BANOVIĆI
© Dzenan Besirovic // Shutterstock.com
Whisper ‘Banovići’ into the ears of a loved one, and they will likely reply with stories of industry, brown coal and hard graft. Firstly, you have a strong relationship. Secondly, they aren’t incorrect, and this surprising town in the northeast is primarily defined by its 20th-century discovery of coal. It developed along with the railway from Brčko, and its story follows the chapters you’d expect. Mines opened, people flocked here for work, things went well, the war ruined everything, and the future looks a little unsure. That would kill lesser towns, but Banovići is a determined place, one of the friendliest towns in the country and one packed with some fascinating attractions. Also, if you like trains, you are in for a wonderful time.
TRANSPORT
© TO Banovići
Banovići bus station (Alije Izetbegovića 124, +387 35 875 000) is a basic affair, with a curmudgeonly ticket office, locked toilet and cursory pockets of information. The location is good, so there is that, and the station is a short walk from the pedestrian centre. Banovići is well connected to Tuzla, with buses also heading towards Zenica and Travnik.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
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Ćiro
As card-carrying members of the Thomas the Tank Engine fan club, it is safe to say we love trains. The iron rooster played a more significant role in the development of Banovići than most, so it is fair to say that the famous Ćiro is at its most authentic here. Visitors can enjoy open-top rides on the famous locomotive, but be sure to call the tourist office to organise. Banovići and Ćiro go hand-in-hand.
© John Bills
Božićko Banović Stećak
You’ll find plenty of stećci in and around Banovići, but not all stećci are created equal. Located in a small cemetery in the village of Banovići Selo (7km west of Banovići) is a stećak in honour of the man who gave the town his name. That is Božićko Banović, for the record. The stećak is shaped like a roof on a plinth and showcases a five-line inscription in the Bosančica script.
© John Bills
Railway & Mining Museum
Okay, this place isn’t finished, but it deserves to be completed. The story of Banovići is the story of industry, and industry requires heavy machinery. In the centre of Banovići, you might notice a grassy area with several machines lying dormant, so feel free to check them out. One day, there will be a museum, educational workshops and tours. Banovići deserves it.
© John Bills
Turkish Cemetery
An admittedly vague description, but little is known about this place. The final resting place of lord knows how many souls, this peaceful cemetery (located near Tulovići) was discovered by an over-enthusiastic farmer after laying dormant for, well, nobody knows how long. The lack of information adds to the tranquil aura of the place, with gorgeous views and powerful resonance.
© John Bills
Misirlije Turbe
Another slice of Ottoman heritage in Tulovići is the Misirlije Turbe. Legend has it that a pasha from Egypt lies here, a brave warrior who fought for the Ottomans during their conquests in these parts. It seems like he was seven metres long (‘tall’ feels wrong), but that is obviously a point about status, not height. Again, you’ll need to work with the tourist office to check it out, as entering the turbe requires getting a key from someone in the village.
© John Bills
Radnički Dom
Once the life and soul of social life in Banovići, the Radnički Dom is more of a relic than a relevant spot today. It is a glimpse into the town’s not-too-distant past, and the Ismet Mujezinović mural in the entrance hall is one of the most impressive pieces of art in the country. Yes, the whole country. Banovići’s Radnički Dom also has one of the country’s largest theatres, with a special orchestra pit. The sign on top of the building is super cool. There is nostalgia here, but it isn’t sepia-tinged. Alije Izetbegovića 33, +387 35 870 274, closed at weekends
Konjuh
Konjuh, what a beauty you are. This magical mountain stretches 1,328m into the sky and is one of the most photogenic in the country, which is quite the statement. Konjuh is packed with life, from the dense flora to its brown bears, wolves, wild boars, snakes, and so much more. The wild wonderland offers plenty of activities for getting a sweat on, with hiking trails all around. Just watch out for the bears, I guess. Konjuh spreads across several municipalities, with the most significant chunk in Banovići.
BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES
© John Bills
The main pedestrian drag in the centre of Banovići is filled with cafes, so see what takes your fancy when in town. For food, treat yourself to Etno Avlija Mačkavac (6km south of Banovići, Hrvatska brana bb. Mačkovac. +387 61 296 136, etnoavlijamackovac1@gmail.com), a stunning slice of heritage that doubles up as a tourist attraction and restaurant. A living museum of sorts, Mačkavac is overflowing with historical artefacts, and the restaurant serves traditional Bosnian food in a most traditional ambience.
SLEEPING
© John Bills
Banovići proper doesn’t have many hotel options, but that’s okay because Hotel Zlača (+387 35 880 600) ticks all the boxes you might need. Located in the natural wonderland that is Konjuh, the hotel’s architecture is curious enough, with plenty of space inside to go with functional rooms. Wake up early and go for a walk in the forest.
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