GRADAČAC city guide — John W Bills

Here, there be dragons! Not those dragons, you weirdo. 60km north of Tuzla, Gradačac is forever linked to the life and times of Husein Gradaščević, better known as Zmaj od Bosne, the Dragon of Bosnia. To cut a long story short (and one detailed elsewhere here), HG was the leader of the fight for Bosnian autonomy in the 19th century, a leader of men whose fingerprints are found all over Bosnian identity today. His most famous tower was the one found in Gradačac, the town of his birth, and his presence remains an intangible inspiration for people in the area. Also, plums! Lakes! Tanks! Lillies! A shop called Semen! Visiting Gradačac is a must for anyone interested in Bosnian history, especially those who realise that history is more than the ‘90s.

TRANSPORT

There is something here, but it feels unrealised. Gradačac bus station (Sarajevska, +387 35 817 369) is on the edge of town and has seen better days, but there remains the hope of better days to come. The ticket office and waiting room are simple enough, and there is a timetable, as well as a kiosk that is occasionally open. There is also a shop nearby called Semen, which will never not be hilarious. Gradačac has daily connections to Sarajevo and Tuzla. There is a toilet, but you’ll need to ask the staff for the key, so you might as well just head to the nearby gas station to use theirs. Pick up some snacks while you are there, of course, don’t just crash in and use the bog.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Gradačac Castle

Here, there be dragons! Wait, I did that already? Gradačac Castle is the town’s most recognisable landmark, but it really feels like DRAGON LAIR is a better name. Whatever, it is what it is. Constructed at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries, this was the centre of Husein Gradaščević’s empire (not an actual empire), from where he rallied his people against the injustices perpetuated by the Ottoman overlords. Autonomy lasted a year, but what a year it was. The castle and its tower are on a small hill overlooking Gradačac, and while there isn’t a huge amount to see inside (a few paintings, artefacts, and a traditional Bosnian-style home), the views and aura make up for it. There is a cafe outside for the thirsty and a restaurant on the top floor for the hungry. They might be the same place across two different floors, but I’m not entirely sure. Nenavište bb

Banja Ilidža Gradačac

Always a bit weird to recommend a medical spa, but I think you can visit for recreational reasons, so here we go. Banja Ilidža Gradačac has been an integral part of the community since it was established in 1882, and today has modern saunas and massages along with various treatments. Superb service and excellent prices make it a winner, and its location between the two lakes isn’t too shabby either. Hazna bb, +387 35 852 300

Hasna & Vidara Lakes

Gradačac has two artificial lakes just outside the centre of town, perfect for waterside strolling and cooling off. Vidara is the larger of the two, but Hazna is a much more alluring affair, with benches and tables for lakeside picnics and contemplation. Hazna came into existence when Vidara flooded in 1964, if you were curious. Vidara could do with a bit of love and care, to be honest, but don’t be surprised if it gets spruced up in the future.

Lily Monument

There are several lily statues dotted around Bosnia and Herzegovina, and the one that sits peacefully in the hills outside of Gradačac is right up there with the best of them. Unveiled in 2017, it is a monument to those who sacrificed their lives defending the city during the war. The lily stands 16 metres high, which is pretty darn big for a lily, and is located 8 miles southwest of the bus station, on Kota Bandera (near a village called Jasenica). Kota Bandera

War Train

War Train sounds like a gaijin tag team from NJPW, but the reality is much darker than that. The War Train near Gradačac (actually the Oklopni voz, the armoured train) was an example of the almost-deranged weapons improvisation that grew during the Yugoslav wars. This was the product of Serbs from the Krajina region, who used a heavily armoured train to transport heavy weapons and provide support. There were plenty of these trains, but this one was ambushed and destroyed, and today is a reminder of those brutal times. The train is just outside the north of town, around 2 miles from the bus station.

Church of St Mark

The most striking church in Gradačac, the Church of St Mark is the main focus of Catholic faith in town. The stone structure was constructed in 1888, but a weird quirk led to it remaining unconsecrated until 2021, when the local Parish finished the job. Of course, there is a good chance it was consecrated but not documented, but evidence is key in the Catholic world. Badly damaged during the war, the church has since been returned to its Neo-Gothic splendour. Hazna

Church of St Elijah

Continuing the theme, the Church of St Elijah is the main focus of Orthodox faith in Gradačac. Designated as a national monument, the church was constructed at the end of the 19th century under Austro-Hungarian rule and was particularly beloved for the quality of paintings and iconostasis waiting inside. Time and neglect have done a number on both, unfortunately, and some of the damage is irreversible. The church itself is winsome, a single nave charmer minding its own business on the road from town to the bus station.

Husejnija Mosque

Every great dragon needs a mosque, and Husein Gradaščević was no exception. Constructed in 1826, the Husejnija Mosque is one of the Dragon’s great architectural contributions to the city, although you can put together the argument that he wasn’t the architect and whatnot. I don’t want to upset the dragon, so I’ll leave it be. The mosque has seen plenty of renovations over the years, with work constant on its gates and harem, but the interior is a star-like stunner the match of any in the country. The mosque was damaged in a fire towards the end of 2023, continuing its string of apparent bad luck. Karaula I

Bukvara Mosque

The Bukvara Mosque's wooden minaret helps it stand out in Gradačac, but it is the harem and accompanying tombstones that make it a delightful national monument. The mosque was constructed by residents of the neighbourhood at the beginning of the 19th century, and the oldest nišan here dates to 1847. There is a turbe, but it is thought to have been moved to Bukvara from another location. Žrtava Srebrenice

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

There are plenty of cafes in the centre of Gradačac, but none really stand out as particularly noteworthy. Cinema (Husein-kapetana Gradaščevića, +387 61 724 132) is worth a stop, while Best (Husein-kapetana Gradaščevića, +387 61 705 554) has a nice outdoor area for the summer. I didn’t nip into Divan (Husein-kapetana Gradaščevića, +387 61 992 332), largely because I was across the road at La Tavernetta by Friends (Husein-kapetana Gradaščevića, +387 62 911 611) enjoying a damn good meal, so the latter comes highly recommended by me. Condor (Husein-kapetana Gradaščevića, +387 62 905 850) does decent burgers and ice creams, but the lack of quality food and drink options in Gradačac (outside of La Tavernetta) is really quite puzzling.

SLEEPING

If you thought Gradačac was limited on food and drink options, just wait until you check out the accommodation spread. Bugger all, that is the short review, with no decent hotels and only a handful of private apartments available for those looking to stay the night. It is strange, as Gradačac is one of the most historically fascinating towns in the country, but here we are. Until this situation improves, you are best off visiting Gradačac as a day trip from Tuzla or staying at the excellent Hotel Monogram near Modriča.

GRADAČAC