LUKAVAC city guide — John W Bills

Oh, Lukavac, you poor bugger. What can I say? You might be the most maligned town in this part of the country. The glory days are gone, and Lukavac’s past as an industrial juggernaut has rendered it obsolete in the new world, a town marked by dead industry and a lingering cloud of what might not be particularly good quality air. This city of 15,000 or so people is only 15km west of Tuzla, which probably constitutes a positive. Hey, I didn’t say that all of these would be glowing. Lukavac, I wish you the best.

TRANSPORT

Lukavac has a decent bus station (Lukavačkih brigada, +387 35 554 981) in the town centre, a terminal that feels more nostalgic and old-fashioned than most in the country. Maybe that is the power of Lukavac, infecting everything with memory, or maybe I’m just being a little too flowery. There are plenty of platforms, a couple of kiosks, a ticket office, an out-of-date timetable and a locked toilet. You might get the key if you ask; who knows? There are direct buses to Tuzla, Gračanica, Mostar, Bijeljina and others.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Lake Modrac

The walk to Lake Modrac is a fascinating one. Essentially a straight line from Lukavac for an hour or so, the road takes you through a pleasant village before the final stretch to the lake, a stretch that works a little like one of those old socialist timeline-style pieces of art. First comes the industry, the functional side of the lake’s creation, before the humongous body of water takes over. Much like Lukavac itself, Lake Modrac has had its ups and downs, dealing with the overflow of industry and the neglectful tendencies of a small number of locals, but the magic of water is difficult to keep down. The lake was created in 1964 with a dam on the Spreča and covers a whopping 17km2, dipping into neighbouring Tuzla and Živinice. It is primarily used for irrigation and water supply, but let’s be serious; Lake Modrac is primarily used for people to look at and ask themselves why they don’t live closer to water. The lake is packed with fish (you’ll see plenty of fishermen on its shores), and the vibrant greens of the surrounding hills frame the scene with all the confidence of a veteran. For added fascination, a cable car system transports goods across the waters. If you’re looking to enjoy the waters a little longer, there are a couple of restaurants and hotels around the lake. A taxi to or from Lukavac costs about 7km. Jezero Modrac

House of Culture

First suggested by Džemal Nuhić in 1963, it took more than 15 years for Lukavac’s House of Culture to become a reality. For many, it was incomprehensible that a city of Lukavac’s size and importance didn’t already have one, but its planning and construction faced many problems, primarily the unceasing distance that stood (and stands) between plans and reality. The centre was opened on September 30, 1979 (the anniversary of Lukavac’s liberation), and initially contained a library, main hall, chess hall, bowling alley and facilities for a range of clubs from photography to music. Today, it mirrors Lukavac from the outside but continues to function as a place where ideas meet, and creativity is celebrated. The architecture of the place is definitely of its time and will appeal to those searching for Yugo-era structures. Keep an eye on the website for a schedule of events. Titova, +387 35 554 440

Vila Solvay

The most beautiful building in Lukavac? That distinction goes to Vila Solvay, the finest memory of the city’s brief flirtation with Austria-Hungary. Constructed at the beginning of the 1910s, it initially functioned as a health institution before the arrival of Fritz Miller, head honcho of Solvay, who decided to use it as his residence. Can you blame him? It is a gorgeous Art Nouveau structure, although I’m not entirely sure what state it is in today. The gates were locked when I was last in town, and everyone I asked was non-committal about its current function. Haunted house? Probably, it was an army hospital in World War I after all, but you’ll have to admire it (and its possible ghosts) from afar. Milerova

Memorial Park Macan Marije

Don’t be fooled by photographs of Lukavac’s Macan Marije Memorial Park. Sure, the World War II memorial still stands proud in its heart, but the surroundings have been neglected to some degree. The old train station nearby is on the verge of falling down, and the old health centre next door has become an informal residence for a family. A friendly family, that’s for sure, but still. The monument is impressive, of course, but the neglect overrides it, and dampens the entire point of a memorial in the process.

Lake Bistarac

It doesn’t get as much press as Lake Modrac, but Bistarac offers something more tranquil for lake lovers. Located a couple of miles north of the city, Bistarac is also a big-time spot for anglers, and you’ll find everything from carp to catfish lurking in its cerulean waters. The nearby Ontario complex has camping facilities, a restaurant, playgrounds and all the rest. Jezero Bistarac

Church of St Anthony of Padua

The main house of Catholic worship in Lukavac was constructed between 1928 and 1930, approved by Josip Štadler and designed by Karel Pařik. Its design doesn’t push any architectural envelopes, instead following a standard set by similar churches in Olovo and Sarajevo, but it more than meets the needs of the town’s parishioners. The church was built as Lukavac grew under the watchful eye of Austria-Hungary, and it radiates a certain serenity today. The church is smack-bang in the town centre, a short walk from the bus station and main pedestrian drag. Lukavačkih brigada bb, +387 35 553 350

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Believe it or not, the centre of Lukavac sort of feels like it has cafes and not much else. Both sides of the main street are lined with the things ranging from no-frills to, erm, frills. Molinari (Armije Republike Bosne I Hercegovine bb, +387 62 708 561) is the best of the bunch and is at the end of the street, meaning you can wander the whole thing before settling for a coffee, and Aqua is nearby if Molinari won’t do. Hollywood (Branilaca Bosne, +387 61 275 165) is also a decent shout. Mama Mia (Lukavačkih brigada, +387 35 553 839) is probably the best food option, and the Irish Pub (Mehmedalija Make Dizdara, +387 60 31 48 182) wins out on the beer front. Yeah, it is that kind of place. Of course, eating by Modrač is a win, and Robinzon (Prokosovići, +387 35 561 444) and Jezero (Prokosovići, +387 35 561 222) take care of that.

SLEEPING

There are a couple of sleeping options in Lukavac itself, with Hotel Millennium (25. Novembar, +387 35 550 840) at the top of the table, but the real money is found by staying out at Lake Modrac. If you have the opportunity to wake up next to a massive lake, you take that opportunity, right? Hotel Senad od Bosne (Prokosovići, +387 35 561 222) is the primary option and ticks all the boxes, with a decent restaurant and gorgeous views to boot, but I’m not sure if Robinzon is currently accepting guests. The restaurant is ace though, so do stop by for food. You’ll see plenty of hotel and motel signs in and around Lukavac, but many of these places are long closed.

LUKAVAC