SUTJESKA NATIONAL PARK guide

Bosnia and Herzegovina’s oldest national park, Sutjeska is a land of gorgeous forests, dramatic peaks, glistening rivers and (yes) tumultuous history. The park was established in 1962, although that declaration is thought to have had more to do with its place in Yugoslav Partisan battle history than the abundance of magical nature. The Battle of Sutjeska (1943) was kind of a big deal, and the park has the monuments to show for it. The park stretches over 17,500 hectares and is hemmed in by the Pivska to the east and Zelengora to the west. You can visit most of the year, although the snow can be pretty impenetrable in winter. Take precautions and use common sense, of course.

TRANSPORT

Sutjeska National Park (Dolina Heroja, Tjentište, +387 58 233 130) sits on the border between Bosnia and Herzegovina and Montenegro, with Foča just 30km or so to the north. Tjentište is the name of the village on the northern edge of the park, and buses run between there and Foča throughout the day. Obviously, to make the most of your time in the park, you’ll need your own wheels, so pack those documents and get yourself a ride. If you are driving from Sarajevo, take the M18, while visitors coming from Mostar will have to trundle down to the M6.1 to Gacko, moving onto the M20 for the rest of the journey.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Valley of Heroes

One of the most iconic spomeniks in the region, Sutjeska’s Valley of Heroes is packed with symbolism. The monument is on the northern edge of the park near Tjentište and commemorates those who fought and fell in the 1943 Battle of Sutjeska, an immensely bloody fight that legitimised the Partisans and changed the tide of the war down here. Tito’s army lost more than a third of its fighters in the battle but somehow came out on top. There is an entire memorial complex, with the famous winged monument at the heart. It was designed by Miodrag Živković and Ranko Radović and was constructed in 1971 after two years of graft, and remains in marvellous condition today. The nearby Memorial House is as fascinating outside as it is in, all sharp angles and importance. Keep an eye out for the smaller stone monuments around, and maybe embark on a Pokemon-style hunt.

Maglić

In hindsight, I should have given the highest peak in Bosnia and Herzegovina top billing here. Maglić takes that crown, and what a beaut it is. The mountain stretches 2,386 metres into the sky and straddles the border with Montenegro, giving predictably stunning views of the valleys below. That is if it isn’t draped in fog, of course, as it usually is. Magla is the Bosnian word for fog, although I’m not entirely sure if that is merely coincidental. Still, if the skies are clear, the world below takes on a new shade, with the surrounding peaks and glacial lakes shimmering. The hike takes about three hours, depending on your energy levels.

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Perućica

Primeval forest pilgrims, get your buns to Sutjeska National Park. Perućica is one of the last remaining forests of its type in Europe, an untouched marvel of green, much of which is utterly impenetrable, as it should be. These trees are old, older than old, the streams are crystal clear and delightfully invigorating, and animals prowl the growth as they have for millennia. Skakavac waterfall is its crowning jewel, a 73-metre plunge down the face of a cliff that excites even when seen from a distance. Perućica can only really be explored with a local guide or ranger, so don’t go wandering into the trees alone. You might not come out.

Zelengora Glacial Lakes

My aversion to hiking is pretty well-documented at this point, but the shimmering magic of Zelengora’s glacial lakes is enough to tempt even the most begrudging of hikers into their boots. Zelengora is exactly as advertised: a tidal wave of verdant nature that will make you reevaluate your opinion of the colour green, and its eight glacial lakes are gorgeous. Do you want a list? Here’s a list. You’ve got Gornje Bare, Donje Bare, Orlovačko, Kotlaničko, Štirinsko, Borilovačko, Crno Jezero (Black Lake) and Bijelo Jezero (White Lake). The Bares, the colours and Orlovačko are all within the borders of Sutjeska NP.

Zelengora

Actually, let’s give Zelengora a little more shine. A greener-than-green land of wild animals and wilder nature, the so-called wilderness of outstanding beauty lives up to its billing. Bregoč is its peak, and a well-marked trail leads the energetic all the way to the top, 2,014 metres into the sky. A deep canyon separates Zelengora from Maglić, and this is the gentler side of Sutjeska’s natural wonder.

Nurija Pozderac Grave

While I’m sure Nurija Pozderac would rather, you know, not be dead, the former Yugoslav Partisan sure found a gorgeous place to be buried. Again, that is a somewhat loaded statement, as the man from Cazin died here during the Battle of Sutjeska, and his grave is now a half-neglected spot on the road to the Dragoš Sedlo viewpoint. Pozderac was an integral figure in those first Partisan years, a hugely influential man in the fight against fascism and an inspiring focal point for the Bosniak side of things. He is also a member of the Righteous Among the Nations (along with his wife, Devleta) for rescuing Jewish citizens during the Holocaust.

Activities

John, when will you learn that people are more interested in activities than history? Make this the central theme of the Sutjeska guide, fool! No, I’m lumping it all into one description, which maybe shows my limitations as an expert. Sutjeska National Park is a magnet for adrenaline junkies, with everything from rafting to kayaking via hiking, canyoning, and mountain biking on offer. There are more sedate options, like photo safaris, horse riding, fishing, and various outdoor educational excursions. The official Sutjeska NP website (sutjeskanp.com) goes into more detail, with fabulous options included. I will become more active one day, but that day isn’t today.

BEDS, BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Hey, look, a new category! I should combine the sleeping with the food and drink every time. Being a vast wilderness of flora and fauna, Sutjeska National Park isn’t overflowing with food and drink options. However, there are some options around the entrance to the park on both sides of the divide. Hotel Mladost (Tjentište, +387 58 233 118) ticks all the boxes, with comfortable beds, hot coffee, plenty of beer and a menu of traditional Bosnian classics in a gorgeous setting. There is something reassuringly nostalgic about the place, which is rarely a bad thing. While no longer in use, the hotel used to have the biggest swimming pool in Europe, a massive thing that makes for quite the aesthetic today. Yes, I got a photo of me in the middle of it.

SUTJESKA NATIONAL PARK