GRAČANICA city guide — John W Bills

There are many Gračanicas across the region, but there is only one Gračanica. Yes, that doesn’t make sense, but if you tell me you are interested in visiting Gračanica, this is where I will describe. Staying on the theme, there are many clock towers in BiH but the one in the centre of this fun town is arguably the most impressive and best-known. It leans, supposedly, but you need pretty excellent vision to see that. For the record, I don’t have excellent vision. The city is 50km or so west of Tuzla and was first mentioned in the 16th century, by which point the Ottomans had already taken over. The brief Austrian period brought economic development, although that might have been more about the preceding Ottoman centuries than anything the Austrians did. They did bring the rail, so I shouldn’t slam them too much. Today. Gračanica is a delightful little town with curios attractions and waiters who know offensive stereotypes of the Welsh.

TRANSPORT

Gračanica has a shiny new bus station (Polje bb, +387 35 706 976) with a cafe and fast food spot, friendly ticket window, working WiFi and simple platforms. It is everything a simple bus station should be, with one frustrating exception: it is located a 30-minute walk from the city centre. Now, this isn’t all that awful if you are staying over, as Hotel Sax is a short walk from the station, but it is far from ideal if you are just dipping into the town. The old bus station (Mehmeda Vehbi ef. Šemsekadić bb) in the city centre sort of functions, although its days are clearly numbered. The cafe still serves a solid espresso, and there are taxis next to the old station for getting to its fancy contemporary. Gračanica taxi drivers are fabulously friendly, for what it is worth.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Sahat Kula

There are many Ottoman-era clock towers in Bosnia and Herzegovina, but the one in Gračanica is more adored than most. Come to think of it, there are many Gračanicas in Bosnia and Herzegovina, but mention the name to anyone, and they will only think of this charming town in the north of the country. Constructed in the second half of the 17th century, the tower leans slightly to the northwest and is the second-largest of its type in BiH. Building a massive clock in the centre of town made it easier for folks to know when to pray, a helpful addition when such an event happens five times daily. It is immensely photogenic. Alije Izetbegovića

Osman Kapetanova Madrasa

I had a delightful coffee in the courtyard of the Osman Kapetanova Madrasa, and I was transported to a different time through the magical combination of caffeine and circumstance. The madrasa was founded in 1800 by the father of Husein Gradaščević, but today’s aesthetic comes from the late 19th century. It has all the usual spots (library, kitchen, rooms), and the aesthetics are delightful. 22. Divizije

Bridge of Love

Love locks are lame as all heck, but there’s nothing wrong with a bridge being dedicated to matters of the heart. The bright red bridge in the centre of Gračanica is one such spot, although I’m not entirely sure how it all works. Still, come here with your significant other, have a smooch, and enjoy each other. Don’t leave a padlock because that compromises the bridge’s structural integrity over time. Yes, I am fun at parties. Mehmeda Ahmedbegovića

Ahmed Pasha Mosque

The city centre mosque in Gračanica is also known as the White Mosque due to the whole ‘being really white’ thing. Insightful writing there, John; well done. The mosque dates back to the second half of the 18th century and has been restored and renovated many times over the years, with its current look dating back to the beginning of the 20th century. The tarih over the entrance talks of the mosque’s restoration. Alije Izetbegovića

Colourful Mosque

I’m not entirely sure why it is called the Colourful Mosque, but then I wrote a book called “An Illustrated History of Slavic Misery” that didn’t contain illustrations, so what do I know? Also called the Mejdan Džedid Mosque, it is thought to trace its lineage to the 16th century, although it has been demolished, moved and rebuilt so many times that it inspires philosophical debate about change. It was initially on the other side of the river but moved to the right bank of the water because of flooding, was then moved again because of the nearby rails, and moved once more because of neglect and damage. Its current aesthetic is from 2008, and hopefully it has found its true forever home. M. Ahmedbegovića

Mensur & Hava

The war is packed with heartbreaking stories of lovers being killed in the grips of romance. Mensur Žepić and Hava Šerbečić died on this spot in April 1994, hugging on a bench when the city was attacked. A monument to the lovers was erected in 2012.

Gračanica City Hall

These pseudo-Moorish city halls are something, aren’t they? Add Gračanica to the list. Well, you should have added Gračanica to the list back in 1891, but I’m guessing you weren’t alive then. The building was initially a Konak (constructed in 1887) before being converted into the City Hall four years later, joining the roster of gorgeous institutions around Bosnia and Herzegovina. The architect is unknown, but it follows many of the usual lines, from the red and yellow stripes to the graceful windows and Art Nouveau touches inside. The Municipality Park is next to the vijećnica, with a sombre monument to the lives lost defending the city during the war. Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 1, +387 35 700 800

Mara Popović House

A gorgeous example of traditional Bosnian architecture, the Mara Popović House in Gračanica sits on the gentle slopes of the Varoš neighbourhood. It was constructed in 1840, most likely by Mara’s father-in-law, and most believe that Popović spent her entire life there. I’m sure she went outside from time to time, but you get the point. Now, I’m not entirely sure who Mara Popović was, and information is scant, but the house itself is a delightful beacon of tradition in an increasingly modern architectural landscape. Owned by the municipality, the building was an Ethnographic Museum before being used by the Gračaničko Keranje Association for Traditional Handicrafts (they have a window display near the madrasa), but was closed at the time of writing for an inspection. What kind of inspection, I’m not sure, but here’s hoping that gets cleared up sooner rather than later. Varoš

Gračanica Ćiro

Ćiro, baby! The Tuzla canton is Ćiro central, and the beloved Gračanica Ćiro gets pride of place in the town centre. A narrow-gauge railway was constructed in these parts at the very end of the 19th century (1895-1898) as Austria-Hungary continued to pilfer the mineral wealth of Bosnia. Despite my cynicism, the railway helped Gračanica develop, with its carriages transporting people, post and possibilities along with the various resources of the nearby mines. It ceased functioning on November 1, 1967, and this here train was placed on improvised rails in town to pay homage to Gračanica’s Ćiro heritage. Armije BiH

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Awareness of Welsh stereotypes aside, Cafe Times Square ’92 (Skver, +387 61 576 906) is a friendly spot with the usual run of coffees, beers and spirits. Caffe Bar Film (Gračaničke brigade, +387 35 702 955) ticks many of the same boxes and stocks Tuzlanski pivo. For early-morning lovers, the cafe next to the bus station does a decent espresso. Gračanica’s food options tick the usual boxes with grilled meat lovers in for a treat, with Kod Adila (Gradaščevića, +387 61 761 605) a homely favourite.

SLEEPING

Hotel Sax (Branilaca grada, +387 35 704 502) is a couple of kilometres outside the centre but offers spacious rooms, decent facilities, and friendly English-speaking staff. That’ll do; there's no need to overcomplicate this one.

GRAČANICA