out because the local company kept reneging on agreements and expectations. For now, the plant remains on the outskirts of Gacko, the main function of the town but also its biggest problem.

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Food and drink in Gacko is a case of quality over quantity. Urke Caffe Bar (Nemanjina 6, +387 65 616 869) is much more delightful than the “caffe bar” moniker suggests, with a sunny terrace and charming interior accentuated by a varied menu and some delicious food. The Doder’s Pub (Nemanjina 30, +387 65 396 493) is the best place to stop for a coffee or a beer (and a game of soft tip darts), while Gačanka (Nemanjina 1, +387 66 864 850) is also a decent option. If the sun is shining and you want to sit out in the rays, opt for the latter. Finally, Downtown (Stojana Kovačevića, +387 65 171 781) is a pub and cafe across the road from the bus station that usually gathers a lively crowd.

SLEEPING

Hotel Metohija (Nemanjina 1, +387 65 051 551) is the only real accommodation option in Gacko itself, and it resides in the cheap and cheerful pile, but the real value is heading out into the hills and staying in nature.

GACKO