TUZLA city guide — John W Bills

Tuzla is Bosnia and Herzegovina’s third-largest city, yet somehow it remains overlooked by most tourists. Why is that? It isn’t for lack of attractions, that’s for sure. Tuzla is best known for salt, the life-giving mineral that allowed the city to develop over the centuries. The Pannonian Salt Lakes (the largest such complex in Europe) are in the centre of town, making Tuzla the only city in Europe with lakes in its centre. That should be reason enough to visit, but Tuzla doesn’t stop there.

Tuzla has a rich history of protest and creativity, with a defiantly working-class populace giving birth to artists, writers and thinkers. Meša Selimović and Ismet Mujezinović are two of the best, and the Tuzla natives stand in eternal conversation in the city’s charming centre. Tuzla has great restaurants, excellent cafes, and the country’s best atmosphere, and it is also the perfect base for exploring the canton. I’m not allowed to say that it is the most interesting canton in BiH, but you can read between the lines there. The name comes from the Turkish word for ‘salt mine’, if you were wondering.

TRANSPORT

Despite its less-than-premium location, Tuzla has one of the country’s best bus stations (Bosne Srebrene 60, +387 35 320 325). The station is 2km west of the city centre, and while the walk is a simple one (a straight line), the whole ‘2km’ thing can’t be ignored. The station has a ticket office with (incorrect) timetables, a cafe, and a toilet. The toilet costs 1km, and you must ask the ticket office for a WiFi code, but they exist. There is also a little shop on the platform. Actually, the more I talk about it, the less enthused I am by Tuzla’s bus station. The city is one of the best connected in Bosnia and Herzegovina, with plenty of options no matter the direction you are going in. There are also international connections to Slovenia, Croatia, Germany, and more. Tuzla’s train station is dead. The city is served by Tuzla International Airport (actually located in Dubrave Gornje, +387 35 302 400), with budget flights to Austria, Germany, Netherlands and Sweden.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Kapija

Tuzla’s Kapija is a gorgeous structure, but you can’t talk about it without talking about the tragedy that happened here on May 25, 1995. On that grim day, a VRS artillery attack killed 71 young people, wounding 240. Almost all of the victims were under the age of 25. They were in the square to celebrate Yugoslavia’s Day of Youth. May 25 is now remembered in Bosnia and Herzegovina as a Day of Sorrow. The Kapija itself is a poignant memorial to the dead, with the inspirational words of Mak Dizdar engraved onto its walls.

Salt Museum

Salt is the best. Disagree? Read Mark Kurlansky’s ‘Salt’ and get back to me. To sum it up, we’d be buggered without it. Tuzla is the City of Salt, you should know that by now, and the Salt Museum (located at the nearby Solana factory) tells that tale. Visits are by appointment only, and everything is in Bosnian and Bosnian alone. Still, the artefacts on display give you the idea. Salt transcends squabbles, so visit this cultural church to learn more. Kind of. Ulica Soli 3, +387 35 282 342

International Portrait Gallery

Before the selfie, there was the self-portrait. My favourite portrait in the world is in this gallery (Charles Beauchamp, Suffolk Hazard), and the floor of faces is just one of three brilliant collections in Tuzla’s International Portrait Gallery. Mevludin Ekmečić (a former director) is showcased on the ground floor, giving way to James Haim Pinto on floor two, with the above portraits (entries into the biennial INTERBITEP) up top. II Tuzlanske brigade 13, +387 35 276 150

Pannonian Lakes

Tuzla is the only city in Europe with a salt lake in its centre, which is good going if you ask me. There is a reason the lakes feature at the front of the city’s tourist materials, and good weather brings crowds and a sense of the sea to the city. What more do you want from me? Wait for the sun, then come to bathe. As the old saying goes, when in Tuzla, do as the Tuzlans.

Trg Sloboda

The biggest city square in Bosnia and Herzegovina has a charming fountain in the middle, some gorgeous buildings showcasing a variety of architectural styles (and serving coffee, ice cream, booze and the rest), some damn good restaurants (table for two, please, Mamma Mia Origins) and two contrasting mosques at its ends.

Meša and Ismet

Artists can talk forever, don’t forget that. Tuzla’s two artistic champions have been locked in conversation on the city’s main pedestrian drag forever (since 1999), exchanging ideas and thoughts and whatever else two creative wonders discuss. Meša Selimović is one of the most influential writers in the Bosnian canon, and the paintings of Ismet Mujezinović still win new fans to this day.

Šetalište Slana

Tuzla’s central sports and recreation is perfect for a quiet summertime stroll, with plenty of shade and many monuments to ponder. The city centre park’s monuments focus on liberation, be it World War II or the most recent war, and the curious architecture of the Peace Flame House makes for a pretty fabulous photo. They also organise events throughout the year.

Museum of East Bosnia

I swear this museum is closed 90% of the time, but those lucky enough to visit when the doors are open are treated to a journey through the history of Eastern Bosnia. There are thousands of artefacts, covering everything from archaeological findings to the 21st century via ethnology, arts and much more. Džindić Mahala 21, +387 35 318 321

Mosques

Tuzla has a roster of fabulous mosques spanning the entire history of Islam in the city. Atik Behram-bey Mosque (Atik Mahala) is the city’s oldest, known as the ‘Colourful Mosque’, for good reasons. It is also eternally under construction, so play that by ear. The Gazi Turali-bey Mosque (Turalibegova) is the most fascinating, as you don’t get many mosques with a pyramid-shaped roof. The Hadži-Hasanova Mosque (Trgovačka) receives the most attention, being on the main square and all that jazz.

Cathedral of the Dormition of the Mother of God

I’m not entirely sure what dormition means, but Tuzla Orthodox Church is a stunner. It sits in the city centre today, but a couple of centuries ago, this was the Serbian Quarter, and this church was built at the end of the 19th century to function as the centre of the community. It is a Neo-Classical piece of work with an understated interior, although the quality of the icons surpasses the quantity. Đorđa Mihajlovića 3, +387 35 364 307

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Tuzla has many good food and drink options, depending on what tickles your fancy. Mama Mia Origins (Trg Slobode bb, +387 61 188 333) is one of my favourite restaurants in the country, focusing mainly on steaks of all shapes and sizes. Limenka (Patriotske liga 24, +387 35 250 800) gets plenty of attention on the ćevapi front, although most places in town are indistinguishable. Čaršijska Česma (Trg žrtava genocida u Srebrenici 2, +387 35 248 408) ticks the traditional box on the main square. The brewery is a good place for food and a better place for beer, which works as a nice segue into the liquid portion of this guide. Just Caffe Pub (Jevrejska 2, +387 62 233 761) eschews an interesting name for good times and drinks, Park Pub (Đorđa Mihajlovića 4, +387 65 496 917) is even better, while Urban BeaTZ (Turalibegova 13, +387 61 855 060) is a magnet for young people and creative types. Coffee-wise, Cafe Sloboda (Solni trg, +387 60 33 03 330) and Coffee Zone (Fra Grge Martića 30, +387 60 33 76 258) are your best bets. The latter is particularly charming, with gorgeous decor and a style of its own.

SLEEPING

Hotel Vertigos (Kulina bana 2, +387 35 258 258) is a sleek and stylish option in the town centre, with friendly staff and comfortable beds. Hotel Mellain (Aleje Alije Izetbegovića 3, +387 35 365 500) is the big fancy spot, and there are also a couple of decent places by the bus station. Tuzla has a wide range of private apartments on the usual booking websites, most of which tick the friendly and functional boxes.

READ MORE

24 Hours in Tuzla

A Delicious City of Salt

With Your Ghost Right Next to Me

TUZLA